[C320-list] Teak oil and "crib boards"

[William Ott]

Well done.  It's just scary what this man knows!
Mike Ott
'Amanda Lu'
#508

Sent from my iPad

On Feb 5, 2013, at 10:51 AM, Chris Burti <clburti at gmail.com> wrote:

> I'm going to put on my 'wood butcher' hat and share some 'old school'
> information about oil finishes.
> 
> A lot of teak oil sold today is of low quality and produces inferior
> results...this leads to poor performance which, in turn, leads folks to
> purchase other easy to use products which though more durable, are
> often inferior in appearance.
> 
> Good teak oil is often expensive when purchased in marine stores, so most
> people will opt for the cheap stuff which has a low percentage of solids
> and may not have any UV protection added at all.
> 
> The way oil finishes work is that they contain resins (solids) and
> solvents. The solvents allow the resins to be applied easily and to
> penetrate the wood fibers. When the solvents evaporate, the resins harden
> leaving a smooth and relatively durable finish.
> 
> It initially takes several applications, drying between coats, to build up
> a good finish. Since cheap finishes contain a higher percentage of solvents
> to hit a lower price point, it takes many more coats to obtain the same
> quality finish as the better products...oops...that  actually makes the
> cheap stuff more expensive.
> 
> To make matters more confusing, there are better quality brands that are
> cheaper than some of the more expensive brands (that are actually just
> 'cheap stuff'' priced high). Well labeled products will have the percentage
> of solids on the label. However, it is pretty easy to compare products that
> are packaged in clear bottles. Shake the products enough to produce some
> bubbles and you can readily see the difference in viscosity. The products
> with thicker fluids will have a higher solids content.
> Clean your teak thoroughly. Skip the expensive teak cleaners and use a
> household cleaner containing Oxalic acid. This is a strong organic acid
> that is a common ingredient in wood bleaches and which does not harm the
> wood fibers, (also a great rust and tarnish remover as well). Zud,
> Bartenders Friend and Kaboom all work well. Rinse well will fresh water and
> let dry thoroughly. Sand smooth if the grain is severely weathered as the
> grooves trap dirt. Do not use anything finer than 120 grit sanpaper
> as finer grits will close up the wood pores and reduce the penetration of
> the finish.
> 
> To maintain the finish, wash frequently with mild soap and water and
> when the finish starts to fade, apply a fresh coat of oil. This usually
> means recoating at least twice a year and quarterly would be best...it is
> pretty easy to apply a freshening coat when you maintain it rather than let
> it go. If you have any teak attached to Fiberglas, wax the glass before
> applying your teak oil and any spills will clean right up.
> 
> Now, if you're really cheap or simply want a better product, make your own
> teak oil.
> 
> Recipe = mix equal parts 1.1.1.
> 
> High solids tung oil
> Spar varnish (containing UV inhibitors)
> Boiled Linseed oil
> 
> You can purchase all of these ingredients inexpensively in the paint
> department of any big box store.
> 
> Fair winds,
> Chris Burti
> Commitment, #867
> 
> On Mon, Feb 4, 2013 at 11:25 PM, Nat Antler <nantler at pacbell.net> wrote:
> 
>> FYI: I just took my boards home after securing the hatch with an old piece
>> of plywood and completely removed the original heavy stain/varnish with
>> remover. Then sanded thoroughly to reveal some nice natural teak. I
>> considered Cetol, but decided to oil them with West Marine teak oil. They
>> look fantastic. I'll have to refresh them occasionally, but since they are
>> protected somewhat by the dodger I'm hoping it won't be a problem. It will
>> be easy to keep them oiled up and if I want to Cetol them at some point it
>> won't require removing an existing finish. Anyone try a similar approach?
>> 
>> Nat,
>> 1995 320 "Natiki"
>> San Diego
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Chris Burti
> Farmville, NC