[C320-list] Re Solar Panels

Wed Jun 12 10:23:25 PDT 2019

But I should have added that if your 12v batteries are connected in 
parallel then you have a 12 volt system. It would be 24 volts if they 
were connected in series, but then you would need to change pretty much 
every electrical device on board, so don't do that.

On 6/12/2019 1:21 PM, Scott Thompson wrote:
> Victron MPPT controllers automatically detect 12 v 24 volt systems.
>
> On 6/12/2019 10:00 AM, Ted Harrison wrote:
>> Dave, do you know if the unit recognizes 24 v system. I have my two 
>> 12v batteries in parallel.
>>
>> Ted Harrison
>> Hull 424 1997
>>
>>> On Jun 12, 2019, at 7:55 AM, Dave Chase <londoc at blackbury.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Wasn't able to permanent mount solar panels just yet, but FWIW I got 
>>> one of these units to lash to the deck/bimini out of the way and in 
>>> the best sun. It folds up into a stowable unit. It uses higher 
>>> efficiency cells and I replaced the PWM controller with a Victron 
>>> Blue Solar MPPT controller. Have gotten 97W from it just sitting on 
>>> the deck. I can't attest to durability just yet though.
>>>
>>> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074ZR3RNP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 
>>>
>>>
>>> Dave
>>> Indigo
>>> 1994 C320  #97
>>>
>>>
>>>> On 6/12/19 7:06 AM, sail-ability at sympatico.ca wrote:
>>>> I have a 180 watt Shuco panel installed on the dinghy davits. 
>>>> Hooked up to a Blue Sky controller. Largest consumer on our boat is 
>>>> the fridge. System keeps the batteries hard up on sunny days. I 
>>>> think a 250 watt panel wud work well even on cloudy days.
>>>> JohnM
>>>> 1999#574
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>
>>>>> On Jun 11, 2019, at 6:25 PM, Scott Thompson 
>>>>> <surprise at thompson87.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> The problem with that location is that it is under the boom, so it 
>>>>> likely is shaded when the sun is most directly overhead. Even a 
>>>>> small amount of shadowing can reduce output significantly, 
>>>>> depending on the shape and position of the shadow and how the 
>>>>> individual cells are wired. For example, I've noticed that the 
>>>>> shadow of a nearby mast can cut output to zero even though it 
>>>>> covers only a small amount of my solar array. This is why I went 
>>>>> with a location on the bimini aft of the boom, and am seeing 
>>>>> significantly better performance than you report.
>>>>>
>>>>> BTW, I most appreciate our bimini when it is raining! It might be 
>>>>> just the thing for Britain.
>>>>>
>>>>> Scott
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> On 6/11/2019 6:55 AM, Graeme Clark wrote:
>>>>>> Tom
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Obviously the performance of a solar panel will depend upon how 
>>>>>> much light falls on it! That in turn will depend on where you 
>>>>>> site it (in other words whether it gets shaded and if it is 
>>>>>> square-on to the sun) and the weather conditions where you keep 
>>>>>> the boat!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> However it might be helpful for you to know that having sited a 
>>>>>> 100w panel on the sliding hatch cover forward of the mainsheet 
>>>>>> traveller (which was a perfect fit) and using an MPPT controller, 
>>>>>> the very best we get from the panel when it is in full sun and 
>>>>>> unshaded is about 4amps at about 13v (in other words 52W or 52% 
>>>>>> of the ‘rated’ output). I think you would need very bright light 
>>>>>> that was absolutely square-on to the panel to better that.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Our refrigerator takes about 6 amps when it is running but of 
>>>>>> course it cycles on and off so I think probably only averages 3 
>>>>>> or 4 amps depending how hot the climate and how often you open 
>>>>>> the door!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The weather here in Britain is such that we don't really need a 
>>>>>> bimini, so my choice of siting was based around the options 
>>>>>> available without the cost of building a stainless steel support 
>>>>>> over the cockpit just for the panel(s)
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The real benefit - in my view - is that it’s “always working”, 
>>>>>> even when the light is poor. I know that if we have stayed aboard 
>>>>>> overnight and had the lights on and other electrical loads,  by 
>>>>>> the time we are up and moving about the next morning (we aren't 
>>>>>> early risers generally) the panel has already put a whole lot of 
>>>>>> power back into the battery.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Although the 100w panel isn't enough for the boat to be entirely 
>>>>>> self sustaining it really takes the edge off worrying about power 
>>>>>> consumption. Yes, you can still flatten your batteries if you 
>>>>>> don't think about what you're doing but you can go much much 
>>>>>> longer between needing to motor or hook up
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Hope that helps
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Graeme
>>>>>> “Jaskar”, 366, 1996. UK
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On 11 Jun 2019, at 07:09, Utility Email 
>>>>>>> <kswanson123 at comcast.net> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Tom,
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Last summer I installed a 125W Solbian Solar panel on the Bimini 
>>>>>>> of our Mark II with Fastex fasteners so it can be easily mounted 
>>>>>>> and removed when the Bimini is deployed.  The stainless steel 
>>>>>>> Fastex fasteners are very durable as they are typically used 
>>>>>>> with convertible tops.  We don’t have or use an inverter aside 
>>>>>>> from a small 12 automotive plug type of one from time to time.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> We have a loaded 2007 C320 MK II model (similar to yours) with 
>>>>>>> refrigeration in the ice box as well as the front loading WAECO 
