[C320-list] Leaking Opening Port

Ade Bateman ade.bateman at outlook.com
Thu Oct 5 09:09:50 PDT 2017


> On Thu, Oct 05, 2017 at 05:31:15, Rick Sulewski wrote:
> 
>   FYI - something to consider when replacing port lights :
> 
> Last year I discovered a way to easily remove/release each frame from
> the hull in less than 20 seconds each without damage and without prying
> off the frame from the exterior side (after removing all of the inside
> frame retaining screws).
> I simply leaned against the frame from the inside with a screw driver
> placed first in the  middle of each side for about 3-5 seconds and then
> in the middle of the lower frame section for a few seconds before I
> could simply push the frame off the hull. Used "Goof Off" to easily
> remove the old sealant from the hull in about 3 minutes for each port
> after briefly scrapping off a small amount of old excess sealant left
> after the frame released.  Most of the time was spent liberally prepping
> the new frames with Bed It butyl rubber sealant. Installed each port
> from the inside to place it against the exterior side of the hull from
> the inside without the need for an extra pair of hands. Drew the frames
> tighter with the interior frame ring over several minutes to squeeze out
> the excess sealant that was easily removed from the exterior of the hull
> a few days later with a razor blade.

While I've used Bed It butyl tape for resealing lots of things, I actually
used Life Calk for re-bedding my leaking portlights (and installing a
new replacement). I've found it more difficult to get a consistent seal
with the tape on larger areas where you need to bend and potentially layer
the tape. Plus you really need to tighten hardware incrementally to let the
butyl find it's way into all the gaps. I preferred a more liquid sealant
for doing the portlights.

Ade.


More information about the C320-list mailing list