[C320-list] Re Solar Panels

[Dave Chase]

What Scott said....

I'd note that the hookup was incredibly simple. Panels-MPPT-Charge Bus. 
Just had to crimp MC4 connectors to the leads coming from the MPPT 
controller. I hung the MPPT controller out of the way in the cabin and 
power conversion is very efficient - virtually no heat at all from the 
controller.  The controller BT dongle allows monitoring of panel and 
charger voltage/current from my phone.

Dave
Indigo

1994 #97


On 6/12/19 1:23 PM, Scott Thompson wrote:
> But I should have added that if your 12v batteries are connected in 
> parallel then you have a 12 volt system. It would be 24 volts if they 
> were connected in series, but then you would need to change pretty 
> much every electrical device on board, so don't do that.
>
>
> On 6/12/2019 1:21 PM, Scott Thompson wrote:
>> Victron MPPT controllers automatically detect 12 v 24 volt systems.
>>
>> On 6/12/2019 10:00 AM, Ted Harrison wrote:
>>> Dave, do you know if the unit recognizes 24 v system. I have my two 
>>> 12v batteries in parallel.
>>>
>>> Ted Harrison
>>> Hull 424 1997
>>>
>>>> On Jun 12, 2019, at 7:55 AM, Dave Chase <londoc at blackbury.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Wasn't able to permanent mount solar panels just yet, but FWIW I 
>>>> got one of these units to lash to the deck/bimini out of the way 
>>>> and in the best sun. It folds up into a stowable unit. It uses 
>>>> higher efficiency cells and I replaced the PWM controller with a 
>>>> Victron Blue Solar MPPT controller. Have gotten 97W from it just 
>>>> sitting on the deck. I can't attest to durability just yet though.
>>>>
>>>> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074ZR3RNP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Dave
>>>> Indigo
>>>> 1994 C320  #97
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> On 6/12/19 7:06 AM, sail-ability at sympatico.ca wrote:
>>>>> I have a 180 watt Shuco panel installed on the dinghy davits. 
>>>>> Hooked up to a Blue Sky controller. Largest consumer on our boat 
>>>>> is the fridge. System keeps the batteries hard up on sunny days. I 
>>>>> think a 250 watt panel wud work well even on cloudy days.
>>>>> JohnM
>>>>> 1999#574
>>>>>
>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>
>>>>>> On Jun 11, 2019, at 6:25 PM, Scott Thompson 
>>>>>> <surprise at thompson87.com> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The problem with that location is that it is under the boom, so 
>>>>>> it likely is shaded when the sun is most directly overhead. Even 
>>>>>> a small amount of shadowing can reduce output significantly, 
>>>>>> depending on the shape and position of the shadow and how the 
>>>>>> individual cells are wired. For example, I've noticed that the 
>>>>>> shadow of a nearby mast can cut output to zero even though it 
>>>>>> covers only a small amount of my solar array. This is why I went 
>>>>>> with a location on the bimini aft of the boom, and am seeing 
>>>>>> significantly better performance than you report.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> BTW, I most appreciate our bimini when it is raining! It might be 
>>>>>> just the thing for Britain.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Scott
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On 6/11/2019 6:55 AM, Graeme Clark wrote:
>>>>>>> Tom
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Obviously the performance of a solar panel will depend upon how 
>>>>>>> much light falls on it! That in turn will depend on where you 
>>>>>>> site it (in other words whether it gets shaded and if it is 
>>>>>>> square-on to the sun) and the weather conditions where you keep 
>>>>>>> the boat!
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> However it might be helpful for you to know that having sited a 
>>>>>>> 100w panel on the sliding hatch cover forward of the mainsheet 
>>>>>>> traveller (which was a perfect fit) and using an MPPT 
>>>>>>> controller, the very best we get from the panel when it is in 
>>>>>>> full sun and unshaded is about 4amps at about 13v (in other 
>>>>>>> words 52W or 52% of the ‘rated’ output). I think you would need 
>>>>>>> very bright light that was absolutely square-on to the panel to 
