[C320-list] Battery Charger Update

[Jeff Smith]

Jeff,


Thanks for the tips. I actually went to the store to get heat shrink tubing but audibled to the liquid tape because of its ability to make a waterproof connection. I have used it in the past on a buried TV Cable distribution line that got nicked.


Regarding the terminal block, I searched but did not see any 8AWG to 12AWG blocks. So, I am guessing you mean that I find a terminal block that has a stud size such that I can get an 8AWG with a ring connector and a 12AWG with a ring connector onto the stud? Then I should secure the covered terminal block to the bulkhead?


I am happy to report the 40AMP charger makes a big difference in terms of recharge time. Yesterday I was out for about 5 hours running refrigeration, full instrumentation, radio, lights, etc., and the batteries were back to full in significantly less than 2 hours.


Thanks again,


Jeff Smith


________________________________
From: C320-list <c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com> on behalf of Jeff Hare <Catalina at thehares.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2018 10:16 AM
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Battery Charger Update

Hi Jeff,

In the future, perhaps a better approach is to use covered terminal blocks
instead of soldering to reduce the wire size.  Crimp on heat shrink adhesive
filled ring terminals on the ends of each of the 8 and 12 wires and drop
them over a stud tighten the nut down and you can safely reduce a wire size
this way.

Generally speaking, soldering stranded wire isn't desirable in any
applications where there is vibration.  The spot where the loose strands
meet the rigid solder joint, they can begin to break off over time.  Secure
it and you'll probably be fine, but I think the terminal block is the right
way to go.

Also, if you're going to join wires, you should use adhesive line heat
shrink tubing instead of tape/liquid.  Put a length of the tubing over one
side of the wires first, do the soldering/crimping/whatever, then slide the
tubing over the joint and shrink it down.  My preference is to use CLEAR
adhesive filled shrink tubing so I can slip a label inside prior to
shrinking it.  Then I'll have a label on it that is protected and easy to
read.   Another tip is when labeling a wire where you're putting a terminal
on the end, to just use a 1" section of the clear tubing just to protect the
label.   Set it back a couple inches from the end of the wire (with the
label inside) so that if you need to replace the connector in the future,
you'll still have some room to cut off the old connector and put on a new
one without losing the label.

-Jeff Hare

-----Original Message-----
From: C320-list <c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com> On Behalf Of Jeff
Smith
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2018 10:15 PM
To: c320-list at lists.catalina320.com
Subject: [C320-list] Battery Charger Update

To all,


So the new battery charger is up and running. At least I think it is
running; it is so quiet you can't hear it (a welcome change from the
ferroresonant charger.) In fact, as of right now, it is supplying 13.3v and
6.5 amps.


A few issues:


  1.  My boat ('94) has what I think is 8 AWG A/C supply wires for the
battery charger. The Promariner Pronautic (1240P) requires 14 AWG (per the
installation guide). While I was not worried about stepping down in AWG
given the fuse on the circuit, there was no physical way to fit 8 AWG into
the install area. So, I soldered 12 AWG onto my 8 AWG and made the
connection that way. I also could not find (locally) any 8 AWG to 12 AWG
butt connectors, hence the solder. I was able to get snap ring connectors
for 12 AWG into the installation area.
  2.  It was suggested (and it was a good suggestion) that I mount plywood
to my original screws and then mount my new charger to the plywood (to
prevent drilling new holes). Unfortunately, the new charger is wider than
the old charger and it would not fit between the new bolts. So I drilled new
holes.
  3.  This is a head's up from my wiring misadventure. Because I soldered
the line (which is in my aft port locker), I did not want to simply use
electrical tape. I purchased a product that is called liquid electrical tape
and it makes a water-proof seal. The instructions said it would dry in five
minutes (for application of a second coat). I, however, did not read the
second part. I applied a second coat after five minutes and then put power
to it while tightening the mounting bolts. The liquid tape melted slightly
(on the line and neutral wires), the two wires touched, and I got a nice arc
that left a black mark on the fiberglass and tripped all of my circuit
breakers. Thankfully I was not touching it at the time. NOTE: The liquid
electrical tape dries to contact for re-application in five minutes but
fully cures in 24 hours.

All is well now, though. Thanks for all of the suggestions and help.

Cheers,
Jeff
'94, #121