[C320-list] Yanmar engine Throttle Adjustment

Sat May 18 13:09:15 PDT 2013

A search of the list archives yields much past discussion on this topic.

Here is a good write up of the solution from Allan Field...
http://lists.catalina320.com/htdig.cgi/c320-list-catalina320.com/2006-April/013443.html

Anyone can search the archives by going here...
http://lists.catalina320.com/pipermail/c320-list-catalina320.com/
Try it.... after over 7 years of owner discussions, usually the problem and
solution have been discussed before.

Karl

On Sat, May 18, 2013 at 3:07 PM, <millers1 at aol.com> wrote:

>
> My engine throttle slowly creep/slips back  from higher RPM settings to
> about 2500rpm.
> I see no readily apparent way to adjust (increase ) the engine throttle
> drag.  Has anyone had this
> problem and how was it corrected??? A small bungee cord works....... but...
>
> Art Liberty  #680
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gene Helfman <genehelfman at gmail.com>
> To: C320-List <C320-List at catalina320.com>
> Sent: Sat, May 18, 2013 2:53 pm
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Removing the Maxwell 500
>
>
> Thanks, Scott.  That's exactly what I needed to know.  I managed to get a
> Maxwell rep on the phone who basically said the same thing.  I had tried
> prying the old drum off with a screw driver with no luck.  He suggested
> banging on several wooden wedges spaced around the drum base after blasting
> the drum with a heat gun.  I'm waiting for the rain to stop to give that a
> try.  Also, removing the cir-clips that hold the drum shaft in place is
> supposed to ease the removal process.
>
> I've spent a couple of hours on my back in the V-berth.  We finally decided
> to remove a one foot by one foot section of the non-structural  fiberglass
> wall to which the plywood attaches to increase access to the area where the
> windlass gear box, etc live.  This gave more working room for playing with
> the old unit and should make installation of the new windlass easier.  I
> will probably use the removed section for beefing up the outer attachment
> area for the new windlass since it has a larger footprint than the old 500.
>
> gene
>
>
> On Fri, May 17, 2013 at 3:34 PM, Scott Thompson <surprise at thompson87.com
> >wrote:
>
> > These links to documents I put on the Association website a long time ago
> > might be helpful:
> >
> > Exploded parts view: http://www.catalina320.com/**
> > filemgmt/index.php?id=112<
> http://www.catalina320.com/filemgmt/index.php?id=112>
> > Manual: http://www.catalina320.com/**filemgmt/index.php?id=113<
> http://www.catalina320.com/filemgmt/index.php?id=113>
> >
> > The former is for the VC500 model (no chain gypsy) and the latter is for
> > the VW500 model, which includes a chain gypsy, but my understanding is
> that
> > the drum assembly is the same on both models. The VW500 model has a
> longer
> > shaft and a few extra parts. Based on your description I suspect you have
> > the VC500.
> >
> > I believe that the drum should NOT turn when rotated with a pipe wrench
> > because it is keyed to the shaft and shaft rotation is more or less
> > impossible because of the use of a worm gear in the transmission. But
> > rotating it is not required for removal. Rather you need to move it off
> the
> > shaft without rotating it, i.e. by moving it parallel to the shaft and
> > internal key. In other words, it should just slide off the shaft. If the
> > drum won't move parallel to the shaft there could be internal corrosion
> or
> > sand preventing it from sliding on the shaft.
> >
> > What I would do is insert a lever (try a large screwdriver at first)
> > between the drum and mounting plate and try to pry the drum away from the
> > mounting plate. If that fails try levering in more than one place, or
> get a
> > bigger lever. When it moves, it will probably give all at once, so
> arrange
> > for some protection of the gelcoat in case it goes flying off the shaft
> > with gusto. Also avoid using the fiberglass itself as a fulcrum. You want
> > the intense point-loading to be entirely metal to metal.
> >
> > I don't think it is possible to remove the windlass in one piece, or to
> > remove it without first removing the drum, even with a willingness to do
> > damage to the windlass. The problem is that the motor / transmission is
> on
> > one side of the bulkhead but is bolted to the mounting plate on the other
> > side, and the bolts are hidden by the drum. You need to remove the drum,
> > then the bolts holding the motor, then the motor itself (which requires
> > access to the rear, obtained by removing the plywood panel from the front
> > of the V-berth and then lying on your back looking upward), and only then
> > the mounting plate.
> >
> > Been there.
> >
> > Scott Thompson
> > Surprise, #653
> >
> >
> > On 5/16/2013 10:27 PM, Gene Helfman wrote:
> >
> >> We've decided to replace our non-functional Maxwell 500 (1997 c320)
> with a
> >> newer, larger model with a chainwheel, the Maxwell VW10.  I'm now trying
> >> to
> >> get the old 500 out and am stuck.  Does anyone know how to remove the
> rope
> >> drum?  I've taken off the outer cap, screw, and washer and can't figure
> >> out
> >> what to do next.  It doesn't help that the drum appears to be frozen in
> >> place and can't be rotated, even with a pipe wrench.  I'm not afraid of
> >> breaking things if necessary, although if I can get the whole thing off
> >> the
> >> boat in one piece I'd be happy to offer it up to anyone gratis for spare
> >> parts.
> >>
> >> gene
> >>
> >> *Satori*, #398
> >>
> >>
> >
>
>
> --
> Gene Helfman, Professor Emeritus
> Odum School of Ecology, University of Georgia
> PERMANENT address:
>     498 Shoreland Dr., Lopez Is., WA 98261
>     (360) 468-2136
>     genehelfman at gmail.com
>
> "You noticed nobody gives a damn about beached minnows."
>
>
>