>>>>>>> better that.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Our refrigerator takes about 6 amps when it is running but of 
>>>>>>> course it cycles on and off so I think probably only averages 3 
>>>>>>> or 4 amps depending how hot the climate and how often you open 
>>>>>>> the door!
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The weather here in Britain is such that we don't really need a 
>>>>>>> bimini, so my choice of siting was based around the options 
>>>>>>> available without the cost of building a stainless steel support 
>>>>>>> over the cockpit just for the panel(s)
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The real benefit - in my view - is that it’s “always working”, 
>>>>>>> even when the light is poor. I know that if we have stayed 
>>>>>>> aboard overnight and had the lights on and other electrical 
>>>>>>> loads,  by the time we are up and moving about the next morning 
>>>>>>> (we aren't early risers generally) the panel has already put a 
>>>>>>> whole lot of power back into the battery.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Although the 100w panel isn't enough for the boat to be entirely 
>>>>>>> self sustaining it really takes the edge off worrying about 
>>>>>>> power consumption. Yes, you can still flatten your batteries if 
>>>>>>> you don't think about what you're doing but you can go much much 
>>>>>>> longer between needing to motor or hook up
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Hope that helps
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Graeme
>>>>>>> “Jaskar”, 366, 1996. UK
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On 11 Jun 2019, at 07:09, Utility Email 
>>>>>>>> <kswanson123 at comcast.net> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Tom,
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Last summer I installed a 125W Solbian Solar panel on the 
>>>>>>>> Bimini of our Mark II with Fastex fasteners so it can be easily 
>>>>>>>> mounted and removed when the Bimini is deployed.  The stainless 
>>>>>>>> steel Fastex fasteners are very durable as they are typically 
>>>>>>>> used with convertible tops.  We don’t have or use an inverter 
>>>>>>>> aside from a small 12 automotive plug type of one from time to 
>>>>>>>> time.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> We have a loaded 2007 C320 MK II model (similar to yours) with 
>>>>>>>> refrigeration in the ice box as well as the front loading WAECO 
>>>>>>>> refrigerator.  I installed a Genesun MPPT solar controller 
>>>>>>>> directly wired to the battery (fused of course) through our 
>>>>>>>> Xantrex Link Pro battery monitor so we can see the amps 
>>>>>>>> generated.  It works great.  I also installed the solar wiring 
>>>>>>>> with a Hella 12 volt plug in the stern near the shore power 
>>>>>>>> inlet so the panel can be removed and stowed easily under the 
>>>>>>>> after berth.  We connected everything with loomed wiring and A4 
>>>>>>>> connectors.  When deployed or stowed, you don’t even know the 
>>>>>>>> 125 W panel is there.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> The best part is that now instead of having to charge the 
>>>>>>>> batteries with shore power or morning every three days, we can 
>>>>>>>> go for a week without needing to charge if we are judicious 
>>>>>>>> about the refrigeration that we use.  I also upgraded all of 
>>>>>>>> our lighting, and we won’t use the icebox refrigerator (but 
>>>>>>>> still use the front opening refrigerator) while at anchor to 
>>>>>>>> reduce electrical demands.  We love the solar panel and the 
>>>>>>>> electrical independence and freedom it provides.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Check out our install photos on our C320IA website.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> https://c320.org/mediagallery/album.php?page=1&aid=293
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Have fun with your install.  I used a lot of advice from the 
>>>>>>>> Compass Marine website.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Dave Swanson
>>>>>>>> S/V Emily Ann
>>>>>>>> 2007 C320 MK II, No. 1107
>>>>>>>> Mukilteo, WA
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Dave
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> David B. Swanson, P.E., S.E.
