[C320-list] Starter Battery and Echo Charger

Greg Flanagan greg.flanagan at shaw.ca
Tue Aug 11 23:04:12 PDT 2020


I also had just the 2 X 4D battery system with the A/B switch when I bought Hoop Dancer in 2006. After a couple of years I was having trouble starting after a few days at anchor.  I then installed an independent starter battery. It is in the port stern locker close to the centre line in a battery box. The cables run from there directly to the engine through the channel under the berth boards. The positive cable goes through a switch on the side of the bed (in the foot well) near the aft engine cowl. This placement also means I can shut off the power to the engine when I close the raw water seacock. I switch it on when I reopen the raw water. This solves a problem recently discussed where sometimes the engine is started with it the raw water closed and overheating happens.  

The starter battery is a marine diehard battery (not deep cycle). It is charged with a Xantrex (http://www.xantrex.com/power-products/power-accessories/auxiliary-battery-charger.aspx) echo charger. This has been working fine for ~12 years. As I prefer to anchor and would never run the engine just to charge a battery. I very early adopted solar. My initial panel was a GoPower 160W with their controller, which kept me out of trouble but not completely worry free. A few years ago I added a couple of flexible Renology 100W panels. Now I have surplus energy and this year my battery never went done to less than 85% overnight (I have a Balmar Smartgauge). I do not plug in to shore power all season even in my home dock. I now also have a Torqeedo electric outboard (another great story) and when the house battery is charged I charge this battery with power that would otherwise be dumped by the solar controller. I am very satisfied with my whole system and will be putting in an inverter to be able to use my toaster too!

Cheers,

Greg
Hoop Dancer #1076
Sidney, BC
PS I have the same refrigerator and your calculation is correct. I converted all my lights to LEDs when I went solar so yes it is the greatest house draw. When sailing though the chart-plotter, auto pilot, radar etc. have high draws.

> On Aug 11, 2020, at 9:08 PM, Sara Skinner Schroeder <saras951 at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> My 2000 C20 has two 4D deep cycle batteries. I figure I have about 190amp hr capacity for each which if they are not discharged more than 50% I have about 80amp hrs each. She has never had a starter battery. After a weekend rafting with friends I did some analysis on my battery usage. It goes without saying that the refrigeration was the biggest draw. I got nervous that the batteries would not have enough CCA to start the engine so I turned off the refer the night before heading home. I did charge the batteries for a few hours on day 2 but was still not comfortable with how fast the batteries were being depleted. I have a few, somewhat unrelated questions, as I figure out what’s going to be added to the boat next.
> 1. What kind and size of starter battery do you recommend. Where did you put it?
> 2. What kind of echo charger do you recommend.
> 3. My 20 yr old Adler Barber refrigerator compressor is drawing 5.5amps at a setting of 4-5. Does that seem reasonable? I’m wondering if the compressor is starting to fail. It works great and I always have ice but I have no idea how long they usually last.
> 4. I’m also thinking of getting a solar panel I can throw on the deck to help with battery charging at anchor. Does anyone do this?
> 
> This stuff is still smoke-and-mirrors to me so I appreciate the input. Finally, my last post was about the installation of my Raymarine autopilot. Thanks to Jack Brennan’s advice and instructions it’s up and running! I even replaced the steering cable while I had it all torn apart. Whew!!! 
> Sara 
> Wandering Star 
> 2000/#707
> 
> Sent from my iPad


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