[C320-list] Hull #514

[Chris Burti]

Calipers are good, but counting the turns as you loosen the turnbuckle is
actually more precise.

I hope you will take pictures and write a description for a Mainsheet
article!
Chris Burti
aboard Commitment, #867
@ Tidewater Yacht Marina Portsmouth, VA






Chris Burti
Farmville, NC


On Sun, Jun 12, 2016 at 9:49 PM, Troy Dunn <troutwarrior at gmail.com> wrote:

> I installed the new light switch last weekend and that is working great
> now.  Installed the new portlight this weekend.  Hardest part of the job
> was cleaning up the residue from the gorilla tape I used to seal off the
> hole until I could wrap up the project.   Once the surface was clean I used
> acetone to remove any contaminants leftover from cleanup, and on the frame
> of the portlight.   The butyl tape was definitely the way to go. Good catch
> on the varying screw sizes Graeme!  When a couple of screws bottomed out I
> was glad I saved all the old machine screws.   I test fitted the portlight
> per Warren's suggestion and noted that the forward most part of the
> portlight had a 1/32" gap.    I used a little extra butyl tape in this
> area.   I ended up with a very nice and uniform seal.  Blasting with the
> hose nozzle for several minutes yielded no water on the inside.   Woo hoo!
>   The only downside is how pretty and clear the new portlight is...I really
> like the slightly lower profile and different sealing mechanism of the
> newer port lights.  I'll definitely be replacing all of the coachroof port
> lights soon.
>
> I'm going to go ahead and check a few of the chainplates. One at a time of
> course.  Although the decking is solid FRP around the shrouds, and there
> was obvious 'repair' to the portlight frame area I need to rule them out
> for certain, and according to everything I've read this is an easy check as
> long as I use my dial calipers to record the distance between the
> turnbuckle bolts prior to removal.   I will most likely do this at the same
> time I replace the other portlight, I replaced the orings on that one and
> it seems to be better now, but...I really really like the new portlight,
> and having two different port lights on the starboard coach roof looks
> dorky.
>
> On Sunday, June 5, 2016, Warren Updike <wupdike at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Troy, once you clean up all the old material, dry fit the port to assess
> > how much butyl rape you'll need to fill the space. If the inside of the
> > frame is concave, you might find it more appropriate to use a different
> > sealant.
> >
> > Warren and Pattie Updike
> > 1994 C320 "Warr de Mar" #62
> > Middle River, Chesapeake Bay
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Troy Dunn [mailto:troutwarrior at gmail.com <javascript:;>]
> > Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2016 9:08 AM
> > To: C320-List at catalina320.com <javascript:;>
> > Subject: Re: [C320-list] Hull #514
> >
> > Pulled the portlight last weekend.   It looks like this is definitely
> where
> > the leak was, but at least near the portlight it has dried out.   I
> bought
> > a replacement portlight and will install that when the weather
> cooperates.
> > I'll still need to investigate the moisture issue because I think the PO
> > may have repaired the leak without remediating the deck moisture...joy.
> > I'm really glad I pulled the portlight, although the last repair was done
> > using butyl tape, it does not appear to be the right butyl tape.    I
> > bought the Bed-It tape from Mainsail as this appears to be the consensus
> on
> > best solution for sealant at the moment.
> >
> > Another clue on the leak path is that the eye ball light beneath this
> > portlight wasn't working, and upon removing the setee cushion there is a
> > wee bit of water staining on the wall between the salon and the v berth
> > where the wall meets the bulkhead.
> >
> > I opted to do surgery on the light as opposed to replacing the whole
> > thing.  When I bypassed the switch everything works fine.   I took the
> > switch home and pryed off the plastic rocker.   There was much corrosion
> on
> > the internals.   After a little sanding of all the tiny metal parts and a
> > little dielectric grease, the switch is back together and works fine, at
> > least according to my voltmeter, I'll reinstall that later today.
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Troy
> >
> > On Tuesday, May 24, 2016, Graeme Clark <cg at skyflyer.co.uk
> <javascript:;>>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > If you DO decide to remove the port-light frames in entirety, a couple
> of
> > > points worth noting: not all the screws are the same length, so note
> > which
> > > goes where. Its not that bad a job, you just need to go carefully and
> > take
> > > your time. I was able to extract the ports without damage by using a
> > putty
> > > knife to slowly work around the gap between frame and hull to free off
> > the
> > > grip of the sealant. Over enthusiastic effort there, especially using a
> > > lever, will bend the frame.  The source of many of my leaks has been
> > traced
> > > to tiny amounts of dirt on the perspex or the rubber seals. Finally I
> > gave
> > > up buying new Lewmar port-light seals which are expensive (over here,