>>>>>>>> Principal, LEED AP, F. SEI
>>>>>>>> Executive Vice President
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Reid Middleton, Inc.
>>>>>>>> Engineers | Planners | Surveyors
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Mobile:  (425) 508-7971
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> California Office
>>>>>>>> 13220 Evening Creek Drive, Suite 115
>>>>>>>> San Diego, CA  92128-4103
>>>>>>>> Office: (858) 668-0707  | Fax:  (858) 513-2296
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Washington Office
>>>>>>>> 728-134th Street SW, Suite 200
>>>>>>>> Everett, WA  98204
>>>>>>>> Office: (425) 741-3800 | Fax: (425) 741-3900
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> www.reidmiddleton.com
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Alaska | California | Hawaii | Washington
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On Jun 10, 2019, at 6:24 PM, Tom Grass <tgrass462 at gmail.com> 
>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Need advice on solar panels and regulators.  We are thinking 
>>>>>>>>> of installing
>>>>>>>>> some panels on Bucket List.  How many watts did you install?  
>>>>>>>>> Did the
>>>>>>>>> install integrate well with your inverter?  Where did you 
>>>>>>>>> mount the
>>>>>>>>> panels?   Was the wiring a problem?  Any advise is 
>>>>>>>>> appreciated.  Tom Grass
>>>>>>>>> SV Bucket List. 2008 Catalina 320 MK II. #1135.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On Sun, Jun 9, 2019, 11:51 AM Jack Brennan 
>>>>>>>>> <jackbrennan at bellsouth.net>
>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Well, I’m finally done with replacing the cabin sole with 
>>>>>>>>>> Lonseal teak and
>>>>>>>>>> holly laminate. It was a success, but I have to say it was 
>>>>>>>>>> the most
>>>>>>>>>> meticulous, unforgiving project I’ve taken on in three major 
>>>>>>>>>> refits of
>>>>>>>>>> sailboats.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Some notes for anyone contemplating this project:
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> • If I had to do it over again, I would choose the solid teak 
>>>>>>>>>> pattern.
>>>>>>>>>> Lining up the holly stripes is extremely difficult and time 
>>>>>>>>>> consuming.
>>>>>>>>>> Remember, there are five hatch covers for the bilge and six 
>>>>>>>>>> separate floor
>>>>>>>>>> sections in the cabin …
>>>>>>>>>> • Thickened West System epoxy worked great. I mixed four 
>>>>>>>>>> separate batches
>>>>>>>>>> to keep it from hardening. First the V berth floor, then the 
>>>>>>>>>> forward cabin
>>>>>>>>>> area, followed by the large port and starboard sections in 
>>>>>>>>>> the rest of the
>>>>>>>>>> cabin.
>>>>>>>>>> • An expensive, really sharp utility knife is your friend. 
>>>>>>>>>> With a little
>>>>>>>>>> practice, you can cut extremely accurate lines in the 
>>>>>>>>>> laminate if you take
>>>>>>>>>> your time.
>>>>>>>>>> • Even if you plan on cutting a new underlayment for the 
>>>>>>>>>> laminate, be
>>>>>>>>>> careful to protect the old stuff when you remove it. Making 
>>>>>>>>>> your own
>>>>>>>>>> pattern without them would be very time consuming.
>>>>>>>>>> • On my 320, small screws through the laminate hold the floor 
>>>>>>>>>> underlayment
>>>>>>>>>> to the subfloor. I chose to continue doing this, and it made 
>>>>>>>>>> it much easier
>>>>>>>>>> to cut and glue down the laminate. I would take up a couple 
>>>>>>>>>> of screws, lay
>>>>>>>>>> down the glue and rescrew the laminate down to the subfloor.
>>>>>>>>>> • Lonseal comes in six-foot-wide sections. Ten feet, costing 
>>>>>>>>>> about $400,
>>>>>>>>>> is plenty.
>>>>>>>>>> • Lastly, if you have a fat bank account, this really is a 
>>>>>>>>>> project left to
>>>>>>>>>> a floor professional. I did it myself to stretch my boat 
>>>>>>>>>> budget and because
>>>>>>>>>> I’m retired with plenty of time. My guess is that it would 
>>>>>>>>>> cost 3K or so,
>>>>>>>>>> based on $800 in material and $2,200 in labor.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Jack Brennan
>>>>>>>>>> Sonas, 1998 Catalina 320, no. 528
>>>>>>>>>> Tierra Verde, Fl. Dolphin Cruising Club of Tampa Bay.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>> -- 
>>>>>> Scott Thompson
>>>>>> Surprise, #653
>>>>>>
>>>>>