[C320-list] Hull #514

[Troy Dunn]

I installed the new light switch last weekend and that is working great
now.  Installed the new portlight this weekend.  Hardest part of the job
was cleaning up the residue from the gorilla tape I used to seal off the
hole until I could wrap up the project.   Once the surface was clean I used
acetone to remove any contaminants leftover from cleanup, and on the frame
of the portlight.   The butyl tape was definitely the way to go. Good catch
on the varying screw sizes Graeme!  When a couple of screws bottomed out I
was glad I saved all the old machine screws.   I test fitted the portlight
per Warren's suggestion and noted that the forward most part of the
portlight had a 1/32" gap.    I used a little extra butyl tape in this
area.   I ended up with a very nice and uniform seal.  Blasting with the
hose nozzle for several minutes yielded no water on the inside.   Woo hoo!
  The only downside is how pretty and clear the new portlight is...I really
like the slightly lower profile and different sealing mechanism of the
newer port lights.  I'll definitely be replacing all of the coachroof port
lights soon.

I'm going to go ahead and check a few of the chainplates. One at a time of
course.  Although the decking is solid FRP around the shrouds, and there
was obvious 'repair' to the portlight frame area I need to rule them out
for certain, and according to everything I've read this is an easy check as
long as I use my dial calipers to record the distance between the
turnbuckle bolts prior to removal.   I will most likely do this at the same
time I replace the other portlight, I replaced the orings on that one and
it seems to be better now, but...I really really like the new portlight,
and having two different port lights on the starboard coach roof looks
dorky.

On Sunday, June 5, 2016, Warren Updike <wupdike at hotmail.com> wrote:

