[C320-list] Mast wiring question

Graeme Clark cg at skyflyer.co.uk
Wed Sep 16 08:08:57 PDT 2015


Doug

When I had the mast out I decided to use LED lights everywhere which means you can use a thinner (and less weighty and less expensive) cable as it carries much less current. It is therefore also easier to thread through the conduit!

As Jeff says there is a connector block at the foot of the mast. On the recommendation of my riggers we dispensed with that and just left a long tail of the new cables (fitted new vhf antenna and cable too) which was threaded through compression post (using a mouse line). If I ever need to remove the mast again I have enough slack under the port settee to make a junction box there. this means that any future electrical problems MUST be either at the lamp end or then cabin end, but you wont be worrying about having to remove the mast because there might be a corroded connection at the connector block, which is otherwise inaccessible.

The pictures that i submitted with the mainsheet article didn’t reproduce that well. If you'd like me to send you the originals, I can do so

Graeme Clark
#366, Jaskar

On 16 Sep 2015, at 15:44, Warren Updike <wupdike at hotmail.com> wrote:

> Doug, a few years ago we pulled our mast for service. I ended up replacing
> all the wiring and fixtures. I figured on a 1994 boat, why not do a complete
> job while the mast is down. I tied a messenger to the old wires when I
> pulled them out. Had to use wire snot (that's what I called it,) to assist
> in pulling the new wires through the conduits. This stuff is a thick goo you
> can buy locally (box stores) for this purpose. The wires run in PVC conduits
> that slide onto a tracks inside the mast. Later models with a different
> brand mast may find different conditions. I also pulled a new messenger
> through with the new wires.
> You may find, as did I, that there are connectors at the base of the mast on
> deck where you can disconnect the wires. The yard guys didn't see the
> connector box for the wind inst and cut the wire at the deck. 
> Someone mentioned TicTack wireless. I've seen favorable comments from owners
> who have used TicTack. 
> Regardless of whether you replace the fixtures or not, replace all the
> bulbs; and, clean the contacts well and use a conductive grease on them.
> This will help to prevent future corrosion and resulting trips up the mast.
> Also, be sure to thoroughly clean the mast slide and wipe down with a dry
> lubricant. 
> Check all the rigging for wire feathers and strain on the swages.
> 
> Warren and Pattie Updike
> 1994 C320 "Warr de Mar" #62
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Doug Treff [mailto:doug at treff.us] 
> Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2015 10:01 AM
> To: C320 List
> Subject: [C320-list] Mast wiring question
> 
> 
> 
> All, 
> 
> I'm planning an electronics upgrade this off-season and included in that
> job is fitting a masthead wind sensor. September Song doesn't currently
> have one, so there's no wiring already in place. I know I'll need the
> mast pulled to get access, but I'm looking for tips on the rest of the
> job. Looking at the ceiling in the cabin where the compression post is
> fitted, I don't see any access to run wires, so I am assuming that once
> the mast is out of the way, I'll be able to get access through the deck
> to run wires? My mast is an older one and does not have the access panel
> like some newer C320's. 
> 
> Any guidance on how the wires should be routed would be appreciated.
> Anyone who's done this job, I'd love to hear from you. 
> 
> Thanks! 
> 
> -- 
> Doug Treff
> Catalina 320 - 1996 - September Song - #350
> http://savvysailor.blogspot.com/
> doug at treff.us
> 
> 



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