[C320-list] Westerbeke fuel pump

[Rick Sulewski]

Joe,
 If the fuel pump was recently replaced and it is possible that the power wire connection to the pump may not be properly secure or strong enough to carry the current needed to run the pump.  You should hear the fuel pump "clicking" when the engine is running as that would signal that your pump is indeed cycling. Keep in mind that the fuel pump (Westerbeke) will only run when the engine cranks enough oil pressure and the oil pressure switch is then closed so as to allow the fuel pump to only run when the engine is running. An alternative test that may be more reliable then listening to hear the fuel pump running/clicking, is to pull off the two oil pressure sending unit wires (tabs) located on the oil pressure switch near the left side front of the engine near the oil drain hose....temporarily connect them together to hot wire the fuel pump circuit to close that circuit so your fuel pump should be powered up whenever you turn the key to the "on" position without having to start the engine; and then you should hear the fuel pump "clicking" if your fuel pump is powered up & running indicating that your fuel pump is correctly wired/grounded. It is not recommended that you run the fuel pump for any length of time in a "hot wired" condition for safety reasons because if your engine stalls out and there is a fuel leak your fuel pump will continue to run. BTW, if your engine stalls and will not restart, it is a good idea to always check to be sure one of the oil sender wires is not broken or disconnected from the oil sender switch because the fuel pump is powered only when those wires are properly secured to the oil sender switch... been there, done that.  If you are not hearing the fuel pump run or click, you may have a broken or disconnected hot wire to the fuel pump or it may be poorly grounded when it was replaced. It is also possible that you may have a defective replacement fuel pump. We learned we had a broken power lead to the fuel pump when our Westerbeke motor could still fire up and run when the fuel pump was not working, but there was enough fuel in the tank ( above 1/4 full in flat seas) to gravity flow fuel to the engine for it to run, even at higher RPMS, while not completely up to the power level as when the fuel pump is working. When the fuel level fell below 1/4 the engine stalled and would not restart until I added a gallon of fuel and then later discovered I had a broker power wire connected to the replacement fuel pump.  I also found that replacement fuel pumps are available from NAPA  for around $30, so I now keep an extra pump onboard along with extra wire connectors in our spare parts box.
Rick 
My-Ria 95 320 hull #277

-----Original Message-----
From: C320-list [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Elizabeth Schwartz
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2015 12:24 PM
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
Subject: [C320-list] Weterbeke fuel pump

Ahoy all.....I've had occasional stall issue at various rpm. Recently found out that primary fuel (lift) pump is only energized with key in glow plug position. At first sign of rpm drop, I turn key to glow plug position, then engine runs fine....fuel tank is full......anybody know why it might be stalling? would quick fix of hot wiring fuel pump on with engine on do any harm? My Catalina 30 w/ universal diesel had an engine driven pump that was always  powered.......I have changed primary and secnd filter, and have a new pump as of this winter.....engine starts fine.....I've done the 60 sec prime before start.....Thanks.....Joe   


On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 11:48 AM, danny jensen wrote:

> Hello,
>
> I would only use the proper heater hose to do the bypass. See below 
> for part numbers and article of my project. Do your heater hoses at 
> the at the same time as the water heater if you can. The hoses are 
> long lead time so you may want to jury rig something with hoses that 
> can be found in an out parts store but get something sturdy and high 
> temp (200-250F).
>
> Danny
> #972
>
>
> Check out this link to my project replacing the heater.
> 
> http://www.catalina320.com/mediagallery/media.php?f=0&sort=0&s=2014052
> 8143123396
>
>
> It will take some time to order the hoses. I read in an article that 
> the hoses are 10 ft each x 5/8. They are on order. I am told that this 
> part number is no longer available and that the new part number is 
> 250-0580. See
> 
> http://lists.catalina320.com/pipermail/c320-list-catalina320.com/2013-
> July/041794.html
> . I ordered 25 feet to be safe
>
>
> On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 3:43 AM, Michael Kowitt wrote:
>
>> Hi all,
>> This list has been so incredibly helpful.  I'm coming back to it once 
>> again.
>> Just discovered a pretty serious leak coming from the bottom of my 
>> hot water heater (checked all of the usual other fittings for leaks, 
>> and nothing).  For me, anyway, this will be a pretty big job to 
>> replace the HWH.  I'd like to just bypass it for the moment and get 
>> along with cold water only.  Right now, I can't use anything since 
>> starting the water pressure fills the tank and then causes it to leak 
>> right into bilge.
>> Anyway, in the past, there was a long discussion of bypassing the HWH 
>> for the purpose of winterization.  Bill Lowe offered some pictures 
>> where he connected the cold water input to the hot water output of 
>> the heater.
>>
>>   before the bypass:
>>
>> 
>> http://www.catalina320.com/mediagallery/media.php?f=0&sort=0&s=200910
>> 18100451183
>>
>> After the bypass:
>>
>> 
>> http://www.catalina320.com/mediagallery/media.php?f=0&sort=0&s=200910
>> 18100728844
>>
>>
>> Here's my question:  Can this arrangement also be used, not just for 
>> winterization, but in an ongoing way.  Is there any other risk to the 
>> system, the heat exchanger, etc. by operating under this bypass?
>>
>> Many thanks to all,
>> Mike Kowitt
>> Elusive
>> #903
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Danny
> 310-489-3427
>