[C320-list] Fresh Water Engine Flush

Thu Sep 5 13:05:28 PDT 2019

Ahoy.....I do the same to mine, except I use vodka, gin, or any clear alcohol I can find when we go yard sailing......works great! Joe  n Beth...#245 
> On September 3, 2019 at 5:26 PM Artstree at aol.com wrote:
> 
> 
> After draining the tanks, I have a two-step process where I use a small air compressor to blow out the water system from the galley sink to the head sink. I do have the water heater blocked off, you can drain the water heater through the drain valve with the air backpressure. However, it takes a while in the spring to get all the air out of the water heater. I then run two gallons of pink through each tank with the WH still blocked off, but I crack the valve to get some antifreeze into the WH to mix with any residual water in the bottom.
> 
> Then re-purge everything with air. 
> 
> In the Spring I pump 2 gallons  through each tank about 3 times to get rid of any pink in the tank and then purge the rest of the system with a water supply connection. In a similar manor as the air pressure.
> 
> Don't forget the cockpit shower.
> 
> Just food for thought.
> 
> Art Harden
> Tortuga -Catalina 320
> 937-477-5544
> Sandusky, OH
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: C320-list <c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com> On Behalf Of Ted Harrison
> Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2019 2:34 PM
> To: C320-List at catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Fresh Water Engine Flush
> 
> I use the green non-toxic. It has a higher ratting that the pink. 
> 
> I also vacuum out the water lines and the heater. 
> 
> I collect the green in a bucket in spring and dispose of accordingly. 
> 
> Been doing this for 6 years now with no problems 
> 
> Ted Harrison
> Hull 424 1997
> Lake Ontario - Whitby Yacht Club 
> 
> > On Sep 3, 2019, at 2:20 PM, Gus Macdonald <rathlyn1 at gmail.com> wrote:
> > 
> > Good discussion on this subject.  As an aside and a question for John—when winterizing, do you use an automotive type ethylene glycol anti-freeze in the “fresh water” cooling circuit or a non-toxic type anti-freeze (usually pink)?  I have asked many people this in the Great Lakes  area and the responses are about 50/50.  Naturally if the ethylene glycol type is used it must be removed before the boat goes back in the water in the spring to avoid pollution.
> > 
> > Gus
> > Hull #999
> > Georgian Bay
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >> On Sep 3, 2019, at 12:23 PM, John Meyers <jcmeyers7 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >> 
> >> Like Christian, I also have a Tee for antifreeze here on the 
> >> (Unsalted and Shark Free) Great Lakes. I put my Tee just after the 
> >> thru hull and before the strainer so that the antifreeze is also in 
> >> the strainer. Not that it makes much of a difference but my thru hull 
> >> outputs forward which makes it slightly easier to attach the short 
> >> hose to the bucket of antifreeze in the cockpit.
> >> 
> >> John Meyers
> >> Wind Chime #406
> >> Muskegon, MI
> >> 
> >>> On Tue, Sep 3, 2019 at 11:25 AM Christian <ccaper at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>> 
> >>> Bob,
> >>> I have done this for winterizing my boat to flush out water and get 
> >>> anti-freeze in the system.  I installed the t-fitting last fall.
> >>> 
> >>> Here is the t-fitting I ordered, available at Walmart for $1.67.
> >>> 
> >>> https://www.walmart.com/ip/LASCO-Fem-Tee-Insert-x-FNPT-3-4-In-PVC-14
> >>> 02007/406982633
> >>> 
> >>> Take this t-fitting to Home Depot, and in the pvc section get the 
> >>> male end cap, matched to the threads in t-fitting.  You will want 
> >>> this end cap in the t-fitting during normal boat use, and use some 
> >>> teflon tape on this threads as well.  Then, go to the plumbing 
> >>> section and get a male PVC to male garden hose adapter that will 
> >>> convert the threads to a garden hose thread.  This allows you to connect a garden hose to your raw water line.
> >>> Mine was a metal adapter.  Also get hose clamps for 3/4" hose, 
> >>> you'll need at least 2. I recommend 4, 2 on each side of the 
> >>> t-fitting, each one flipped 180 for redundancy.
> >>> 
> >>> All parts will be less than $15 total.  You'll also need auto hose 
> >>> cutters, and a likely a wire cutter at that hose has re-enforced 
> >>> wire you'll need to cut where hose cutter couldn't cut through.
> >>> 
> >>> When you want to use the t-fitting, connect the garden hose to the 
> >>> t-fitting, pass the hose through a port light opening, have a bucket 
> >>> in the cockpit, put other end of hose in bucket, and CLOSE through 
> >>> hull for raw water intake.  Start engine, and just mind you don't 
> >>> run out of water in the bucket and that hose is at bottom of bucket 
> >>> and hasn't floated to the top, only sucking in air.  Nice thing 
> >>> about this is you can also easily start engine on land when needed.
> >>> 
> >>> I've included a link to two pictures I took when I did this.  Don't 
> >>> make the same location mistake I made, and put the t-fitting right 
> >>> under the Racor filter, as now I have a difficult time draining my 
> >>> racor (I plan to adjust that this fall during haul out).
> >>> 
> >>> https://www.instagram.com/p/BorFrCCDV3B/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
> >>> 
> >>> Hope this helps.
> >>> 
> >>> Christian Caperton
> >>> 1994 C320 "Canuck" #138
> >>> Monroe Harbor, Chicago, IL
> >>> 
> >>>> On Tue, Sep 3, 2019 at 10:00 AM Bob Hoyt <rehoyt at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>>> 
> >>>> A diesel mechanic recommended that I flush the raw water side of 
> >>>> the
> >>> engine
> >>>> with fresh water when not using the boat for more than 2 weeks. 
> >>>> This
> >>> would
> >>>> require installing a barbed tee piece between the strainer and the 
> >>>> water pump. Has anyone done this as I didn't find it in the forum archives?
> >>> Also,
> >>>> I live in Florida so I don't need to do this as part of winterizing.
> >>> Thanks
> >>>> 
> >>>> Bob Hoyt
> >>>> "Ikigai"
> >>>> !994 Hull #58
> >>>> Pensacola, FL
> >>>> 
> >>>> --
> >>>> 
> >>>> *Robert (Bob) Hoyt MD, FACP, ABPM-CI*
> >>>> 
> >>>> *Associate Clinical Professor, Department of Internal Medicine*
> >>>> 
> >>>> *Virginia Commonwealth University*
> >>>> 
> >>>> *Richmond, VA*
> >>>> 
> >>>> 
> >>>> *CAPT (Ret) USN*
> >>>> 
> >>>> 
> >>>> 
> >>> *-------------------------------------------------------------------
> >>> --------------------------*
> >>>> 
> >>>> *Adjunct Associate Professor, College of Allied Health Professions*
> >>>> 
> >>>> *University of Nebraska Medical Center*
> >>>> 
> >>>> *Omaha, NE*
> >>>> 
> >>>> *Diplomate, Clinical Informatics*
> >>>> 
> >>>> InformaticsEducation.org  <http://InformaticsEducation.org> 
> >>>> rehoyt at gmail.com
> >>>> 
> >>>> robert.hoyt at unmc.edu <robert.hoyt at unmd.edu>
> >>>> 
> >>>> robert.hoyt at vcuhealth.org
> >>>> 
> >>>> Cell: 850-384-5235
> >>>> 
> >>> 
> > 
>