[C320-list] Boom Repairs for C320

[Christian]

Holly,
if it helps you price this job, I had my rigger (Chicago) do this job just
before last season.  Here was my price breakdown:
Remove end fittings on boom and repair/service: 2.5 hrs @ $125.00 hr =
$312.50
New line (3/8" 19') @ $1.14 a foot = $21.66
New line (7/16" 87') @$1.44 a foot = $125.28
4 NB2-10 Isomat Boom Sheaves $32.99 each = $131.96
Total $633.01.

Expense hurt a little, but I didn't have an operating reef system, and am
relieved to have this working now.  Almost half of my costs was in line and
new sheaves.

Christian Caperton
1994 C320 #138 "Canuck"
Monroe Harbor, Chicago, IL

On Mon, May 4, 2020 at 11:00 AM HOLLY DAVIS <hdavis787 at hotmail.com> wrote:

> My boat has an end cap that is riveted on. 1995
>
>
> > On May 4, 2020, at 7:20 AM, Chris White <chriswhite252000 at yahoo.co.uk>
> wrote:
> >
> >  You can get the floating block out of the boom by lifting out the
> pulleys at the ends. They are on a common shaft.I dispensed with the
> floating pulley arrangement and simply ran a 10mm line through the boom as
> an out haul.It works fine.Be careful not to cross over the three lines
> inside the boom, because when tightened they will jam each
> other.RegardsChris White#449 1997
> >
> >    On Monday, 4 May 2020, 13:19:39 BST, John morrison <
> sail-ability at sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >
> > On my boat ,a 1999 the outhaul end of the boom just rests on an axle in
> a slot. Releasing the pressure on the lines coming out allow you to pull
> out the sleeve assembly to be removed. Everything else can then be pulled
> through. Might be different on a 1996?
> > Cheers
> > JohnM
> > 1999#574
> >> On May 4, 2020, at 3:43 AM, Graeme Clark <cg at skyflyer.co.uk> wrote:
> >>
> >> Assuming it’s the same as my 1996, you’ll have to drill out the rivets
> and remove the casting at the end of the boom because the eye at either end
> of the wire is too big to pass through it.
> >>
> >> Drilling out rivets can be “fun” if they start to spin in their holes.
> If so I take a small center punch and just ping the edge of the rivet
> flange which normally holds it.
> >>
> >> Use Monel rivets to replace, to avoid corrosion issues with dissimilar
> metals.
> >>
> >> If you don’t have or can’t borrow a rivet gun, it’s a job you may
> prefer to leave to your local rigger though
> >>
> >> Graeme
> >> 1996, #366
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPad
> >>
> >>>> On 4 May 2020, at 01:39, HOLLY DAVIS <hdavis787 at hotmail.com> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> I need to replace the out haul on my 1995 320.  I am looking for any
> tips. My adjustment line is shot. Inside the boom, this line attaches to a
> wire, which exits the boom and is attached to the clew.
> >>> thank you for any suggestions.
> >>>
> >>> Holly Davis
> >>>
> >>> Honu 1995
> >>>> On Apr 27, 2018, at 8:56 AM, Scott Thompson <surprise at thompson87.com>
> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> You have gotten a few responses about the reef line but none about
> the outhaul. Replacing the outhaul line is on my "to do" list for this
> Spring. The standard outhaul is a 3 to one purchase. The "adjustment line"
> (the one you pull) enters at the gooseneck, runs to a floating block inside
> the boom, then forward to a fixed block inside the boom at the gooseneck
> end, then back to the floating block, where it is tied off on a becket.
> This gives a 3 to one purchase on the floating block. There is a second
> line tied to the shackle of the floating block that exits the aft end of
> the boom for tying off at the clew of the mainsail. The best way to replace
> the adjustment line is to use the second line (the one that attaches to the
> sail) to pull the floating block close to the aft end of the boom, where
> you can grab and extract it through the end. You then have access to both
> ends of the adjustment line, and can use the old line to pull a new one
> through. For this to work, the adjustment line needs to be at least 3 times
> the length of the boom. If it has been shortened you may need to attach a
> messenger line to the end that goes into the forward end of the boom in
> order to lengthen it enough so that you can extract the floating block from
> the aft end of the boom.
> >>>>
> >>>> It may help you to take a look at page 13 of the "Mast & Boom
> Handbook" at https://c320.org/filemgmt/visit.php?lid=49 which shows the
> basic hardware. As pictured, the left side of the photo would be the aft
> end of the boom and the right side would be the mast end. Block 1 in that
> picture is the floating block and block 2 is the fixed block. The line
> pictured is what I've called the "adjustment line." The line that connects
> the floating block to the sail is not pictured, but would attach to the
> shackle of block 1. The only way to access block 2 is to take apart the
> boom, which is a big deal.
> >>>>
> >>>> Scott Thompson
> >>>>
> >>>> Surprise, #653 (1999)
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>> On 4/26/2018 4:58 PM, millers1 at aol.com wrote:
> >>>>> I have a 2000, #680, non-furling Main Boom.
> >>>>> Looked on the discussion site, not much on the boom  and  the sketch
> supplied by Catalina
> >>>>> is marginal....
> >>>>> Has anyone re-run the reef lines and out haul line in the
> boom???.... any sketches ??
> >>>>> Thanks
> >>>>> Art
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> -----Original Message-----
> >>>>> From: John Morrison <sail-ability at sympatico.ca>
> >>>>> To: C320-List <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
> >>>>> Sent: Mon, Apr 23, 2018 7:21 am
> >>>>> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Dinghy Hard bottom Aluminum vs. Fiberglass
> open ended question
> >>>>>
> >>>>> AL clearly the way to go. I have a Walker Bay rib which has the ABS
> Hull very rugged but for a similar sized AL rib it’s about 30lb heavier.
> Also I went with the hypalon tubes instead of the PVC. Unless the dinghy is
> continually in the Sun PVC is just fine. I’ve been looking at the Highfield
> products and wud buy one of them.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> On Apr 23, 2018, at 5:03 AM, Scott Westwood <
> scottwestwood at bellsouth.net> wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> We are starting to do homework on replacing our dinghy once/if  we
> get davits.
> >>>>>> We are leaning towards hard bottom dinghy and hearing pros and cons
> of Aluminum vs fiberglass.
> >>>>>> Any thoughts out there?
> >>>>>> So far, we are hearing that Aluminum is lighter.  Not much else yet.
> >>>>>> Thanks,
> >>>>>> Scott Westwood scottwestwood at bellsouth.net H (919)-362-8538    C
> (919)-618-7185
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>
> >
>