[C320-list] Heat Exchanger Removal - Perkins M30

[Mark Cole]

Hi, Jeff;

I pulled out the heat exchanger of my Perkins M30 a couple of years ago.  The heat exchanger was beautifully clean with only a couple pieces of old water pump impeller at the front.  Just to be sure, I took it to a local radiator shop and had it pressure checked to make sure there was no cross flow between the raw water and antifreeze side.  It tested perfect.  I also changed the black end caps.  I got them from Part4Engines in England.  They have all the parts for Perkins engines.

I would suggest having someone help when you put the caps back on the heat exchanger.  The one on the back of the engine is a real bear because the the small connection to the mixing elbow is a very tight bend and I kept pushing the heat exchanger forward trying to get the rear cap on.  A helper can make sure the heat exchanger is in the correct position when you tighten the hose clamps on the rear cap.

If you are chasing down an overheating problem, I would suggest skipping the heat exchanger and going straight to the mixing elbow.  That turned out to be the problem with my M30 overheating.  I replaced the mixing elbow after pulling it off and finding it half restricted with scale.  After replacing it, I’ve had no more overheating problems.  I also got the new mixing elbow from Parts4Engines and it and the two end caps ran a little less than $400.00.  The new mixing elbow is stainless steel so may last a little longer before scaling up.

Good liuck!

Mark Cole
Fiddler’s Green #8

> On Mar 10, 2020, at 12:44 PM, BILL CARR <bcarr8239 at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> I can attest to the importance of a free flowing exhaust system. I replaced my Perkins with a new Volvo due to the elbow restriction causing damage to  my M30 with only 1100 hours. I love the performance of the new Volvo however I would have preferred not paying for a repower.
> Bill
> Utopia C320 #31 
>> On March 10, 2020 at 6:03 AM appleton1 at yahoo.com wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> While you’re at it, disconnect the mixing elbow from the exhaust manifold and check for internal rust.
>> The part is a heavy casting and, unlike those on lesser engines, will not rust through but rather rust internally, to the point that it chokes the engine. The 2-in.-dia. port to the muffler becomes 1/8 in. dia., or smaller!
>> Ask me how I know...
>> - Joe Jablonowski
>> C320 #103
>> 
>> ============================   
>> 
>>> On Mar 10, 2020, at 8:44 AM, Jeff Smith <jeffreyssmith at live.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> To all,
>>> 
>>> I apologize in advance if this has been discussed. I searched the archives and did not see a thread. Does anyone have a simple heat exchanger removal checklist or set of instructions? I would like to remove my heat exchanger and clean it. Additionally, my plan is to soak it in a 5 gallon bucket using barnacle buster or something similar. Any thoughts on that, as well? Are there other alternatives that work well that are less expensive?
>>> 
>>> Thanks in advance,
>>> 
>>> Jeff Smith
>>> S/V Sailmates, #121, ‘94
>>