[C320-list] Teak Steps

[Jeff Hare]

The forth option is to use the good stuff from target coatings that the factory used.  It's really easy to apply and if you add the cross-linker, it's extremely durable.

-Jeff

-----Original Message-----
From: C320-list [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of jim brown
Sent: Monday, April 20, 2015 8:27 PM
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Teak Steps

I'll add a third. I have used Minwax Helmsman polyurethane varnish on both hatch boards and steps (after sanding off the original finish). Advantages: comes in gloss and semi gloss, comes in a spray can as well as by the quart, and is much cheaper that other choices. I do three coats of the liquid using roll and tip, and finish with three coats of spray. The spray can be re-coated every hour or so and gives a drip free finish (usually). Practical Sailor gave is a budget buy and had good things to say about it. I've used Interlux before and can't really see any difference in finish or durability. Just a thought. Jim Brown   Desafinado

      From: Ron Groves <rbluegroves at yahoo.com>
 To: "C320-List at Catalina320.com" <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
 Sent: Monday, April 20, 2015 6:54 PM
 Subject: Re: [C320-list] Teak Steps
   
Bev it looks like there are two ways to go with the steps; either using Cetol Teak finish or Epifanes High Gloss Finish......am I correct?

Ron

Sent from my iPad



> On Apr 20, 2015, at 3:02 PM, "Beverly" <bev.wright at verizon.net> wrote:
> 
> Our 1993 C320 companionway steps and teak hatch boards had multiple 
> layers of high gloss varnish and needed refinishing. The steps and 
> hatch board varnish had started to peel in some areas and the steps 
> had embedded non-slip grit on the nose ends.  My father refinished the 
> steps and they look terrific.
> 
> He tried using heavy duty Klean Strip paint stripper on the hatch 
> boards with almost no effect and ended up stripping them using 80 grit 
> sandpaper discs on a random rotary dust-less sander. This took some 
> effort but worked well to remove the old varnish. After that, it was a 
> simple matter to fine sand them with 150 grit and apply three coats of 
> Cetol Teak finish to attain a semi-gloss exterior finish that weathers well.
> He removed the stair treads from the companionway stair frame and took 
> them home to strip them with the 80 grit sanding discs and random rotary sander.
> This worked well to remove the old varnish and embedded non-skid grit 
> from the stair treads. He then finish-sanded the treads with 150 grit 
> sanding discs and wiped them down with a rag dipped in Epifanes brush 
> thinner. He then applied multiple coats of Epifanes High Gloss Finish, 
> diluting the initial coats with 50% of the Epifanes brush thinner. 
> Subsequent coats were applied full strength at 24 hour intervals and 
> sanding between coats was then not required. Six coats produced a suitable gloss finish.
> 
> Bev Wright
> s/v Whoosh #15
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: C320-list [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On 
> Behalf Of Pat Ireland
> Sent: Monday, April 20, 2015 2:56 PM
> To: C320-List at catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Teak Steps
> 
> If you plan to refresh the companionway steps, check all the welds on 
> the brackets that mount the treads.  There may be a issue with the way 
> the brackets were tack welded.  The tacks need to be beefed up to 
> prevent cracking.  A good welder can quickly resolve the problem if 
> it's there and has not been addressed prior.  Pat, 801
> 
>> On Mon, Apr 20, 2015 at 5:00 AM, Jeff Hare <Catalina at thehares.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Ron,
>> 
>> I'm planning to redo mine sometime this season. What you'll have to 
>> do with yours really depends on their condition.  If the finish is 
>> original they're coated with a Target polymer which is very hard and 
>> won't strip off easily except for possibly using heat which has its 
>> own obvious risks.  Because the teak veneer is not too thick on the 
>> top, you'll have to sand carefully.
>> 
>> I'm still thinking about using the Target coatings product the 
>> factory used, which I find is super easy to work with and cleans up 
>> with water.  I believe that there is a chemical Cross-Linker sold by 
>> Target that can be added to this to make the surface extra tough and 
>> maybe better suited to steps.
>> I've
>> always been a tad concerned about the treads being slippery but don't 
>> like the idea of adding non-skid to it because they're tough on bare 
>> feet and break of eventually, tracking around the rest of the floor.
>> 
>> Generally speaking, bare teak is quite non-skid, gloss finish is more 
>> non-skid than satin but gloss seems wrong on a boat full of satin 
>> finished wood.  Others have put adhesive sandpaper like strips on the 
>> steps.  So, once I get them sanded down, I'll decide what to use when 
>> I
> see how they
>> came out.  Options include:  Danish oil or Target coatings.    I've 
>> also considered taking a page from Island Packet, by routing the 'V'
>> grooves into a square channel and inlaying a piece of Ipe (Ironwood), 
>> Holly, Maple or some other very hard contrasting wood that sits just 
>> proud of the surface so that there's something to make steps less 
>> slippery steps.  If I go this direction, I'll make a router jig so 
>> that this process is a snap and donate it to the association toolbox.
>> 
>> -Jeff Hare
>> #809
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: C320-list [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On 
>> Behalf Of Ron Groves
>> Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2015 6:15 PM
>> To: C320-list at catalina320.com
>> Subject: [C320-list] Teak Steps
>> 
>> Has anyone resurfaced steps leading down into cabin?  Not sure what 
>> to use to strip wood with  (or is it best to sand), or best product 
>> to use to re-seal.  Haven't worked with teak before so any help would 
>> be
> appreciated.
>> 
>> Ron Groves
>> #516
>