[C320-list] sails for sale, hull # 948

[DianeFlr at aol.com]

Windy City has new racing sails, so her original Catalina sails both for  
sale.  150% jib.  Both in good condition.  Main includes Dutchman  system.  
also, have a spinnaker, 2 sets of sheets, 2 snatch blocks and  pole.  Located 
in Cape Coral, FL; but can ship??    Captain  Diane   2390-850-4935
 
 
In a message dated 11/9/2015 8:46:31 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
Catalina at thehares.com writes:

Hi,

We rebedded our chainplates this year when the mast was  down.  We did it
differently, so we'll see how it holds up.

We  used Butyl tape instead and the procedure went like this and it  really
needs 2 people.

1) remove the bolts
2) use flexible putty  knife and a hammer to *gently tap* the knife edge
under the chainplate on  deck to pop it off.
3) clean off the old adhesive
4) take a large  Chamfering drill bit and chamfer the drill holes
5) roll butyl tape into  thin strings and wrap around the heads of each bolt
6) run a string of  butyl tape around the bottom side of the chainplate (
make a rectangle and  circle each hole  before going on to next )
7) take a thicker rope of  butyl tape and circle the base of chain plate
itself (still from on  deck).  Be sure to use enough that this will mush 
deep
into the gap  between plate and the deck.
8) drop the plate back over the top and *press*  each bolt into place (1/4"
longer bolts would have been really great  here!!!)
9) hold the screw firmly from the deck (don't allow it to turn)  and have
someone tighten the nut below.  Do a little at a time on each  bolt until 
all
are snugged up.  We alternated diagonal corners.
10)  the butyl will squeeze out all around.  Just rub/wipe off the excess  
as
it squeezes out.  You could use masking tape to mask off the  perimeter.  A
razor blade can help slice the extra so that it can be  peeled off.

No real mess below, other than the goo from the old sealant  crumbling that
needed to be vacuumed up.

We did all 6 in about under  a couple hours.  But really had a hard time 
with
getting some of the  short bolts started.  Save yourself the grief and get
longer ones and  cut them off if you like.  (Tip: if you cut bolts, be sure
to thread  on a couple nuts first, then when you remove the nuts,  this will
help  repair the threads where they were cut.

We used:   http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
We followed this  article:
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware

-Jeff  Hare
#809



-----Original Message-----
From: C320-list  [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf
Of Rod  Boer
Sent: Saturday, November 7, 2015 10:08 AM
To:  C320-List at Catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Rebeding Chain  Plates

I have hull #688 and that is solid core.
Rod  Boer

-----Original Message-----
From: C320-list  [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf
Of Arthur  Miller
Sent: Saturday, November 07, 2015 7:23 AM
To:  C320-List at Catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Rebeding Chain  Plates

The earlier articles mention at some point Catalina went to a  solid deck in
the area of the chain plates.  Does anyone know what  Hull # that might have
started with?
Art.   #680. 

