[C320-list] (no subject)
sail-ability sail-ability
sail-ability at sympatico.ca
Tue Mar 28 05:07:34 PDT 2017
Thank you very much for this info. I will avail myself of the cutlass
bearing and shaft decoupler tools. I have a Tides Marine dripless
stuffing box on the boat and have a new shaft log hose and seal. The
shaft log hose is very flexible so should aid in the process.
Thanks again.
JohnM
1999#574
---------- Original Message ----------
From: Rick Sulewski <rsulewski at bex.net>
Date: March 27, 2017 at 11:17 PM
John,
If you have a shaft log hose, given the age of your hull, you may
want to
also replace that shaft log hose with a robust hose at the same time
you are
replacing the cutlass bearing. If you have a shaft log hose it would
be
helpful to have the cutlass bearing out of the strut in the event
you need
to completely remove the shaft and if the old coupler cannot be
reused. The
reason I am sharing this tip with you is because you could, if
necessary,
completely remove the shaft in the event and the shaft and a new
coupler may
need to be machined to re-matched a new coupler to the shaft for a
tight
interference fit.
Fortunately for me, I was able to reuse the shaft coupler when I
removed the
shaft log hose but I was kicking myself because I did not replace
the shaft
log hose two years earlier when I had the cutlass bearing removed
from the
strut. I was lucky because we do not harbor in saltwater and
freshwater
corrosion is minimal with adequate rust and metal remaining on the
coupler
after I pressed out/removed the SS shaft with the shaft
coupler/flange
removal tool I purchased from the internet vendor that sold me a
shaft log
hose. Therefore, if needed, you could might consider requesting the
association coupler removal tool if you need to replace your shaft
log hose
because you will need to remove the coupler to install a new shaft
log hose
or replace the shaft log.
It was a challenge for me to get the shaft back into the old coupler
because
the hull had relaxed in the cradle and shaft was tighter going back
into the
couple because the shaft was not clearly aligned thru the coupler
when the
coupler was reattached to the transmission flange because I was
working
alone. The issue developed due in part to the replaced cutlass
bearing which
contributed to a challenge getting the shaft back into the coupler
with the
shaft key properly in place after installing the new and stiffer
shaft log
hose. The new hose was less flexible than the softer and cracking
older OEM
shaft log hose. The last unexpected additional challenge involved
finally
discovering that it was necessary to reset the shaft key into the
coupler
from the transmission side of the shaft coupler to ensure a tighter
shaft to
coupler fit. It would have been easier if I had replaced the shaft
log hose
when the cutlass bearing was removed from the strut. That way I
should have
reinstalled the coupler on the shaft with the key in place BEFORE I
had
installed the new cutlass bearing into the strut. Additionally I
learned
that it is wise to install a new, very secure, magnesium shaft anode
(for
freshwater) just an inch and a half or so (not greater than the
distance
between the shaft coupler and the shaft log) so the anode is far
enough
ahead of the cutlass strut in the event the shaft departed from the
coupler
so the minimum amount of shaft is still left in the shaft log if the
shaft
ever backed out of the coupler.
The association tool loaner program saved me hundreds of dollars
when
replacing the cutlass bearing, while I was not aware at that time of
an
association shaft coupler removal tool.
Rick
My-Ria 95' hull #277
-----Original Message-----
From: C320-list [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On
Behalf
Of John Morrison
Sent: Monday, March 27, 2017 4:46 PM
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
Subject: [C320-list] (no subject)
Does anyone know if prop shaft will come out of our boats without
rudder
coming off?
JohnM
1999#574
Sent from my iPhone=
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