[C320-list] Cutless Bearing Project

[Troy Dunn]

Jeff-

Not too late..   I did decide to break this up into two projects but I may
do them both before i splash the boat in the spring.  My bearing is
supposed to arrive later this week along with the gasket material for my
trapezoidal hatch lens which is a whole other project.  A couple of weeks
back I went down to the boat to attempt to see if I could get the prop nut
to budge with just a wrench, a two by four and my Propylene torch.  Just a
wrench was no bueno, and my torch head was leaking..so i had to get that
replaced, fortunately there is a lifetime warranty on those torch heads.
 After another week of research I ended up borrowing a buddies impact
wrench and a six point impact socket.   I hit the nut with maybe 15 seconds
of torch and then with the impact wrench.   Worked like a charm.    Now i
just need to get the bearing and line up the loaner tools.

Thanks for the link.

Troy
Hull #514

On Mon, Nov 23, 2020 at 2:08 PM Jeff Smith <jeffreyssmith at live.com> wrote:

> Troy,
>
> Sorry if this reply is too late. I was over at the boat this weekend
> installing my injection pump so it gave me a chance to refamiliarize myself
> with the project.
>
> I followed these procedures pretty closely.
> https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=dripless+shaft+seal+installation#kpvalbx=_QgS8X4PuCuTrxgHu5YG4CQ18
> I especially like the fact that the gentlemen says to “put some welly on
> it”, a phrase I now use. I did what he suggested, which is to mark the
> plate that couples the shaft to the transmission. Then, once I removed this
> shaft coupler from the transmission plate (coupler), I used a standard
> automotive 2-jaw puller to remove the coupler from the shaft. I do not see
> any reason you could not do the two jobs separately. I viewed it as
> maintaining my drivetrain, so I did all three at the same time (grease the
> prop, replace the bellows, replace the cutless bearing). This gave me piece
> of mine, at least for the bellows and bearing. Now I simply grease the prop
> when I haul the boat. Ostensibly I could pay a diver to grease it in the
> water.
>
> I would suggest you call them regarding the spacer. I am interested to
> know which kit you ultimately buy and if you needed a spacer. It is
> possible I bought the wrong kit, but the fact that my existing bellows had
> the spacer suggests that is not the case.
>
> Jeff
>
>
>
>
> > On Nov 12, 2020, at 6:57 PM, Troy Dunn <troutwarrior at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > Jeff-
> >
> > Honestly I just haven't really researched how to "disconnect the shaft
> from
> > the coupler" per your suggestion.   I sorta assumed that meant using a
> > coupler puller to push the shaft off the coupler... you see...what
> happened
> > was....
> >
> > I read your response above, jotted a note, thought about researching
> right
> > away, got distracted by CMAs, then heard YouTube took a sabbatical last
> > night anyhow and patted myself on the back for making such a wise choice.
> >  I'll be checking into this more tonight assuming YouTube isn't in some
> > sort of malware ransomware jail.   I am curious though...is the approach
> to
> > slide "just the shaft" out far enough to get the bellows off the shaft
> but
> > to leave the actual coupler in place on the transmission?  If so...is it
> > also safe to assume this can be accomplished with the bearing in place
> and
> > the prop on or is not feasible to slide the shaft back far enough?  Said
> a
> > different way...are these projects really related at all?
> >
> > On the topic of "fit".   I checked out PYI's website and it appears there
> > is no shim offered to get to the 1-5/8" stern tube diameter; the
> suggestion
> > there appears to be to buy a bellows that supposedly fits the range from
> > 1-1/2" to 1-5/8".  Sounds like I might need to call them?
> >
> > Joe-
> >
> > My inspections to date have been pretty cursory.   I'll get out my good
> > flashlight and mirror and see what's what with the bellows.   I assume
> I'm
> > looking for basic crumbling etc.    Is there a "squeeze" test to
> determine
> > how good a shape the rubber is in?  I don't have a new bellows to compare
> > it to....
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Troy
> >
> > On Thu, Nov 12, 2020 at 4:21 PM Joe Luciano <jnluciano at comcast.net>
> wrote:
> >
> >> I think that if you altered the alignment negatively, you would
> experience
> >> increased vibration / noise at certain rpm’s.  If there is no change in
> the
> >> amount of vibration or noise, I wouldn’t spend the time and money to do
> an
> >> alignment.  Also, I can vouch for inspecting the bellows on a PYI shaft
> >> seal before doing a time based replacement at 6 years.  My bellows is
> now
> >> 15 years old and going strong.  I inspect it on haulouts and clean it
> up,
> >> checking for cracks and tightness of the clamps.  My bellows doesn’t
> look
> >> much different than the day it went in, so I think their recommendation
> is
> >> very conservative and likely based on some legal recommendations from
> the
> >> company lawyer rather than a factual deterioration.  Just my opinion….
> >>
> >> Joe Luciano
> >> Second Wind
> >> #1024
> >>> On Nov 12, 2020, at 12:58 PM, Jeff Smith <jeffreyssmith at live.com>
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Troy,
> >>>
> >>> Quick question for you. Why are you pulling the coupler? I disconnected
> >> the shaft from the coupler and slid the shaft aft far enough that I
> could
> >> remove the bellows and install the new bellows with the spacer. I am
> asking
> >> my question because I wondered at the time if I needed to go back
> through
> >> an alignment procedure. I decided that I did not because I was simply
> >> moving the shaft forward and aft but that it was maintaining the same
> >> plane, because I did not mess with any of the engine mounts. Did I err
> in
> >> my thinking? This will be important to me, as I plan to haul out in the
> >> spring to paint the bottom. Now I am wondering if I need to check the
> >> alignment of my shaft.
> >>>
> >>> Jeff
> >>> #121, ‘94
> >>>
> >>>> On Nov 11, 2020, at 8:41 PM, Troy Dunn <troutwarrior at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> Thanks for the inputs folks.   I was initially just concerned about
> >>>> scheduling the tools.   I was planning to hit the set screws and prop
> >> nuts
> >>>> with PB blaster a few times starting this weekend and getting those
> out
> >>>> and/or loose before getting to the main event.   But darn it
> >> all...Jeff's
> >>>> thoughts on the PSS had me cruising over to the PSS site and wouldn’t
> ya
> >>>> know it...6 years is the recommended replacement interval.   Seems
> like
> >> a
> >>>> conservatively low number to me however I have no idea how old the
> >> bellows
> >>>> is so as much as I wanted to avoid the snowball effect, it's looking
> >> like I
> >>>> need to pull the coupler and at that point I may as well go ahead and
> >>>> attempt a full alignment, here's hoping all my engine mounts are
> >> actually
> >>>> still in great shape....let the snowball roll.
> >>>>
> >>>> Off to read the coupler puller manual...yay me!
> >>>>
> >>>> Cheers
> >>>>
> >>>> Troy
> >>>
> >>
> >>
>
>