> > > anyway) and hard to fit, and instead use 8mm neoprene cord that is
> > caulked
> > > into the corner of the frame. About $1 a time and replaced in ten
> minutes
> > > every couple of years.
> > >
> > > Graeme
> > > 366, Jaskar
> > > On 21 May 2016, at 22:13, Troy Dunn <troutwarrior at gmail.com
> > <javascript:;> <javascript:;>>
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Warren and Pattie
> > > >
> > > > Not sure of anything.   Our surveyor noted some raised moisture level
> > in
> > > > the decking below the port light and reccomended rebedding as our
> > number
> > > > one priority before moving on to more cosmetic items.  We did all the
> > > > reccomended items with all the opening ports, thorough cleaning,
> armour
> > > all
> > > > on the seals, took apart the dogs, tried rejuvenating the orings,
> etc.
> > >  I
> > > > think given the moisture situation, we have little choice but to pull
> > the
> > > > port.   Given the age of the ports if I have to pull it...it gets
> > > replaced.
> > > >   I'd be surprised if a leaking o-ring on the dogs would steer
> moisture
> > > > into the decking...seems like that would just end up running down the
> > > > woodwork, or onto the setee in the cabin?
> > > >
> > > > Troy and Kim Dunn
> > > > Hull #514, (still working on the name)
> > > > Tidewater Marina, Havre De Grace, MD
> > > >
> > > > On Saturday, May 21, 2016, Warren Updike <wupdike at hotmail.com
> > <javascript:;>
> > > <javascript:;>> wrote:
> > > >
> > > >> Troy and Kim, welcome to the C320 club. FYI, all the messages on
> this
> > > list
> > > >> are archived on a Google group, here:
> > > >> http://groups.google.com/group/c320-list Be sure to search here for
> > > >> information of your interest.
> > > >> Are you sure your leak is from the gasket/frame? Common port leaks
> are
> > > >> also from the lock handles. There are "O" rings in the handles that
> > can
> > > be
> > > >> replaced. Also, the screw can adjust the tension on the closure.
> > > >> Many of us with the split-ring frame have found that where the
> gasket
> > is
> > > >> visible in the split from the outside can be a source of leak. It
> may
> > > not
> > > >> be necessary to pull the port and replace the whole gasket, a job
> > which
> > > I
> > > >> hear is a real bear. I've pulled out the parts of the gasket in the
> > ring
> > > >> split, taped, and filled with black LifeCalk. The repair is
> > water-tight,
> > > >> looks good, and has held for more than 5 years.
> > > >>
> > > >> Warren and Pattie Updike
> > > >> 1994 C320 "Warr de Mar" #62
> > > >> Middle River, Chesapeake Bay
> > > >>
> > > >> -----Original Message-----
> > > >> From: Troy Dunn [mailto:troutwarrior at gmail.com <javascript:;>
> > <javascript:;>
> > > <javascript:;>]
> > > >> Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2016 8:41 PM
> > > >> To: C320-List at catalina320.com <javascript:;> <javascript:;>
> > <javascript:;>
> > > >> Subject: [C320-list] Hull #514
> > > >>
> > > >> Hello all-
> > > >>
> > > >> Thank you for all the great information and posts from fellow 320
> > > owners.
> > > >> My wife and I recently purchased Hull #514, and this 'forum' has
> been
> > > very
> > > >> helpful throughout the purchase process and in answering some very
> > basic
> > > >> questions that might have elicited a chuckle or two from the crowd.
> > > >>
> > > >> The previous owner of our boat treated her well, and we have
> > relatively
> > > few
> > > >> 'projects' to attend to while we learn her quirks.  So far we've
> only
> > > been
> > > >> able to get her out a couple of times since closing.   We nosed her
> > out
> > > for
> > > >> a couple of hours mid morning this Sunday but anyone who sails on
> the
> > > upper
> > > >> Chesapeake can tell you it wasn't a good day to be out in an
> > unfamiliar
> > > >> vessel.
> > > >>
> > > >> The only real project we must attend to relatively quickly is a
> > > starboard
> > > >> opening port light that has just a tad of moisture in the
> surrounding
> > > >> deck.  I think this probably means that our hull does not have a
> solid
> > > >> fiberglass cut out for this port.   Before I pull the port and
> replace
> > > and
> > > >> rebed a new port light I was wondering if anyone with a close hull
> > > number
> > > >> can tell me if they have exposed core where these ports are?  Or do
> > they
> > > >> all have exposed core? I'm currently planning to remediate the core
> > and
> > > use
> > > >> epoxy to seal out moisture in the future.  I've been delaying this
> > > project
> > > >> in anticipation of a prolonged project if I need to attend to any
> core
> > > >> issues, but I need to get going soon.
> > > >>
> > > >> Thanks in advance for any help!
> > > >>
> > > >> Troy and Kim Dunn
> > > >> Hull #514, (still working on the name)
> > > >> Tidewater Marina, Havre De Grace, MD
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > >
> > > ———————————————————
> > > I work irregular hours and often write emails late in the evening and
> at
> > > weekends; that doesn’t mean I expect you to do the same; reply when
> > > convenient!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
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