[C320-list] Weep Holes

[clburti at gmail.com]

Keep applying the PB Blaster, patience…mixed reports on removing to the side of the rudder, but you should be able to do so…if you have removed the cutless bearing you can definitely do so.






Fair Winds
Chris Burti
Commitment
Catalina 320, #867





From: Martin Rosenberg
Sent: ‎Sunday‎, ‎March‎ ‎23‎, ‎2014 ‎8‎:‎02‎ ‎PM
To: 320





Chris,
  Thanks. I've used FreezeOff, PB Blaster and another one (I forgot the
name) but it hasn't budged at all. I ordered a flange tool from Buck
Algonquin that I'm hoping will help. If that doesn't do it then I'll have
to cut it off. I haven't checked yet but do you know if the shaft can be
removed without dropping the rudder?
Martin


On Sun, Mar 23, 2014 at 7:48 PM, <clburti at gmail.com> wrote:

> If you haven't thry P-B Blaster...it is a far more effective penetrating
> solvent than anything that I know of and it is what is commonly used to
> loosen a coupling. It takes patience. Apply, let soak over a couple of days
> re-applying repeatedly.
>
>
> Be very careful to avoid getting the solvent on the rear tranny seal...does
> not play nice with seals.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Fair Winds
> Chris Burti
> Commitment
> Catalina 320, #867
>
>
>
>
>
> From: Martin Rosenberg
> Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 6:33 PM
> To: 320
>
>
>
>
>
> A word of warning. Removing the connecting flange from the prop shaft to
> install a drip-less shaft seal will not be a picnic on a 20 year old boat.
> I've been working on the same project for a few weeks now and getting
> extremely frustrated - and my boat is a 2001. If I can't get the flange off
> cleanly then I will have to cut it off and buy a new one. That will require
> having the new flange ground square and will require removing the prop and
> shaft from the boat. You're right, if the project is to be done then this
> is the time but it may open a new can of worms AND money.
> Martin Rosenberg
> 2001 "Avalon"   #823
>
>
> On Sun, Mar 23, 2014 at 5:42 PM, Dick Walker <dickwalker at att.net> wrote:
>
> > You can keep a dry bildge if you invest in a drip less shaft desk.
> >
> > A great idea if you are pulling the boat anyway for a cutless bearing
> >
> > WindWalker II has had a drip less shaft seal since new
> >
> >
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Dick Walker
> > WindWalker II  # 687
> > 740 Olive Ave.
> > Coronado ,CA 92118
> > 619.435.8986
> >
> >
> >
> > > On Mar 23, 2014, at 13:56, "WINDER & KIRONDE" <wcwinder at comcast.net>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > When we bought our boat last year there were several 1 1/2 inch holes
> > > drilled in the transverse stringers.  It should be noted that these
> > > hollow stringers are also drilled for wiring - maybe post production -
> > > I do not know.  The previous owner apparently had a problem with
> > > mildew or mold under the sole section that wraps the galley sink base
> > > on the port side.  We stuck the business end of our wet/dry vacuum as
> > > far into the hole as possible and sucked out at least 2 gallons of
> > > water from between the hull liner/stringers and the hull. From the
> > > dirty waterline at the base of these large holes it was apparent that
> > > the water had over time risen to the bottom of the holes and then
> > > started to go into the space between the hull and the hull liner.
> > >
> > > The problem:  What good is it to drill weep holes if the water is just
> > > going to drain into the space between the hull and liner?  The only
> > > solution I can think of is to drill a hole near the bottom of the
> > > stringer and then install a 1/2" or 3/4" tube or PVC pipe to transport
> > > the water from one section to the other.  It is hard to believe that
> > > Catalina would create this problem in the first place.
> > >
> > > Bill Winder
> > > INDIGO
> > > C320 1994 #97
> > >
> > >
> >
>