[C320-list] Teak oil and "crib boards"

[Bruce Heyman]

Thanks!

Bruce Heyman
(949) 289-8400

Chris Burti <clburti at gmail.com> wrote:

>I use oil on ours. With the exception of the tiller on our old Cal T/2 that
>simply had to be varnished in my view and one regretable decision on a teak
>binocular/cup rack that I built before installing the cockpit table
>combination we now have, I abandoned varnish 20 years ago and now strictly
>use oil on teak.
>
>The great thing about oil is:
>1. You don't have to be skilled with a brush to get the same results as
>someone who is.
>2. If you get behind in your maintenance, a good scrub,  a couple of coats
>of oil and you're looking good again with little effort.
>3. You can do it while you're sailing.
>
>If you get behind with varnish, you have a major project on your hands.
>
>If you simply must use varnish on teak there are two things you really
>should do for the best long term results.
>
>1. Because the natural oils in teak prevent good adhesion, anytime that you
>are going to glue or varnish teak, you should wipe it down thoroughly with
>acetone to dry out the surface pores.
>
>2. Your first coat of varnish should be thinned so that it will penetrate
>the wood and form a better bond. The second coat should be applied after
>the first coat is tack free, but not fully hardened.
>Fair winds
>Chris
>On Wed, Feb 6, 2013 at 7:25 AM, Bruce Heyman <bruceheyman at cox.net> wrote:
>
>> Chris,
>> Thanks...I know how discussions on varnish, oil, or cetal on teak can lead
>> to religious wars but would you use the same process you described below on
>> a teak cockpit table?
>> Thanks,
>> Bruce
>> Somerset Dana Point (currently Redondo Beach)
>>
>> Bruce Heyman
>> (949) 289-8400
>>
>> Kaare Wold <sailor3952 at charter.net> wrote:
>>
>> >Very educational and informative.  Thanks for taking the time to publish
>> >this information.
>> >Kaare Wold   Sheet Music #945
>> >----- Original Message -----
>> >From: "Flyingmonkey" <lou at flyingmonkey.im>
>> >To: <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
>> >Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2013 10:03 AM
>> >Subject: Re: [C320-list] Teak oil and "crib boards"
>> >
>> >
>> >Wow! Thank you Chris for sharing that bit of technical wood care
>> knowledge.
>> >I had never given teak oil much thought before. Both interesting and
>> >valuable.
>> >
>> >Thank you,
>> >Lou
>> >
>> >On Feb 5, 2013, at 10:51 AM, Chris Burti <clburti at gmail.com> wrote:
>> >
>> >> I'm going to put on my 'wood butcher' hat and share some 'old school'
>> >> information about oil finishes.
>> >>
>> >> A lot of teak oil sold today is of low quality and produces inferior
>> >> results...this leads to poor performance which, in turn, leads folks to
>> >> purchase other easy to use products which though more durable, are
>> >> often inferior in appearance.
>> >>
>> >> Good teak oil is often expensive when purchased in marine stores, so
>> most
>> >> people will opt for the cheap stuff which has a low percentage of solids
>> >> and may not have any UV protection added at all.
>> >>
>> >> The way oil finishes work is that they contain resins (solids) and
>> >> solvents. The solvents allow the resins to be applied easily and to
>> >> penetrate the wood fibers. When the solvents evaporate, the resins
>> harden
>> >> leaving a smooth and relatively durable finish.
>> >>
>> >> It initially takes several applications, drying between coats, to build
>> up
>> >> a good finish. Since cheap finishes contain a higher percentage of
>> >> solvents
>> >> to hit a lower price point, it takes many more coats to obtain the same
>> >> quality finish as the better products...oops...that  actually makes the
>> >> cheap stuff more expensive.
>> >>
>> >> To make matters more confusing, there are better quality brands that are
>> >> cheaper than some of the more expensive brands (that are actually just
>> >> 'cheap stuff'' priced high). Well labeled products will have the
>> >> percentage
>> >> of solids on the label. However, it is pretty easy to compare products
>> >> that
>> >> are packaged in clear bottles. Shake the products enough to produce some
>> >> bubbles and you can readily see the difference in viscosity. The
>> products
>> >> with thicker fluids will have a higher solids content.
>> >> Clean your teak thoroughly. Skip the expensive teak cleaners and use a
>> >> household cleaner containing Oxalic acid. This is a strong organic acid
>> >> that is a common ingredient in wood bleaches and which does not harm the
>> >> wood fibers, (also a great rust and tarnish remover as well). Zud,
>> >> Bartenders Friend and Kaboom all work well. Rinse well will fresh water
>> >> and
>> >> let dry thoroughly. Sand smooth if the grain is severely weathered as
>> the
>> >> grooves trap dirt. Do not use anything finer than 120 grit sanpaper
>> >> as finer grits will close up the wood pores and reduce the penetration
>> of
>> >> the finish.
>> >>
>> >> To maintain the finish, wash frequently with mild soap and water and
>> >> when the finish starts to fade, apply a fresh coat of oil. This usually
>> >> means recoating at least twice a year and quarterly would be best...it
>> is
>> >> pretty easy to apply a freshening coat when you maintain it rather than
>> >> let
>> >> it go. If you have any teak attached to Fiberglas, wax the glass before
>> >> applying your teak oil and any spills will clean right up.
>> >>
>> >> Now, if you're really cheap or simply want a better product, make your
>> own
>> >> teak oil.
>> >>
>> >> Recipe = mix equal parts 1.1.1.
>> >>
>> >> High solids tung oil
>> >> Spar varnish (containing UV inhibitors)
>> >> Boiled Linseed oil
>> >>
>> >> You can purchase all of these ingredients inexpensively in the paint
>> >> department of any big box store.
>> >>
>> >> Fair winds,
>> >> Chris Burti
>> >> Commitment, #867
>> >>
>> >> On Mon, Feb 4, 2013 at 11:25 PM, Nat Antler <nantler at pacbell.net>
>> wrote:
>> >>
>> >>> FYI: I just took my boards home after securing the hatch with an old
>> >>> piece
>> >>> of plywood and completely removed the original heavy stain/varnish with
>> >>> remover. Then sanded thoroughly to reveal some nice natural teak. I
>> >>> considered Cetol, but decided to oil them with West Marine teak oil.
>> They
>> >>> look fantastic. I'll have to refresh them occasionally, but since they
>> >>> are
>> >>> protected somewhat by the dodger I'm hoping it won't be a problem. It
>> >>> will
>> >>> be easy to keep them oiled up and if I want to Cetol them at some point
>> >>> it
>> >>> won't require removing an existing finish. Anyone try a similar
>> approach?
>> >>>
>> >>> Nat,
>> >>> 1995 320 "Natiki"
>> >>> San Diego
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> --
>> >> Chris Burti
>> >> Farmville, NC
>> >>
>> >
>>
>
>
>
>-- 
>Chris Burti
>Farmville, NC