[C320-list] Dry bilge?

[Robert Sloat]

Been away from the action for a while.  Agree with Jeff on the GFO solution.  As I have said many times in the past on posts, the best $15 investment ever made on my hull 894 (2002) was the Gortex GFO packing.  I replaced the OEM packing with the GFO and bilge has been dry since installation which is about 10 seasons.  After launch in the spring readjust the packing gland in the slip after a few minutes underway with the engine on to no drip and that is all.  Occasionally feel the packing gland after motoring and it is just a little warm and no drips.  Maybe this spring will replace the GFO out of prudence.  I still have some left from the original purchase. Check out http://gfopacking.com/ <http://gfopacking.com/>
  
Bob Sloat
Savannah 894 (2002)
Waukegan Harbor, IL

> On Nov 25, 2014, at 2:02 PM, Jeff Hare <Catalina at thehares.com> wrote:
> 
> Not that there isn't already enough things going on in this topic... :)   My
> first hand experiences are:
> 
>       PSS Shaft Seal:
> I had the older style non-vented PSS installed for 6 years.  Worked fine,
> pretty dry, but burping it did let a few drops dribble in.  This could
> result in black water carbon spray line across muffler, floor and the boards
> above, so if you have a PSS, always be sure to replace the boards before
> revving the prop after burping.  You could (like Al Ahlman discovered) end
> up with a nice black line across your aft cabin roof.  The PSS set screws
> don't need much bite to hold the SS ring in place, but would bite and hold
> better in Bronze than SS if anything.  Best bet is to clamp on a doughnut
> zinc to back up the SS PSS Shaft ring.  This is helpful for two reasons.  1)
> in case a set screw doesn't grab well, the bellows can't cause the ring to
> creep away over time.  2) If you need to add more pressure to the between
> the carbon block and the SS ring, this will give you a nice reference point
> and something solid to gently pry against when making fine adjustments to
> the pressure.  
> 
> I also got the new vented PSS upgrade kit shipped to me for free (but never
> used it).  Still have it new in the box, along with my original PSS which is
> still in fine shape.
> 
>    SS Prop Shaft:
> Upgrading the prop shaft from Bronze to SS is recommended when you upgrade
> your prop to a heavier folding or feathering version.  Other than that, no
> real need to replace the bronze with SS (especially just for a PSS).  Newer
> boats all have SS from the factory anyway.
> 
> The Prop shaft is easily removed without dropping the rudder, but you have
> to remove the stuffing box/PSS AND the cutlass bearing first in order to get
> enough side to side deflection to clear the rudder.  It scrapes buy barely
> but it does with a bit of effort.  I've personally done this twice myself
> (two different C320s).  If I can do it, any bozo can.
> 
>     Gortex GFO Packing:
> I have been using the GFO Packing instead of the PSS for 7 years now.  The
> drain hole leading under the engine pan has a small piece of duct tape over
> it so nothing drains to the bilge.  The GFO has run quiet, cool and really
> 100% dripless since then. The only time I need to mop water out of that
> section is when I empty the junk from my raw water strainer and forget to
> use a Ziploc baggie around it to contain the spills.
> 
> All things being equal, I like the stability and simplicity of the
> traditional Stuffing box with GFO more than I did the PSS.  It also provides
> a third point in between the coupling and the cutlass bearing to help
> prevent shaft whip or oscillations. 
> 
> With the vented version, be sure that when revving it or moving in reverse
> that back pressure doesn't cause the water to squirt out the top of the vent
> hose.  I've seen that happen first hand also and was really surprised even
> though it was led well above the water line.  I suppose it was because it
> was such a small diameter hose it didn't take much pressure to force water
> up a couple feet like a little mini fountain.  Not much water, but way more
> than just a few drops.
> 
> Cheers!
> -Jeff Hare #809
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: C320-list [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf
> Of Allan S Field
> Sent: Monday, November 24, 2014 9:21 PM
> To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Dry bilge?
> 
> Martin - I think what was said about the rudder was that it did not need to
> be dropped and the shaft didn't have to be removed to install the PYY shaft
> seal.  But if changing out the shaft, I would imagine the rudder would need
> to be dropped. - Allan
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: C320-list [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf
> Of Martin Rosenberg
> Sent: Monday, November 24, 2014 8:57 PM
> To: C320-List at catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Dry bilge?
> 
> Sliding the shaft back a ways and removing the Shaft coupling to install the
> PSS is a LOT LESS work that removing the shaft (and then probably the
> cutless bearing). Someone on the list said that the rudder does not have to
> be dropped to remove the shaft although I really don't see how the alignment
> will allow it. Then 'they' say that the coupling should be reground and
> fitted to the new shaft.
> Martin Rosenberg
> Avalon  #823
> 
> On Mon, Nov 24, 2014 at 7:52 PM, Pat Ireland <cherie320 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
>> Just a thought - there might be valid logic in replacing the bronze 
>> with stainless, considering that the process of installing the PSS 
>> requires partial removal of the shaft.  So, if you are in for a penny, 
>> why not spring for the whole pound.  Same might be said for engine 
>> mounts, cutlass bearing, and prop.  But then again, there might not be 
>> quite enough ink in the pen to write the check for that bill.  Cheers 
>> Pat, 801
>> 
>> On Mon, Nov 24, 2014 at 4:21 PM, Allan S Field 
>> <allan.field at verizon.net>
>> wrote:
>> 
>>> My Question to PYY:  I have a Catalina 320 sailing vessel. There is 
>>> "chatter" on our list-serve that if installing a PSS shaft seal, one
>> should
>>> change out their bronze shaft for stainless steel.  Just wondering 
>>> if
>> there
>>> is any science behind this recommendation and what PYI recommends.  
>>> Thank you!
>>> 
>>> PYY Answer:  Hi Allan,
>>> 
>>> This is false information and there are no issues what-so-ever 
>>> installing the PSS Shaft Seal on a Bronze shaft. It's been happening 
>>> for nearly 30 years now.
>>> 
>>> Hope this helps and please let me know if there is anything else you
>> need.
>>> 
>>> Best regards,
>>> 
>>> Justin S. Romesburg
>>> Director of International Sales
>>> PYI Inc. / Seaview
>>> 
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: C320-list [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On 
>>> Behalf Of Doug Treff
>>> Sent: Monday, November 24, 2014 7:50 AM
>>> To: c320-list at lists.catalina320.com
>>> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Dry bilge?
>>> 
>>> CORRECTION - my mechanic recommended that I replace my bronze shaft 
>>> with stainless when I get the PSS installed.
>>> 
>>> ---
>>> Doug Treff
>>> doug at treff.us
>>> 
>>> On 2014-11-22 10:35, pat reynolds wrote:
>>>> I agree with Allan on the pss shaft. I replaced my original 
>>>> because the company recommended a change every so many years.  The 
>>>> original bellows looked fine when I removed it.  As far as the 
>>>> mechanics suggestion that a bronze shaft be used, I can only think 
>>>> that that was because bronze is softer than stainless and the set 
>>>> screws might hold better.  A poor suggestion since I replaced my 
>>>> original bronze shaft with stainless after getting a line caught
> around it and bending it.
>>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>