Sent  from my iPad

> On Nov 6, 2015, at 6:43 PM, Allan S Field  <allan.field at verizon.net> 
wrote:
> 
> From my personal  archives...
> 
> I had a problem with the middle stanchion on the  port side.  The 
> following is plagiarized from this forum (be  glad to give credit to 
> the original author...if I remembered who it  was) :
> 
> 1.. Move your cushions far away from the big mess you  are about to 
> make and also get the table out of your way. Place some  rags or an old 
> towel under the work area.
>  2.. Remove  the shroud.
>  3.. Remove the strut. Remember the sequence and  position of the 
> spacer and washers at the bottom of the strut. Mark  the spacer so you 
> know which side is up. A crows-foot socket makes  loosening (and
> tightening) the nuts on the bottom of the strut a  little easier. The 
> strut holds a bit of tension between the deck and  the beam that is 
> built into the liner. Notice how many turns it takes  before the upper 
> nut on the bottom of the strut comes loose and  releases that tension.
> This will help when you reinstall and  re-tension the strut. Typically 
> the
nut will come loose after  about 1 1/2 turns.
>  4.. Remove the 4 Phillips head thru-bolts.  The threads may be galled 
> so you might need to purchase new ones, 1/4  x 20 x 1.5".
>  5.. Remove the tang (step on it).
>  6..  Mask the deck around the trim plate so clean-up after caulking is 
> a  little easier.
>  7.. Pry the trim plate off of the  deck.
>  8.. The hole in the deck is larger than the tang and is  filled with
caulk.
> Clean out all of the old caulk.
>   9.. If the deck has a wooden core, clean out any rotten wood, let the 
>  core dry and fill the void with an appropriate filler.
>  10..  Clean the deck and cabin liner surfaces with a razor scraper, 
> gasket  scraper, Dremel tool, wire brush or any other suitable tool, 
> and wipe  them down with acetone.
>  11.. Use a chamfering bit to lightly  chamfer the screw holes and a 
> file to chamfer the larger  hole.
>  12.. Install the tang with the 4 screws but without the  trim plate. 
> You don't need to use any caulk on the underside of the  tang. If the 
> topside is sealed there doesn't seem to be any purpose  to it. If the 
> topside seal breaks, the underside caulking might keep  some water out 
> of the boat, but it
> 
> might also mask  the problem while your deck rots.
>  13.. Fill the space around the  tang with Boat Life's Life-Calk and 
> let it cure overnight. Life-Calk  is available in caulk gun tubes which 
> are easier to use than the  smaller squeeze tubes when filling a large
area.
>  14.. Trim  the dried caulk around the tang so that it is flush with 
> the  deck.
>  15.. Remove the Phillips bolts.
>  16.. Put a  heavy bead of caulk around the tang.
>  17.. Put some caulk in each  bolt hole.
>  18.. Put a bead of caulk on the deck around each bolt  hole.
>  19.. Carefully place the trim plate in position. Use a  couple of 
> bolts to align it as you press it down firmly and force the  caulk up 
> between the plate and the tang.
>  20.. Put some  caulk under the head of each bolt and push the bolts 
> into the holes  while pulling up on the tang. Don't push the tang down 
> and ruin the  seal.
>  21.. Tighten the 4 bolts. It would help to have someone on  hand to 
> assist with this step but it can be managed without  assistance.
>  22.. Clean up the caulk and remove the  tape.
>  23.. Attach the strut. Hand tighten the upper nut until  snug, and 
> then use a wrench to tighten it approximately another 1 1/2  turns.
>  24.. Attach the shroud.
>  *****************************************
> 
> For those to timid  to attack a leaking chain plate, here is what I found.
> The prepurchase  survey reported moisture in the center chain plate 
> port and  starboard.
> 
> I removed the shrouds from the plate. There is  simply no other way. 
> Mark the threads with tape then back off the  adjuster counting the 
> turns.  This will make retensioning the  shrouds easier.  Now, 
> completely remove the plate from the hull.  Dig out all the old caulk 
> to
expose the cut edges of the  deck.
> Those of you who have water entering the salon will almost  certainly 
> have water soaked balsa core in the deck.
> 
>  In later models of the 320, Catalina saw fit to make the deck solid 
>  fiberglass where the chain plates pass through. This was not the case 
>  with #26. The balsa core was so wet it crumbled without the support of  
> the
caulk.
> There is no choice but to remove the soaked  core, fill the void with 
> epoxy filler, and recaulk the entire  opening.
> 
> One way is to bend a nail to create a 1/2" hook.  Remove the head and 
> put the nail in a power drill.  Use this to  remove as much of the 
> balsa core as possible.  Let the opening  stand long enough to dry more 
> of the core.  Use hair dryer or  other mechanical means.
> 
> When dry, mix epoxy with a slow cure  hardner and lots of filler to 
> make a peanut butter paste.  (I  recommend the West System product.) 
> Next tape over the deck opening  from the inside. Now, with whatever 
> tools you can muster, force the  putty into the space between the deck 
> and liner taking great pains to  fill in a circular manner so as to 
> force out as much air as possible.  Let fully cure. Then reassamble the 
> chain plate with polysuflide  caulk or polysulfide/silicone product.
> 
> Another method I've  heard about is to again seal the opening from the 
> inside and complete  fill the opening, the entire opening with an epoxy 
> mix that will  flow.  When hard, simply drill out a new opening through 
> the now  solid epoxy deck.
> 
> Do not delay doing this another season. The  rotting core will only get 
> worse.  It's not really that bad of a  job.  If you don't count 
> yoursefe handy, do have a yard do the  work.  Soft decks can make an 
> otherwise clean boat very hard to  sell.
> **************************
> Jeff's instructions give some  fine details and will solve some of the 
> problems I encountered. I'd  add that I used a chamfering bit to bevel 
> the screw holes in the  deck. I'm told this gives a better "pocket" of 
> caulk between the  screw and deck. Chamfering is recommended with any 
> screws through the  deck.
> 
> I used a pocket knife to loosen the caulk then pulled  it out with pliers.
> The excess old caulk on the deck I removed with a  dremel tool and 
> small wire brush. Use care to only remove the caulk  and not burn the 
> gelcoat on the deck not that appearance matters as  this area should be
under the plate.
> 
> Do not buy squeeze  tubes of caulk. I use LifeCaulk by BoatLife. The 
> stuff is very stiff  in the tube and squeezing it out to fill the void 
>  is
difficult.
> My store has tubes of LifeCaulk for use with a  caulkiing gun. There 
> are both the normal long tubes and short tubes.  A short tube is enough 
> for both center plates. Use a long tube if you  are going to do all six.
> 
> Doing it in two stages as Jeff  instructs is the way to go. I did it in 
> one step and believe me,  Jeff's way is easier. That is fill the space 
> around the tang to the  deck, let it cure overnight, then do the plate 
> and screws as Jeff  says.
> 
> Finally, my experts advise to not tighten the screws  fully in 
> assembling the deck plate. Instead, just slightly more than  
> hand-tight. Let it cure a day or two this way to establish a layer of  
> caulk. Then, when the screws are tightened the caulk won't be  squeezed 
> out leaving to thin a bead under the plate.
> 
>  Now, if some enterprising person would organize the suggestions in 
>  this thread, we'd have a nice technical piece for the 320 website.
>  
> ***************************************
> It is recommended to  use the Woolsey Dolfinite Bedding Compound.  It 
> does not set up  like others such as 3M 5200 or ooze as Silicon products.
> 
>  -----Original Message-----
> From: C320-list  [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On 
> Behalf Of ROBERT  MILLER
> Sent: Friday, November 6, 2015 5:11 PM
> To:  c320-list at lists.catalina320.com
> Subject: [C320-list] Rebeding Chain  Plates
> 
> One of my chain plates has started leaking, and I'm  looking for the 
> best procedure to re-seal them. I found reference to  step by step 
> instructions on this job in the archives, but can't find  the actual 
> instructions in the archives or in the articles on the 320  owners 
> site. Does anyone have these that they could share?
>  Thanks,
> Rob Miller
> Alchemy #571
> Sidney BC
>  
> Sent from my iPad
>