[C320-list] Replacement teak hatch boards

[Sean Kaldor]

After doing a beautifully detailed refinishing of my teach hatch boards, and watching it rapidly fade, I decided that the process of researching varnishes, improving the process, etc. etc. wasn't worth the beauty of teak. I quickly realized that there is a reason why there is no other external wood on our C320s. If I had more time, maybe I'd maintain it. But I don't so...

I replaced mine with 3/4" UV resistant HDPE. Went to the local plastics store (Tap Plastics) and picked out white Starboard.

I mapped out the current hatchboard design and had them do all the cutting (31.25" at the top tapering to 25.5" at the bottom, with a total height of 28.75". I also had them cut the board into two sections, the top at 14.25" and the bottom at 14.5". The top and bottom of the overall hatchboards were cut to a 65 degree angle to match the existing joint at the base and the hatch top, and the joint between the two boards was cut at a more steep 50 degrees. Your dimensions may vary!

I originally planned to route out a notch at the bottom, like the teak boards have, to marry to the existing base. But I found that the 3/4" starboard fit nicely without the routed out bit, so I did not do that. Re-installed the same zinc hasp.

Once installed, I've tried kicking in the boards and put all my weight against them, they do not 'give' or bend enough to allow them to simply pop out. I carry my wooden hatch boards in case of serious weather issues. But I suspect these would be more than adequate for 99.9% of the situations I would ever get in to expectedly or unexpectedly.

After a year in use, they are clean, they are strong, there is no chipping or failure, they are more water tight than the wood, and there is no maintenance. Total cost wasn't much ($125-150... I don't recall). But they said the cutting was way more work than they anticipated so your bid may be higher. I personally didn't have to do anything other than research and measure.

Some considerations, had I to do it over again:

1) The boards are somewhat heavy. May have cut it into three rather than two pieces. 

2) The edges are, in a word, "pointy". They don't hurt to touch, but I wouldn't want to drop the point of one (or event the edge of one) on my toe. I also should find a way to secure them so they don't slide around. Currently, I store them under the aft mattress. But if they were to slide from amidships from one side to the other, I'm concerned they may do damage when they hit the fiberglass. Its easy enough to rig up some storage straps.

3) I may have installed a means to secure just the lower hatchboard, to prevent spray during moderate sailing. Could still do this - hasn't been an issue yet.

4) Could have made them about 1/4 taller... maybe 1/2". I should have noticed that my teak hatchboards were just a bit shorter and corrected for that. But this is no different than the factory original, so I'll be happy with that.

I had no need for translucency, but your boat use may dictate otherwise.

Cheers,


Sean
Liberte #499 San Francisco





Message: 10
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2012 14:32:59 -0400
From: Warren Updike <wupdike at hotmail.com>
To: <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Replacement teak hatch boards
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Another club member is a boss woodworker. When I complained about varnish
not holding on the bottoms of the boards where the vertical edges meet the
horizontal board, he told me that no good woodworker would design hatch
boards that way. He said that the right angle joining of grains will never
hold a varnish finish because of expansion/contraction issues.

I'm planning on replacing my boards with pvc board.  Starboard is overkill
in terms of price.  I'm still looking for a source for pvc board.  As I
recall, a width of 10" will do the job.  Any suggestions?

Warren & Pattie Updike
1994 C320 #62 "Warr De Mar"