[C320-list] Drilling stern rails

Thu May 10 09:59:12 PDT 2018

Hi.  Jumping in here late with my two cents.  Our Poly-Planar speakers under the Princess seats (two others in cabin) that were likely installed at the time of commissioning in 2000 have medium speaker wire tie wraped to the horizontal tubes over to the first inboard vertical tube.  The wire then passes through a rubber grommet and into the tube.  On the port side that means it runs into the vertical tube that is already drilled for the aft white running light wire.

We have a volume adjustment knob mounted just aft of the bilge pump handle access so wires from both speakers find their way there tie wrapped to what is available and then on forward.  Not sure of that routing.

Regards

Ken Geiger
Nothern Dream
2000. #765

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-----Original Message-----
From: Troy Dunn <troutwarrior at gmail.com>
To: C320-List <C320-List at catalina320.com>
Sent: Wed, May 9, 2018 09:59 PM
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Drilling stern rails

Jeff-

You've addressed all of my concerns.  You might be low bidding that price
though if you charge what the yards are charging these days for this type
of thing.  I'm not surprised you had to break out the profanasaurus; my
theory is that if you come out the other side of a project like this
without dropping a few swear words and a few bloody knuckles...it probably
isn't over...

I'll be on the boat all weekend and I intend to take a hard stare at your
approach.   I don't know the exact distance from #1 over to the wall of #2,
but if it's over 12" then I'm probably going to take a shortcut and drill
through the side of  #2 just beneath the horizontal and then use a foam
pipe cover with a Sunbrella cover to hide the wire running beneath that
horizontal to beneath the seat.    I have all new canvas on the boat so I
need to redo the backrest covers behind the princess seats.  I need to find
a few more sewing projects for the LSZ-1 Plus to justify that...
"investment" anyhow  (zipties will suffice until I get to the sewing
project).

I have a set of Drillhog Cobalt M42 bits.  I think those will work fine for
this application but I do not yet own a bit long enough to make what I'm
guessing is a long run from #1 to #2.   I'll drop back into this thread
once I've made an assessment.

Chris et. al.-

This group is fantastic, I've looked at all the other approaches posted
here over the years, and I'm really impressed with the installs in the
stern lockers.   It was a true toss up between that approach and the
princess seat approach.  In the end I based my decision on the clarity,
quality, and sound distribution of the Polk Atrium line along with a line
of thinking that it was better to have the speakers in a position that
could be "spun" to the rear for when we are anchored and "floating with
toys" (I'll let you know if that ever really happens LOL).    In the end
having a set of four basically identical speakers above and below decks
just feels right.   It's a qualitative decision, not based on much
quantitative information.  If I end up not liking the chosen path I can
always uninstall and start cutting fiberglass.   Going the other direction
is not a great option once the holes are cut in the fiberglass.

FWIW-

Troy

On Wed, May 9, 2018 at 3:55 PM, Jeff Hare <<a removedlink__65a175df-0b17-4993-8903-f6ed0f18d1f5__href="mailto:Catalina at thehares.com">Catalina at thehares.com</a>> wrote:

