[C320-list] Teak Steps

[Ron Groves]

Thank you for your help.  Hope to pull the steps next week.

Ron

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 20, 2015, at 8:44 PM, "Jeff Hare" <Catalina at thehares.com> wrote:
> 
> The forth option is to use the good stuff from target coatings that the factory used.  It's really easy to apply and if you add the cross-linker, it's extremely durable.
> 
> -Jeff
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: C320-list [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of jim brown
> Sent: Monday, April 20, 2015 8:27 PM
> To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Teak Steps
> 
> I'll add a third. I have used Minwax Helmsman polyurethane varnish on both hatch boards and steps (after sanding off the original finish). Advantages: comes in gloss and semi gloss, comes in a spray can as well as by the quart, and is much cheaper that other choices. I do three coats of the liquid using roll and tip, and finish with three coats of spray. The spray can be re-coated every hour or so and gives a drip free finish (usually). Practical Sailor gave is a budget buy and had good things to say about it. I've used Interlux before and can't really see any difference in finish or durability. Just a thought. Jim Brown   Desafinado
> 
>      From: Ron Groves <rbluegroves at yahoo.com>
> To: "C320-List at Catalina320.com" <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
> Sent: Monday, April 20, 2015 6:54 PM
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Teak Steps
> 
> Bev it looks like there are two ways to go with the steps; either using Cetol Teak finish or Epifanes High Gloss Finish......am I correct?
> 
> Ron
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> 
> 
>> On Apr 20, 2015, at 3:02 PM, "Beverly" <bev.wright at verizon.net> wrote:
>> 
>> Our 1993 C320 companionway steps and teak hatch boards had multiple 
>> layers of high gloss varnish and needed refinishing. The steps and 
>> hatch board varnish had started to peel in some areas and the steps 
>> had embedded non-slip grit on the nose ends.  My father refinished the 
>> steps and they look terrific.
>> 
>> He tried using heavy duty Klean Strip paint stripper on the hatch 
>> boards with almost no effect and ended up stripping them using 80 grit 
>> sandpaper discs on a random rotary dust-less sander. This took some 
>> effort but worked well to remove the old varnish. After that, it was a 
>> simple matter to fine sand them with 150 grit and apply three coats of 
>> Cetol Teak finish to attain a semi-gloss exterior finish that weathers well.
>> He removed the stair treads from the companionway stair frame and took 
>> them home to strip them with the 80 grit sanding discs and random rotary sander.
>> This worked well to remove the old varnish and embedded non-skid grit 
>> from the stair treads. He then finish-sanded the treads with 150 grit 
>> sanding discs and wiped them down with a rag dipped in Epifanes brush 
>> thinner. He then applied multiple coats of Epifanes High Gloss Finish, 
>> diluting the initial coats with 50% of the Epifanes brush thinner. 
>> Subsequent coats were applied full strength at 24 hour intervals and 
>> sanding between coats was then not required. Six coats produced a suitable gloss finish.
>> 
>> Bev Wright
>> s/v Whoosh #15
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: C320-list [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On 
>> Behalf Of Pat Ireland
>> Sent: Monday, April 20, 2015 2:56 PM
>> To: C320-List at catalina320.com
>> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Teak Steps
>> 
>> If you plan to refresh the companionway steps, check all the welds on 
>> the brackets that mount the treads.  There may be a issue with the way 
>> the brackets were tack welded.  The tacks need to be beefed up to 
>> prevent cracking.  A good welder can quickly resolve the problem if 
>> it's there and has not been addressed prior.  Pat, 801
>> 
>>> On Mon, Apr 20, 2015 at 5:00 AM, Jeff Hare <Catalina at thehares.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Ron,
>>> 
>>> I'm planning to redo mine sometime this season. What you'll have to 
>>> do with yours really depends on their condition.  If the finish is 
>>> original they're coated with a Target polymer which is very hard and 
>>> won't strip off easily except for possibly using heat which has its 
>>> own obvious risks.  Because the teak veneer is not too thick on the 
>>> top, you'll have to sand carefully.
>>> 
>>> I'm still thinking about using the Target coatings product the 
>>> factory used, which I find is super easy to work with and cleans up 
>>> with water.  I believe that there is a chemical Cross-Linker sold by 
>>> Target that can be added to this to make the surface extra tough and 
>>> maybe better suited to steps.
>>> I've
>>> always been a tad concerned about the treads being slippery but don't 
>>> like the idea of adding non-skid to it because they're tough on bare 
>>> feet and break of eventually, tracking around the rest of the floor.
>>> 
>>> Generally speaking, bare teak is quite non-skid, gloss finish is more 
>>> non-skid than satin but gloss seems wrong on a boat full of satin 
>>> finished wood.  Others have put adhesive sandpaper like strips on the 
>>> steps.  So, once I get them sanded down, I'll decide what to use when 
>>> I
>> see how they
>>> came out.  Options include:  Danish oil or Target coatings.    I've 
>>> also considered taking a page from Island Packet, by routing the 'V'
>>> grooves into a square channel and inlaying a piece of Ipe (Ironwood), 
>>> Holly, Maple or some other very hard contrasting wood that sits just 
>>> proud of the surface so that there's something to make steps less 
>>> slippery steps.  If I go this direction, I'll make a router jig so 
>>> that this process is a snap and donate it to the association toolbox.
>>> 
>>> -Jeff Hare
>>> #809
>>> 
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: C320-list [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On 
>>> Behalf Of Ron Groves
>>> Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2015 6:15 PM
>>> To: C320-list at catalina320.com
>>> Subject: [C320-list] Teak Steps
>>> 
>>> Has anyone resurfaced steps leading down into cabin?  Not sure what 
>>> to use to strip wood with  (or is it best to sand), or best product 
>>> to use to re-seal.  Haven't worked with teak before so any help would 
>>> be
>> appreciated.
>>> 
>>> Ron Groves
>>> #516
> 
> 
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