[C320-list] rebedding stachions

[P.F. Ross]

Hi Diane,

I am guessing that your handyman is referring to a "crows foot" wrench that
fits on the end of a ratchet wrench extension.  This allows you to turn a
nut in a space that does not allow a wrench to turn it (google it).

However, my experience (based on others that have posted long before me) is
that it would be very difficult to remove stanchion nuts using only a crows
foot wrench.  Here is what I did, although some may cringe since I may have
altered the structural integrity of the deck/hull joint.

I looked through all my pics thinking I had some, but no.  Usually when I
am about 2/3 of the way through a project I realize I should document it
for others but by that time it is often too late.  Apparently that is what
I did this time and did not take any pics.

To get to stanchion nuts, I would simply feel up underneath the deck flange
(wiring channel) to get an idea where the nuts were (typically one large
and two small).  I would then make marks on the flange as to where I wanted
to cut.  I gave myself plenty of room so I could have some wrench swing
once the chunk was removed, but it seems like it was usually about 4 or 5
inches of flange.

Others have apparently used a large hole saw to cut through the flange but
I thought that was too constraining.  While this is probably better for
stress relief on the flange than cutting a whole chunk out of the flange, I
had done one stanchion years ago and had seen no ill effects so decided to
do them all this way.

I did, however, start in each upper corner using a hole saw (a 1" dia,
IIRC) to drill the forward and aft corners of the chunk.  This was my nod
to stress relief.

I then used a Dremel multi tool

https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/tools/multi-max-mm20

with a semi-circular blade to cut the forward and aft vertical cuts and
then the top cut (as high as I could get it), all intersecting tangentially
with the previously drilled corner holes.

Now I had a nice large rectangular opening where I could easily see and
access the nuts.

I believe the large nut is a 3/4 or 7/8 and the (typically) two smaller
nuts are (IIRC) around 7/16.

The (probably) 5200 that is used for the deck/hull joint was in some cases
oozed out around the large nut, making it impossible to turn without
breaking the 5200 away.  I just used chisels and screwdrivers to break this
stuff up where needed.  I cannot see how one could possibly do this without
having plenty of access room (as in trying to reach up and do this without
cutting a access window).

So, really, the tough part was removing the various trim pieces to gain
access to the flange (especially in the cabinets over the stove) and making
sure you are not going to cut through any electrical wires.  Once the
access window is cut, the nuts are reasonably easy to get to.

I rebedded using the Bed-it butyl ribbon available from RC on
Marinehowto.com.  He has a great article on how to do it.

Even though the entire project took a while, it was relatively easy to do
one stanchion at a time over several iterations.  And what a great feeling
to have when your stanchions no longer leak!

Hope this helps, let me know if you have any other questions.

Frank Ross
Beta Wave #206
Naples, FL


On Mon, Oct 19, 2020 at 1:32 PM Diane Fowler <dianeflr at aol.com> wrote:

> My boat handyman says we need a special tool to get the nut under
> stanchion??
>
> He thinks mine move too much ( I disagree)
>
> Anyone have experience with this??
>
> S/V Windy City, #948
>
> Captain Diane Fowler, CRS, GRI, e-PRO
>
> Nautical Realty Group, Inc.
> Let me help make your sale a breeze.
>
> 239-850-4935
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Oct 19, 2020, at 2:00 PM, Scott Thompson <surprise at thompson87.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks. Does anyone know what is the right replacement bulb?
> >
> >> On 10/19/2020 1:14 PM, Dennis Cookson wrote:
> >> Hi Scott, I have the same panel and yes, each instrument has a grey or
> black plastic bulb holder at the back that can be removed easily to change
> a bulb. No need to remove the gauge, just the panel screws.
> >>
> >> Regards,
> >> Dennis Cookson
> >> #577.   1999
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>> On 19 Oct 2020, at 17:55, Scott Thompson <surprise at thompson87.com>
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> I recently did some night sailing, which we do not do very often. When
> running the engine I noticed that there was no light on the tachometer or
> fuel gauge (both on the left), in contrast to the voltage and temp gauges
> (on the right). Does anyone know whether the lights are replaceable
> separately from the gauges themselves? Given the pattern in might be a
> loose wire rather than burned out lights, but I'd like to know what are the
> possibilities before removing the wheel, opening the panel, etc.
> >>>
> >>> This is on a Yanmar 3GM30F, 1999 vintage, European model engine. The
> panel is the standard Catalina panel from 1999.
> >>>
> >>> Scott
> >>>
> >>>
> >
> > --
> > Scott Thompson
> > Surprise, #653
> >
>
>