> Free sound in the aft cabin?  I thought that's what the engine was for.
>
> -Jeff
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: C320-list <c320-list-<a removedlink__65a175df-0b17-4993-8903-f6ed0f18d1f5__href="mailto:bounces at lists.catalina320.com">bounces at lists.catalina320.com</a>> On Behalf Of
> Chris Nichols
> Sent: Wednesday, May 9, 2018 7:53 AM
> To: C320-<a removedlink__65a175df-0b17-4993-8903-f6ed0f18d1f5__href="mailto:List at Catalina320.com">List at Catalina320.com</a>
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Drilling stern rails
>
> Another thought is what we have - waterproof bulkhead mounted speakers on
> the sides of the cockpit footwell.
> One goes into the port locker and onbin the aft cabin with a teak box to
> back it.
>
> Nice thing is you get free sound in the aft cabin too!
> Chris
>
> > On 7 May 2018, at 14:33, Graeme Clark <<a removedlink__65a175df-0b17-4993-8903-f6ed0f18d1f5__href="mailto:cg at skyflyer.co.uk">cg at skyflyer.co.uk</a>> wrote:
> >
> > I chickened out on this task. I used cable ties to clamp the cable on
> the outside of the stainless stanchions then took a short loop to just
> beloiw where they attach to the deck and used a cable gland to makle a
> waterproof entry through the fiberglass hull on the transom. The wire is
> not exposed anywhere where it is likely to get caught by anything.  the
> whole job took about 15 minutes and I dont think I cursed once.
> >
> > Yes, running the wiring inside the stanchion is a lot neater but I bet
> 99% of visitors on your boat will neither notice nor comment.
> >
> > Graeme
> > #366
> >
> >> On 7 May 2018, at 13:44, Jeff Hare <<a removedlink__65a175df-0b17-4993-8903-f6ed0f18d1f5__href="mailto:Catalina at thehares.com">Catalina at thehares.com</a>> wrote:
> >>
> >> Hi All,
> >>
> >> Little more time now...  So, this only applies to those with the 2
> older style stern rails (ones without cup holders) and the next generation
> version that were about the same but had cup holders.  These have the stern
> rail seats with the "curved" vertical tube in the center of the stern rail
> seat vs the newer style that has a straight and more leaned back stern rail
> set.  This newer style seat is also on the MKII version...
> >>
> >> * We ran the wires into the horizontal tube below the seats (#1)
> towards the boarding ladder and down the nearest vertical tube (#2).
> >> * The vertical tube has no hole in it where the horizontal tube is
> welded to it.
> >> * The stanchion base plate (#3) also has no hole in it .
> >>
> >> We drilled into the end of the horizontal tube (#1) right at the point
> in the curve where there is a perfectly straight shot through that tube
> over towards and into the vertical tube (#2).  That's important since
> you'll need to use a long COBALT drill bit to reach through that hole and
> all the way over to the vertical (#2).
> >>
> >> Since it's on a curve, the drill-steady will make a round hole
> perpendicular to the tube but that's not the direction you'll need to drill
> to get the long drill bit to reach the vertical (#2).  But it'll help you
> with the pilot hole.  Consider that the hole drilled into the curve will
> end up more oval shape, so choose your starting point on the curve
> carefully.
> >>
> >> Once you get the long drill bit to go through that hole and hits the
> vertical (#2), you'll need to drill through so that the wires can then turn
> the corner and go down (#2).
> >>
> >> Final step was to go below and Really Carefully mark the spot dead
> center between the two stanchion bolts.  Then drill a pilot hole with a
> small diameter COBALT bit to come up through that base plate (#3).  Be very
> careful of the ANGLE you drill so you don't come up off center too far.
> >>
> >> If your language during this part of the project hasn't gotten you
> evicted from your marina yet, repeat for the other side...
> >>
> >> Be sure to use the marine wire that has a single pair of wires encased
> so that they will be protected against sharps edges when you feed them and
> you'll only have to feed a single wire each side.  I believe I had to fed a
> rather stiff wire with a loop on the end through (#1) until it went through
> the hole in the upright, then fed a long flexible wire UP through stanchion
> vertical (#2) until it hit the top (went through the loop). Then I  pulled
> that flexible chase wire back out where the speaker would mount.  That
> chase wire was used to feed the speaker wire through that path.  Be sure
> to use a large enough drill bit that the wire will easily travel through
> that hole...  May want to use some wire chase lubricant to make it run
> easier...
> >>
> >> Don't use Titanium or other cheapo bits.  New Cobalt bits are harder
> than stainless (if you don't overheat the stainless) and will start and
> drill easily.  Oil the bit frequently!!  Go slowly.
> >>
> >> It was not a fun project.  Hated every minute of it.  I'll come do
> yours for just about $1000.  As many of you know, I'm generally not afraid
> to tackle just about any boat project.  This one I could do without.
> >>
> >> -Jeff Hare
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: C320-list <c320-list-<a removedlink__65a175df-0b17-4993-8903-f6ed0f18d1f5__href="mailto:bounces at lists.catalina320.com">bounces at lists.catalina320.com</a>> On Behalf Of
> Troy Dunn
> >> Sent: Saturday, May 5, 2018 6:18 PM
> >> To: C320-<a removedlink__65a175df-0b17-4993-8903-f6ed0f18d1f5__href="mailto:List at catalina320.com">List at catalina320.com</a>
> >> Subject: [C320-list] Drilling stern rails
> >>
> >> Has anyone actually drilled their stern rails in order to install
> speakers beneath the princess seats?  I will be doing this modification and
> I’m wondering if the base at the deck  already has an opening centered on
> the vertical post or if I’ll be drilling stainless at the base.  Seems like
> it will be solid,  but kinda hoping it isn’t.
> >>
> >> Troy Dunn
> >> Hull #514
> >> S/V Wonky Dog
> >>
> >
>
>