[C320-list] Yanmar engine Throttle Adjustment

Sat May 18 15:24:43 PDT 2013

This is usually a recurring problem but the fix by removing he compass etc is not difficult and the proper way to do it (at least yearly in my case). The alternative and a little easier for a quick fix is to put a U bolt on the throttle cable where it is accessible through the aft cabin access to the engine thru hull and tighten it down until there is enough friction between the plastic cover and the actual cable so it doesn't slip. I actually think Edson sells this part in SS but I just used a galvanized one from the hardware store. I keep one handy for a quick fix until I get around to taking the compass off etc.  

Jim Brown

________________________________
 From: Arthur Miller <millers1 at aol.com>
To: "C320-List at Catalina320.com" <C320-List at Catalina320.com> 
Sent: Saturday, May 18, 2013 4:34 PM
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Yanmar engine Throttle Adjustment

Karl,
Thanks.  So that's where they hid the adjustment!    Art

Sent from my iPad

On May 18, 2013, at 4:09 PM, Karl Mielenhausen <kmielen at suddenlink.net> wrote:

> A search of the list archives yields much past discussion on this topic.
> 
> Here is a good write up of the solution from Allan Field...
> http://lists.catalina320.com/htdig.cgi/c320-list-catalina320.com/2006-April/013443.html
> 
> Anyone can search the archives by going here...
> http://lists.catalina320.com/pipermail/c320-list-catalina320.com/
> Try it.... after over 7 years of owner discussions, usually the problem and
> solution have been discussed before.
> 
> Karl
> 
> On Sat, May 18, 2013 at 3:07 PM, <millers1 at aol.com> wrote:
> 
>> 
>> My engine throttle slowly creep/slips back  from higher RPM settings to
>> about 2500rpm.
>> I see no readily apparent way to adjust (increase ) the engine throttle
>> drag.  Has anyone had this
>> problem and how was it corrected??? A small bungee cord works....... but...
>> 
>> Art Liberty  #680
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Gene Helfman <genehelfman at gmail.com>
>> To: C320-List <C320-List at catalina320.com>
>> Sent: Sat, May 18, 2013 2:53 pm
>> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Removing the Maxwell 500
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks, Scott.  That's exactly what I needed to know.  I managed to get a
>> Maxwell rep on the phone who basically said the same thing.  I had tried
>> prying the old drum off with a screw driver with no luck.  He suggested
>> banging on several wooden wedges spaced around the drum base after blasting
>> the drum with a heat gun.  I'm waiting for the rain to stop to give that a
>> try.  Also, removing the cir-clips that hold the drum shaft in place is
>> supposed to ease the removal process.
>> 
>> I've spent a couple of hours on my back in the V-berth.  We finally decided
>> to remove a one foot by one foot section of the non-structural  fiberglass
>> wall to which the plywood attaches to increase access to the area where the
>> windlass gear box, etc live.  This gave more working room for playing with
>> the old unit and should make installation of the new windlass easier.  I
>> will probably use the removed section for beefing up the outer attachment
>> area for the new windlass since it has a larger footprint than the old 500.
>> 
>> gene
>> 
>> 
>> On Fri, May 17, 2013 at 3:34 PM, Scott Thompson <surprise at thompson87.com
>>> wrote:
>> 
>>> These links to documents I put on the Association website a long time ago
>>> might be helpful:
>>> 
>>> Exploded parts view: http://www.catalina320.com/**
>>> filemgmt/index.php?id=112<
>> http://www.catalina320.com/filemgmt/index.php?id=112>
>>> Manual: http://www.catalina320.com/**filemgmt/index.php?id=113<
>> http://www.catalina320.com/filemgmt/index.php?id=113>
>>> 
>>> The former is for the VC500 model (no chain gypsy) and the latter is for
>>> the VW500 model, which includes a chain gypsy, but my understanding is
>> that
>>> the drum assembly is the same on both models. The VW500 model has a
>> longer
>>> shaft and a few extra parts. Based on your description I suspect you have
>>> the VC500.
>>> 
>>> I believe that the drum should NOT turn when rotated with a pipe wrench
>>> because it is keyed to the shaft and shaft rotation is more or less
>>> impossible because of the use of a worm gear in the transmission. But
>>> rotating it is not required for removal. Rather you need to move it off
>> the
>>> shaft without rotating it, i.e. by moving it parallel to the shaft and
>>> internal key. In other words, it should just slide off the shaft. If the
>>> drum won't move parallel to the shaft there could be internal corrosion
>> or
>>> sand preventing it from sliding on the shaft.
>>> 
>>> What I would do is insert a lever (try a large screwdriver at first)
>>> between the drum and mounting plate and try to pry the drum away from the
>>> mounting plate. If that fails try levering in more than one place, or
>> get a
>>> bigger lever. When it moves, it will probably give all at once, so
>> arrange
>>> for some protection of the gelcoat in case it goes flying off the shaft
>>> with gusto. Also avoid using the fiberglass itself as a fulcrum. You want
>>> the intense point-loading to be entirely metal to metal.
>>> 
>>> I don't think it is possible to remove the windlass in one piece, or to
>>> remove it without first removing the drum, even with a willingness to do
>>> damage to the windlass. The problem is that the motor / transmission is
>> on
>>> one side of the bulkhead but is bolted to the mounting plate on the other
>>> side, and the bolts are hidden by the drum. You need to remove the drum,
>>> then the bolts holding the motor, then the motor itself (which requires
>>> access to the rear, obtained by removing the plywood panel from the front
>>> of the V-berth and then lying on your back looking upward), and only then
>>> the mounting plate.
>>> 
>>> Been there.
>>> 
>>> Scott Thompson
>>> Surprise, #653
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On 5/16/2013 10:27 PM, Gene Helfman wrote:
>>> 
>>>> We've decided to replace our non-functional Maxwell 500 (1997 c320)
>> with a
>>>> newer, larger model with a chainwheel, the Maxwell VW10.  I'm now trying
>>>> to
>>>> get the old 500 out and am stuck.  Does anyone know how to remove the
>> rope
>>>> drum?  I've taken off the outer cap, screw, and washer and can't figure
>>>> out
>>>> what to do next.  It doesn't help that the drum appears to be frozen in
>>>> place and can't be rotated, even with a pipe wrench.  I'm not afraid of
>>>> breaking things if necessary, although if I can get the whole thing off
>>>> the
>>>> boat in one piece I'd be happy to offer it up to anyone gratis for spare
>>>> parts.
>>>> 
>>>> gene
>>>> 
>>>> *Satori*, #398
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> Gene Helfman, Professor Emeritus
>> Odum School of Ecology, University of Georgia
>> PERMANENT address:
>>    498 Shoreland Dr., Lopez Is., WA 98261
>>    (360) 468-2136
>>    genehelfman at gmail.com
>> 
>> "You noticed nobody gives a damn about beached minnows."
>> 
>> 
>> 