> Troy, once you clean up all the old material, dry fit the port to assess
> how much butyl rape you'll need to fill the space. If the inside of the
> frame is concave, you might find it more appropriate to use a different
> sealant.
>
> Warren and Pattie Updike
> 1994 C320 "Warr de Mar" #62
> Middle River, Chesapeake Bay
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Troy Dunn [mailto:troutwarrior at gmail.com <javascript:;>]
> Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2016 9:08 AM
> To: C320-List at catalina320.com <javascript:;>
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Hull #514
>
> Pulled the portlight last weekend.   It looks like this is definitely where
> the leak was, but at least near the portlight it has dried out.   I bought
> a replacement portlight and will install that when the weather cooperates.
> I'll still need to investigate the moisture issue because I think the PO
> may have repaired the leak without remediating the deck moisture...joy.
> I'm really glad I pulled the portlight, although the last repair was done
> using butyl tape, it does not appear to be the right butyl tape.    I
> bought the Bed-It tape from Mainsail as this appears to be the consensus on
> best solution for sealant at the moment.
>
> Another clue on the leak path is that the eye ball light beneath this
> portlight wasn't working, and upon removing the setee cushion there is a
> wee bit of water staining on the wall between the salon and the v berth
> where the wall meets the bulkhead.
>
> I opted to do surgery on the light as opposed to replacing the whole
> thing.  When I bypassed the switch everything works fine.   I took the
> switch home and pryed off the plastic rocker.   There was much corrosion on
> the internals.   After a little sanding of all the tiny metal parts and a
> little dielectric grease, the switch is back together and works fine, at
> least according to my voltmeter, I'll reinstall that later today.
>
> Cheers
>
> Troy
>
> On Tuesday, May 24, 2016, Graeme Clark <cg at skyflyer.co.uk <javascript:;>>
> wrote:
>
> > If you DO decide to remove the port-light frames in entirety, a couple of
> > points worth noting: not all the screws are the same length, so note
> which
> > goes where. Its not that bad a job, you just need to go carefully and
> take
> > your time. I was able to extract the ports without damage by using a
> putty
> > knife to slowly work around the gap between frame and hull to free off
> the
> > grip of the sealant. Over enthusiastic effort there, especially using a
> > lever, will bend the frame.  The source of many of my leaks has been
> traced
> > to tiny amounts of dirt on the perspex or the rubber seals. Finally I
> gave
> > up buying new Lewmar port-light seals which are expensive (over here,
> > anyway) and hard to fit, and instead use 8mm neoprene cord that is
> caulked
> > into the corner of the frame. About $1 a time and replaced in ten minutes
> > every couple of years.
> >
> > Graeme
> > 366, Jaskar
> > On 21 May 2016, at 22:13, Troy Dunn <troutwarrior at gmail.com
> <javascript:;> <javascript:;>>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Warren and Pattie
> > >
> > > Not sure of anything.   Our surveyor noted some raised moisture level
> in
> > > the decking below the port light and reccomended rebedding as our
> number
> > > one priority before moving on to more cosmetic items.  We did all the
> > > reccomended items with all the opening ports, thorough cleaning, armour
> > all
> > > on the seals, took apart the dogs, tried rejuvenating the orings, etc.
> >  I
> > > think given the moisture situation, we have little choice but to pull
> the
> > > port.   Given the age of the ports if I have to pull it...it gets
> > replaced.
> > >   I'd be surprised if a leaking o-ring on the dogs would steer moisture
> > > into the decking...seems like that would just end up running down the
> > > woodwork, or onto the setee in the cabin?
> > >
> > > Troy and Kim Dunn
> > > Hull #514, (still working on the name)
> > > Tidewater Marina, Havre De Grace, MD
> > >
> > > On Saturday, May 21, 2016, Warren Updike <wupdike at hotmail.com
> <javascript:;>
> > <javascript:;>> wrote:
> > >
> > >> Troy and Kim, welcome to the C320 club. FYI, all the messages on this
> > list
> > >> are archived on a Google group, here:
> > >> http://groups.google.com/group/c320-list Be sure to search here for
> > >> information of your interest.
> > >> Are you sure your leak is from the gasket/frame? Common port leaks are
> > >> also from the lock handles. There are "O" rings in the handles that
> can
> > be
> > >> replaced. Also, the screw can adjust the tension on the closure.
> > >> Many of us with the split-ring frame have found that where the gasket
> is
> > >> visible in the split from the outside can be a source of leak. It may
> > not
> > >> be necessary to pull the port and replace the whole gasket, a job
> which
> > I
> > >> hear is a real bear. I've pulled out the parts of the gasket in the
> ring
> > >> split, taped, and filled with black LifeCalk. The repair is
> water-tight,
> > >> looks good, and has held for more than 5 years.
> > >>
> > >> Warren and Pattie Updike
> > >> 1994 C320 "Warr de Mar" #62
> > >> Middle River, Chesapeake Bay
> > >>
> > >> -----Original Message-----
> > >> From: Troy Dunn [mailto:troutwarrior at gmail.com <javascript:;>
> <javascript:;>
> > <javascript:;>]
> > >> Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2016 8:41 PM
> > >> To: C320-List at catalina320.com <javascript:;> <javascript:;>
> <javascript:;>
> > >> Subject: [C320-list] Hull #514
> > >>
> > >> Hello all-
> > >>
> > >> Thank you for all the great information and posts from fellow 320
> > owners.
> > >> My wife and I recently purchased Hull #514, and this 'forum' has been
> > very
> > >> helpful throughout the purchase process and in answering some very
> basic
> > >> questions that might have elicited a chuckle or two from the crowd.
> > >>
> > >> The previous owner of our boat treated her well, and we have
> relatively
> > few
> > >> 'projects' to attend to while we learn her quirks.  So far we've only
> > been
> > >> able to get her out a couple of times since closing.   We nosed her
> out
> > for
> > >> a couple of hours mid morning this Sunday but anyone who sails on the
> > upper
> > >> Chesapeake can tell you it wasn't a good day to be out in an
> unfamiliar
> > >> vessel.
> > >>
> > >> The only real project we must attend to relatively quickly is a
> > starboard
> > >> opening port light that has just a tad of moisture in the surrounding
> > >> deck.  I think this probably means that our hull does not have a solid
> > >> fiberglass cut out for this port.   Before I pull the port and replace
> > and
> > >> rebed a new port light I was wondering if anyone with a close hull
> > number
> > >> can tell me if they have exposed core where these ports are?  Or do
> they
> > >> all have exposed core? I'm currently planning to remediate the core
> and
> > use
> > >> epoxy to seal out moisture in the future.  I've been delaying this
> > project
> > >> in anticipation of a prolonged project if I need to attend to any core
> > >> issues, but I need to get going soon.
> > >>
> > >> Thanks in advance for any help!
> > >>
> > >> Troy and Kim Dunn
> > >> Hull #514, (still working on the name)
> > >> Tidewater Marina, Havre De Grace, MD
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> > ———————————————————
> > I work irregular hours and often write emails late in the evening and at
> > weekends; that doesn’t mean I expect you to do the same; reply when
> > convenient!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
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