[C320-list] Weep Holes / Seperating Couplers

[Martin Rosenberg]

The problem is getting the shaft out of the coupler. I'm going to try a
home-made mixture of automatic transmission fluid and acetone (50-50) I
have read a number of times that it is incredibly effective compared to PB
Blaster. The boat is in saltwater so that might have made it more difficult
to remove.
Martin


On Sun, Mar 23, 2014 at 8:55 PM, Rick Sulewski <rsulewski at bex.net> wrote:

> Just curious about where the coupling is most likely to be frozen, is it a
> problem splitting the coupler or is it getting the prop shaft out of the
> coupler? I am going to change out the rubber hose between the prop shaft
> hull tube and the packing nut assembly since I am methodically replacing
> all of the engine/water/exhaust hoses (my hull is almost 20 years old).
>  Also wondering if the issue with frozen couplers is more likely to be a
> salt water issue than a fresh water problem since I have not had any issues
> with separating the couplers when I align and adjust the engine mounts to
> the prop shaft couplers to reduce stuffing box packing from dripping due to
> excessive packing wear.
>
> I also understood that I could have parted the prop shaft from the coupler
> last year when I replaced the cutlass bearing by using the wheel puller to
> pull the prop at the same time if I had first loosened the friction bolts
> securing the prop shaft to the packing side coupler.  Instead, I  decided
> to replace the packing shaft hose this spring. I understand that one of the
> tricks to separate the prop shaft from the coupler is to split the coupler
> and then place a small nut (smaller than the diameter of the shaft) between
> the couplers and then slowly tighten the coupler bolts (placing some
> tension on the prop shaft as  the 2 flanges are drawn together). It was
> explained to me that a small amount of force should push out the prop shaft
> to where the prop shaft coupler may then be removed (need to have a short
> line tied between the prop and the strut to keep the  prop from hitting the
> rudder when the prop shaft  separates from the coupler).
>
> Rick
> 95' hull #277
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com [mailto:
> c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of clburti at gmail.com
> Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 7:48 PM
> To: 320
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Weep Holes
>
> If you haven't thry P-B Blaster...it is a far more effective penetrating
> solvent than anything that I know of and it is what is commonly used to
> loosen a coupling. It takes patience. Apply, let soak over a couple of days
> re-applying repeatedly.
>
>
> Be very careful to avoid getting the solvent on the rear tranny seal...does
> not play nice with seals.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Fair Winds
> Chris Burti
> Commitment
> Catalina 320, #867
>
>
>
>
>
> From: Martin Rosenberg
> Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 6:33 PM
> To: 320
>
>
>
>
>
> A word of warning. Removing the connecting flange from the prop shaft to
> install a drip-less shaft seal will not be a picnic on a 20 year old boat.
> I've been working on the same project for a few weeks now and getting
> extremely frustrated - and my boat is a 2001. If I can't get the flange off
> cleanly then I will have to cut it off and buy a new one. That will require
> having the new flange ground square and will require removing the prop and
> shaft from the boat. You're right, if the project is to be done then this
> is the time but it may open a new can of worms AND money.
> Martin Rosenberg
> 2001 "Avalon"   #823
>
>
> On Sun, Mar 23, 2014 at 5:42 PM, Dick Walker <dickwalker at att.net> wrote:
>
> > You can keep a dry bildge if you invest in a drip less shaft desk.
> >
> > A great idea if you are pulling the boat anyway for a cutless bearing
> >
> > WindWalker II has had a drip less shaft seal since new
> >
> >
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Dick Walker
> > WindWalker II  # 687
> > 740 Olive Ave.
> > Coronado ,CA 92118
> > 619.435.8986
> >
> >
> >
> > > On Mar 23, 2014, at 13:56, "WINDER & KIRONDE" <wcwinder at comcast.net>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > When we bought our boat last year there were several 1 1/2 inch
> > > holes drilled in the transverse stringers.  It should be noted that
> > > these hollow stringers are also drilled for wiring - maybe post
> > > production - I do not know.  The previous owner apparently had a
> > > problem with mildew or mold under the sole section that wraps the
> > > galley sink base on the port side.  We stuck the business end of our
> > > wet/dry vacuum as far into the hole as possible and sucked out at
> > > least 2 gallons of water from between the hull liner/stringers and
> > > the hull. From the dirty waterline at the base of these large holes
> > > it was apparent that the water had over time risen to the bottom of
> > > the holes and then started to go into the space between the hull and
> the hull liner.
> > >
> > > The problem:  What good is it to drill weep holes if the water is
> > > just going to drain into the space between the hull and liner?  The
> > > only solution I can think of is to drill a hole near the bottom of
> > > the stringer and then install a 1/2" or 3/4" tube or PVC pipe to
> > > transport the water from one section to the other.  It is hard to
> > > believe that Catalina would create this problem in the first place.
> > >
> > > Bill Winder
> > > INDIGO
> > > C320 1994 #97
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>