[C320-list] Cutless Bearing Project

[Jeff Smith]

Troy,

Sorry if this reply is too late. I was over at the boat this weekend installing my injection pump so it gave me a chance to refamiliarize myself with the project.

I followed these procedures pretty closely. https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=dripless+shaft+seal+installation#kpvalbx=_QgS8X4PuCuTrxgHu5YG4CQ18 I especially like the fact that the gentlemen says to “put some welly on it”, a phrase I now use. I did what he suggested, which is to mark the plate that couples the shaft to the transmission. Then, once I removed this shaft coupler from the transmission plate (coupler), I used a standard automotive 2-jaw puller to remove the coupler from the shaft. I do not see any reason you could not do the two jobs separately. I viewed it as maintaining my drivetrain, so I did all three at the same time (grease the prop, replace the bellows, replace the cutless bearing). This gave me piece of mine, at least for the bellows and bearing. Now I simply grease the prop when I haul the boat. Ostensibly I could pay a diver to grease it in the water.

I would suggest you call them regarding the spacer. I am interested to know which kit you ultimately buy and if you needed a spacer. It is possible I bought the wrong kit, but the fact that my existing bellows had the spacer suggests that is not the case.

Jeff




> On Nov 12, 2020, at 6:57 PM, Troy Dunn <troutwarrior at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Jeff-
> 
> Honestly I just haven't really researched how to "disconnect the shaft from
> the coupler" per your suggestion.   I sorta assumed that meant using a
> coupler puller to push the shaft off the coupler... you see...what happened
> was....
> 
> I read your response above, jotted a note, thought about researching right
> away, got distracted by CMAs, then heard YouTube took a sabbatical last
> night anyhow and patted myself on the back for making such a wise choice.
>  I'll be checking into this more tonight assuming YouTube isn't in some
> sort of malware ransomware jail.   I am curious though...is the approach to
> slide "just the shaft" out far enough to get the bellows off the shaft but
> to leave the actual coupler in place on the transmission?  If so...is it
> also safe to assume this can be accomplished with the bearing in place and
> the prop on or is not feasible to slide the shaft back far enough?  Said a
> different way...are these projects really related at all?
> 
> On the topic of "fit".   I checked out PYI's website and it appears there
> is no shim offered to get to the 1-5/8" stern tube diameter; the suggestion
> there appears to be to buy a bellows that supposedly fits the range from
> 1-1/2" to 1-5/8".  Sounds like I might need to call them?
> 
> Joe-
> 
> My inspections to date have been pretty cursory.   I'll get out my good
> flashlight and mirror and see what's what with the bellows.   I assume I'm
> looking for basic crumbling etc.    Is there a "squeeze" test to determine
> how good a shape the rubber is in?  I don't have a new bellows to compare
> it to....
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Troy
> 
> On Thu, Nov 12, 2020 at 4:21 PM Joe Luciano <jnluciano at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
>> I think that if you altered the alignment negatively, you would experience
>> increased vibration / noise at certain rpm’s.  If there is no change in the
>> amount of vibration or noise, I wouldn’t spend the time and money to do an
>> alignment.  Also, I can vouch for inspecting the bellows on a PYI shaft
>> seal before doing a time based replacement at 6 years.  My bellows is now
>> 15 years old and going strong.  I inspect it on haulouts and clean it up,
>> checking for cracks and tightness of the clamps.  My bellows doesn’t look
>> much different than the day it went in, so I think their recommendation is
>> very conservative and likely based on some legal recommendations from the
>> company lawyer rather than a factual deterioration.  Just my opinion….
>> 
>> Joe Luciano
>> Second Wind
>> #1024
>>> On Nov 12, 2020, at 12:58 PM, Jeff Smith <jeffreyssmith at live.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Troy,
>>> 
>>> Quick question for you. Why are you pulling the coupler? I disconnected
>> the shaft from the coupler and slid the shaft aft far enough that I could
>> remove the bellows and install the new bellows with the spacer. I am asking
>> my question because I wondered at the time if I needed to go back through
>> an alignment procedure. I decided that I did not because I was simply
>> moving the shaft forward and aft but that it was maintaining the same
>> plane, because I did not mess with any of the engine mounts. Did I err in
>> my thinking? This will be important to me, as I plan to haul out in the
>> spring to paint the bottom. Now I am wondering if I need to check the
>> alignment of my shaft.
>>> 
>>> Jeff
>>> #121, ‘94
>>> 
>>>> On Nov 11, 2020, at 8:41 PM, Troy Dunn <troutwarrior at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Thanks for the inputs folks.   I was initially just concerned about
>>>> scheduling the tools.   I was planning to hit the set screws and prop
>> nuts
>>>> with PB blaster a few times starting this weekend and getting those out
>>>> and/or loose before getting to the main event.   But darn it
>> all...Jeff's
>>>> thoughts on the PSS had me cruising over to the PSS site and wouldn’t ya
>>>> know it...6 years is the recommended replacement interval.   Seems like
>> a
>>>> conservatively low number to me however I have no idea how old the
>> bellows
>>>> is so as much as I wanted to avoid the snowball effect, it's looking
>> like I
>>>> need to pull the coupler and at that point I may as well go ahead and
>>>> attempt a full alignment, here's hoping all my engine mounts are
>> actually
>>>> still in great shape....let the snowball roll.
>>>> 
>>>> Off to read the coupler puller manual...yay me!
>>>> 
>>>> Cheers
>>>> 
>>>> Troy
>>> 
>> 
>>