>>>>>>> refrigerator.  I installed a Genesun MPPT solar controller 
>>>>>>> directly wired to the battery (fused of course) through our 
>>>>>>> Xantrex Link Pro battery monitor so we can see the amps 
>>>>>>> generated.  It works great.  I also installed the solar wiring 
>>>>>>> with a Hella 12 volt plug in the stern near the shore power 
>>>>>>> inlet so the panel can be removed and stowed easily under the 
>>>>>>> after berth.  We connected everything with loomed wiring and A4 
>>>>>>> connectors.  When deployed or stowed, you don’t even know the 
>>>>>>> 125 W panel is there.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The best part is that now instead of having to charge the 
>>>>>>> batteries with shore power or morning every three days, we can 
>>>>>>> go for a week without needing to charge if we are judicious 
>>>>>>> about the refrigeration that we use.  I also upgraded all of our 
>>>>>>> lighting, and we won’t use the icebox refrigerator (but still 
>>>>>>> use the front opening refrigerator) while at anchor to reduce 
>>>>>>> electrical demands.  We love the solar panel and the electrical 
>>>>>>> independence and freedom it provides.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Check out our install photos on our C320IA website.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> https://c320.org/mediagallery/album.php?page=1&aid=293
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Have fun with your install.  I used a lot of advice from the 
>>>>>>> Compass Marine website.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Dave Swanson
>>>>>>> S/V Emily Ann
>>>>>>> 2007 C320 MK II, No. 1107
>>>>>>> Mukilteo, WA
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Dave
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> David B. Swanson, P.E., S.E.
>>>>>>> Principal, LEED AP, F. SEI
>>>>>>> Executive Vice President
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Reid Middleton, Inc.
>>>>>>> Engineers | Planners | Surveyors
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Mobile:  (425) 508-7971
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> California Office
>>>>>>> 13220 Evening Creek Drive, Suite 115
>>>>>>> San Diego, CA  92128-4103
>>>>>>> Office: (858) 668-0707  | Fax:  (858) 513-2296
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Washington Office
>>>>>>> 728-134th Street SW, Suite 200
>>>>>>> Everett, WA  98204
>>>>>>> Office: (425) 741-3800 | Fax: (425) 741-3900
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> www.reidmiddleton.com
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Alaska | California | Hawaii | Washington
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Jun 10, 2019, at 6:24 PM, Tom Grass <tgrass462 at gmail.com> 
>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Need advice on solar panels and regulators.  We are thinking of 
>>>>>>>> installing
>>>>>>>> some panels on Bucket List.  How many watts did you install?  
>>>>>>>> Did the
>>>>>>>> install integrate well with your inverter?  Where did you mount 
>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>> panels?   Was the wiring a problem?  Any advise is 
>>>>>>>> appreciated.  Tom Grass
>>>>>>>> SV Bucket List. 2008 Catalina 320 MK II. #1135.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Sun, Jun 9, 2019, 11:51 AM Jack Brennan 
>>>>>>>> <jackbrennan at bellsouth.net>
>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Well, I’m finally done with replacing the cabin sole with 
>>>>>>>>> Lonseal teak and
>>>>>>>>> holly laminate. It was a success, but I have to say it was the 
>>>>>>>>> most
>>>>>>>>> meticulous, unforgiving project I’ve taken on in three major 
>>>>>>>>> refits of
>>>>>>>>> sailboats.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Some notes for anyone contemplating this project:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> • If I had to do it over again, I would choose the solid teak 
>>>>>>>>> pattern.
>>>>>>>>> Lining up the holly stripes is extremely difficult and time 
>>>>>>>>> consuming.
>>>>>>>>> Remember, there are five hatch covers for the bilge and six 
>>>>>>>>> separate floor
>>>>>>>>> sections in the cabin …
>>>>>>>>> • Thickened West System epoxy worked great. I mixed four 
>>>>>>>>> separate batches
>>>>>>>>> to keep it from hardening. First the V berth floor, then the 
>>>>>>>>> forward cabin
>>>>>>>>> area, followed by the large port and starboard sections in the 
>>>>>>>>> rest of the
>>>>>>>>> cabin.
>>>>>>>>> • An expensive, really sharp utility knife is your friend. 
>>>>>>>>> With a little
>>>>>>>>> practice, you can cut extremely accurate lines in the laminate 
>>>>>>>>> if you take
>>>>>>>>> your time.
>>>>>>>>> • Even if you plan on cutting a new underlayment for the 
>>>>>>>>> laminate, be
>>>>>>>>> careful to protect the old stuff when you remove it. Making 
>>>>>>>>> your own
>>>>>>>>> pattern without them would be very time consuming.
>>>>>>>>> • On my 320, small screws through the laminate hold the floor 
>>>>>>>>> underlayment
>>>>>>>>> to the subfloor. I chose to continue doing this, and it made 
>>>>>>>>> it much easier
>>>>>>>>> to cut and glue down the laminate. I would take up a couple of 
>>>>>>>>> screws, lay
>>>>>>>>> down the glue and rescrew the laminate down to the subfloor.
>>>>>>>>> • Lonseal comes in six-foot-wide sections. Ten feet, costing 
>>>>>>>>> about $400,
>>>>>>>>> is plenty.
>>>>>>>>> • Lastly, if you have a fat bank account, this really is a 
>>>>>>>>> project left to
>>>>>>>>> a floor professional. I did it myself to stretch my boat 
>>>>>>>>> budget and because
>>>>>>>>> I’m retired with plenty of time. My guess is that it would 
>>>>>>>>> cost 3K or so,
>>>>>>>>> based on $800 in material and $2,200 in labor.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Jack Brennan
>>>>>>>>> Sonas, 1998 Catalina 320, no. 528
>>>>>>>>> Tierra Verde, Fl. Dolphin Cruising Club of Tampa Bay.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>> -- 
>>>>> Scott Thompson
>>>>> Surprise, #653
>>>>>
>>>>
-- 
Scott Thompson
Surprise, #653