[C320-list] Yanmar engine Throttle Adjustment

[Arthur Miller]

Karl,
Thanks.  So that's where they hid the adjustment!    Art

Sent from my iPad

On May 18, 2013, at 4:09 PM, Karl Mielenhausen <kmielen at suddenlink.net> wrote:

> A search of the list archives yields much past discussion on this topic.
> 
> Here is a good write up of the solution from Allan Field...
> http://lists.catalina320.com/htdig.cgi/c320-list-catalina320.com/2006-April/013443.html
> 
> Anyone can search the archives by going here...
> http://lists.catalina320.com/pipermail/c320-list-catalina320.com/
> Try it.... after over 7 years of owner discussions, usually the problem and
> solution have been discussed before.
> 
> Karl
> 
> On Sat, May 18, 2013 at 3:07 PM, <millers1 at aol.com> wrote:
> 
>> 
>> My engine throttle slowly creep/slips back  from higher RPM settings to
>> about 2500rpm.
>> I see no readily apparent way to adjust (increase ) the engine throttle
>> drag.  Has anyone had this
>> problem and how was it corrected??? A small bungee cord works....... but...
>> 
>> Art Liberty  #680
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Gene Helfman <genehelfman at gmail.com>
>> To: C320-List <C320-List at catalina320.com>
>> Sent: Sat, May 18, 2013 2:53 pm
>> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Removing the Maxwell 500
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks, Scott.  That's exactly what I needed to know.  I managed to get a
>> Maxwell rep on the phone who basically said the same thing.  I had tried
>> prying the old drum off with a screw driver with no luck.  He suggested
>> banging on several wooden wedges spaced around the drum base after blasting
>> the drum with a heat gun.  I'm waiting for the rain to stop to give that a
>> try.  Also, removing the cir-clips that hold the drum shaft in place is
>> supposed to ease the removal process.
>> 
>> I've spent a couple of hours on my back in the V-berth.  We finally decided
>> to remove a one foot by one foot section of the non-structural  fiberglass
>> wall to which the plywood attaches to increase access to the area where the
>> windlass gear box, etc live.  This gave more working room for playing with
>> the old unit and should make installation of the new windlass easier.  I
>> will probably use the removed section for beefing up the outer attachment
>> area for the new windlass since it has a larger footprint than the old 500.
>> 
>> gene
>> 
>> 
>> On Fri, May 17, 2013 at 3:34 PM, Scott Thompson <surprise at thompson87.com
>>> wrote:
>> 
>>> These links to documents I put on the Association website a long time ago
>>> might be helpful:
>>> 
>>> Exploded parts view: http://www.catalina320.com/**
>>> filemgmt/index.php?id=112<
>> http://www.catalina320.com/filemgmt/index.php?id=112>
>>> Manual: http://www.catalina320.com/**filemgmt/index.php?id=113<
>> http://www.catalina320.com/filemgmt/index.php?id=113>
>>> 
>>> The former is for the VC500 model (no chain gypsy) and the latter is for
>>> the VW500 model, which includes a chain gypsy, but my understanding is
>> that
>>> the drum assembly is the same on both models. The VW500 model has a
>> longer
>>> shaft and a few extra parts. Based on your description I suspect you have
>>> the VC500.
>>> 
>>> I believe that the drum should NOT turn when rotated with a pipe wrench
>>> because it is keyed to the shaft and shaft rotation is more or less
>>> impossible because of the use of a worm gear in the transmission. But
>>> rotating it is not required for removal. Rather you need to move it off
>> the
>>> shaft without rotating it, i.e. by moving it parallel to the shaft and
>>> internal key. In other words, it should just slide off the shaft. If the
>>> drum won't move parallel to the shaft there could be internal corrosion
>> or
>>> sand preventing it from sliding on the shaft.
>>> 
>>> What I would do is insert a lever (try a large screwdriver at first)
>>> between the drum and mounting plate and try to pry the drum away from the
>>> mounting plate. If that fails try levering in more than one place, or
>> get a
>>> bigger lever. When it moves, it will probably give all at once, so
>> arrange
>>> for some protection of the gelcoat in case it goes flying off the shaft
>>> with gusto. Also avoid using the fiberglass itself as a fulcrum. You want
>>> the intense point-loading to be entirely metal to metal.
>>> 
>>> I don't think it is possible to remove the windlass in one piece, or to
>>> remove it without first removing the drum, even with a willingness to do
>>> damage to the windlass. The problem is that the motor / transmission is
>> on
>>> one side of the bulkhead but is bolted to the mounting plate on the other
>>> side, and the bolts are hidden by the drum. You need to remove the drum,
>>> then the bolts holding the motor, then the motor itself (which requires
>>> access to the rear, obtained by removing the plywood panel from the front
>>> of the V-berth and then lying on your back looking upward), and only then
>>> the mounting plate.
>>> 
>>> Been there.
>>> 
>>> Scott Thompson
>>> Surprise, #653
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On 5/16/2013 10:27 PM, Gene Helfman wrote:
>>> 
>>>> We've decided to replace our non-functional Maxwell 500 (1997 c320)
>> with a
>>>> newer, larger model with a chainwheel, the Maxwell VW10.  I'm now trying
>>>> to
>>>> get the old 500 out and am stuck.  Does anyone know how to remove the
>> rope
>>>> drum?  I've taken off the outer cap, screw, and washer and can't figure
>>>> out
>>>> what to do next.  It doesn't help that the drum appears to be frozen in
>>>> place and can't be rotated, even with a pipe wrench.  I'm not afraid of
>>>> breaking things if necessary, although if I can get the whole thing off
>>>> the
>>>> boat in one piece I'd be happy to offer it up to anyone gratis for spare
>>>> parts.
>>>> 
>>>> gene
>>>> 
>>>> *Satori*, #398
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> Gene Helfman, Professor Emeritus
>> Odum School of Ecology, University of Georgia
>> PERMANENT address:
>>    498 Shoreland Dr., Lopez Is., WA 98261
>>    (360) 468-2136
>>    genehelfman at gmail.com
>> 
>> "You noticed nobody gives a damn about beached minnows."
>> 
>> 
>>