[C320-list] Teak oil and "crib boards"

[Roland Ross]

Wow, what a dissertation.  Thanks. For the boating season, I use Plexiglas
boards (dark) that I had cut to match the teak boards in size and shape.  I
had notches put into the bottom of 2 middle ones and had the top and bottom
cut to match the original boards.  I keep the teak boards available for the
winter.  The pleiglas does not leak and looks very neat and clean.  Roland
Ross. 

-----Original Message-----
From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
[mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Chris Burti
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2013 10:51 AM
To: C320-List at catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Teak oil and "crib boards"

I'm going to put on my 'wood butcher' hat and share some 'old school'
information about oil finishes.

A lot of teak oil sold today is of low quality and produces inferior
results...this leads to poor performance which, in turn, leads folks to
purchase other easy to use products which though more durable, are often
inferior in appearance.

Good teak oil is often expensive when purchased in marine stores, so most
people will opt for the cheap stuff which has a low percentage of solids and
may not have any UV protection added at all.

The way oil finishes work is that they contain resins (solids) and solvents.
The solvents allow the resins to be applied easily and to penetrate the wood
fibers. When the solvents evaporate, the resins harden leaving a smooth and
relatively durable finish.

It initially takes several applications, drying between coats, to build up a
good finish. Since cheap finishes contain a higher percentage of solvents to
hit a lower price point, it takes many more coats to obtain the same quality
finish as the better products...oops...that  actually makes the cheap stuff
more expensive.

To make matters more confusing, there are better quality brands that are
cheaper than some of the more expensive brands (that are actually just
'cheap stuff'' priced high). Well labeled products will have the percentage
of solids on the label. However, it is pretty easy to compare products that
are packaged in clear bottles. Shake the products enough to produce some
bubbles and you can readily see the difference in viscosity. The products
with thicker fluids will have a higher solids content.
Clean your teak thoroughly. Skip the expensive teak cleaners and use a
household cleaner containing Oxalic acid. This is a strong organic acid that
is a common ingredient in wood bleaches and which does not harm the wood
fibers, (also a great rust and tarnish remover as well). Zud, Bartenders
Friend and Kaboom all work well. Rinse well will fresh water and let dry
thoroughly. Sand smooth if the grain is severely weathered as the grooves
trap dirt. Do not use anything finer than 120 grit sanpaper as finer grits
will close up the wood pores and reduce the penetration of the finish.

 To maintain the finish, wash frequently with mild soap and water and when
the finish starts to fade, apply a fresh coat of oil. This usually means
recoating at least twice a year and quarterly would be best...it is pretty
easy to apply a freshening coat when you maintain it rather than let it go.
If you have any teak attached to Fiberglas, wax the glass before applying
your teak oil and any spills will clean right up.

Now, if you're really cheap or simply want a better product, make your own
teak oil.

Recipe = mix equal parts 1.1.1.

High solids tung oil
Spar varnish (containing UV inhibitors)
Boiled Linseed oil

You can purchase all of these ingredients inexpensively in the paint
department of any big box store.

Fair winds,
Chris Burti
Commitment, #867

On Mon, Feb 4, 2013 at 11:25 PM, Nat Antler <nantler at pacbell.net> wrote:

> FYI: I just took my boards home after securing the hatch with an old 
> piece of plywood and completely removed the original heavy 
> stain/varnish with remover. Then sanded thoroughly to reveal some nice 
> natural teak. I considered Cetol, but decided to oil them with West 
> Marine teak oil. They look fantastic. I'll have to refresh them 
> occasionally, but since they are protected somewhat by the dodger I'm 
> hoping it won't be a problem. It will be easy to keep them oiled up 
> and if I want to Cetol them at some point it won't require removing an
existing finish. Anyone try a similar approach?
>
> Nat,
> 1995 320 "Natiki"
> San Diego




--
Chris Burti
Farmville, NC