[C320-list] Teak oil and "crib boards"

[Chris Burti]

I use oil on ours. With the exception of the tiller on our old Cal T/2 that
simply had to be varnished in my view and one regretable decision on a teak
binocular/cup rack that I built before installing the cockpit table
combination we now have, I abandoned varnish 20 years ago and now strictly
use oil on teak.

The great thing about oil is:
1. You don't have to be skilled with a brush to get the same results as
someone who is.
2. If you get behind in your maintenance, a good scrub,  a couple of coats
of oil and you're looking good again with little effort.
3. You can do it while you're sailing.

If you get behind with varnish, you have a major project on your hands.

If you simply must use varnish on teak there are two things you really
should do for the best long term results.

1. Because the natural oils in teak prevent good adhesion, anytime that you
are going to glue or varnish teak, you should wipe it down thoroughly with
acetone to dry out the surface pores.

2. Your first coat of varnish should be thinned so that it will penetrate
the wood and form a better bond. The second coat should be applied after
the first coat is tack free, but not fully hardened.
Fair winds
Chris
On Wed, Feb 6, 2013 at 7:25 AM, Bruce Heyman <bruceheyman at cox.net> wrote:

> Chris,
> Thanks...I know how discussions on varnish, oil, or cetal on teak can lead
> to religious wars but would you use the same process you described below on
> a teak cockpit table?
> Thanks,
> Bruce
> Somerset Dana Point (currently Redondo Beach)
>
> Bruce Heyman
> (949) 289-8400
>
> Kaare Wold <sailor3952 at charter.net> wrote:
>
> >Very educational and informative.  Thanks for taking the time to publish
> >this information.
> >Kaare Wold   Sheet Music #945
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Flyingmonkey" <lou at flyingmonkey.im>
> >To: <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
> >Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2013 10:03 AM
> >Subject: Re: [C320-list] Teak oil and "crib boards"
> >
> >
> >Wow! Thank you Chris for sharing that bit of technical wood care
> knowledge.
> >I had never given teak oil much thought before. Both interesting and
> >valuable.
> >
> >Thank you,
> >Lou
> >
> >On Feb 5, 2013, at 10:51 AM, Chris Burti <clburti at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >> I'm going to put on my 'wood butcher' hat and share some 'old school'
> >> information about oil finishes.
> >>
> >> A lot of teak oil sold today is of low quality and produces inferior
> >> results...this leads to poor performance which, in turn, leads folks to
> >> purchase other easy to use products which though more durable, are
> >> often inferior in appearance.
> >>
> >> Good teak oil is often expensive when purchased in marine stores, so
> most
> >> people will opt for the cheap stuff which has a low percentage of solids
> >> and may not have any UV protection added at all.
> >>
> >> The way oil finishes work is that they contain resins (solids) and
> >> solvents. The solvents allow the resins to be applied easily and to
> >> penetrate the wood fibers. When the solvents evaporate, the resins
> harden
> >> leaving a smooth and relatively durable finish.
> >>
> >> It initially takes several applications, drying between coats, to build
> up
> >> a good finish. Since cheap finishes contain a higher percentage of
> >> solvents
> >> to hit a lower price point, it takes many more coats to obtain the same
> >> quality finish as the better products...oops...that  actually makes the
> >> cheap stuff more expensive.
> >>
> >> To make matters more confusing, there are better quality brands that are
> >> cheaper than some of the more expensive brands (that are actually just
> >> 'cheap stuff'' priced high). Well labeled products will have the
> >> percentage
> >> of solids on the label. However, it is pretty easy to compare products
> >> that
> >> are packaged in clear bottles. Shake the products enough to produce some
> >> bubbles and you can readily see the difference in viscosity. The
> products
> >> with thicker fluids will have a higher solids content.
> >> Clean your teak thoroughly. Skip the expensive teak cleaners and use a
> >> household cleaner containing Oxalic acid. This is a strong organic acid
> >> that is a common ingredient in wood bleaches and which does not harm the
> >> wood fibers, (also a great rust and tarnish remover as well). Zud,
> >> Bartenders Friend and Kaboom all work well. Rinse well will fresh water
> >> and
> >> let dry thoroughly. Sand smooth if the grain is severely weathered as
> the
> >> grooves trap dirt. Do not use anything finer than 120 grit sanpaper
> >> as finer grits will close up the wood pores and reduce the penetration
> of
> >> the finish.
> >>
> >> To maintain the finish, wash frequently with mild soap and water and
> >> when the finish starts to fade, apply a fresh coat of oil. This usually
> >> means recoating at least twice a year and quarterly would be best...it
> is
> >> pretty easy to apply a freshening coat when you maintain it rather than
> >> let
> >> it go. If you have any teak attached to Fiberglas, wax the glass before
> >> applying your teak oil and any spills will clean right up.
> >>
> >> Now, if you're really cheap or simply want a better product, make your
> own
> >> teak oil.
> >>
> >> Recipe = mix equal parts 1.1.1.
> >>
> >> High solids tung oil
> >> Spar varnish (containing UV inhibitors)
> >> Boiled Linseed oil
> >>
> >> You can purchase all of these ingredients inexpensively in the paint
> >> department of any big box store.
> >>
> >> Fair winds,
> >> Chris Burti
> >> Commitment, #867
> >>
> >> On Mon, Feb 4, 2013 at 11:25 PM, Nat Antler <nantler at pacbell.net>
> wrote:
> >>
> >>> FYI: I just took my boards home after securing the hatch with an old
> >>> piece
> >>> of plywood and completely removed the original heavy stain/varnish with
> >>> remover. Then sanded thoroughly to reveal some nice natural teak. I
> >>> considered Cetol, but decided to oil them with West Marine teak oil.
> They
> >>> look fantastic. I'll have to refresh them occasionally, but since they
> >>> are
> >>> protected somewhat by the dodger I'm hoping it won't be a problem. It
> >>> will
> >>> be easy to keep them oiled up and if I want to Cetol them at some point
> >>> it
> >>> won't require removing an existing finish. Anyone try a similar
> approach?
> >>>
> >>> Nat,
> >>> 1995 320 "Natiki"
> >>> San Diego
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> --
> >> Chris Burti
> >> Farmville, NC
> >>
> >
>



-- 
Chris Burti
Farmville, NC