[C320-list] In-line fuse and Windlass circuit breaker
SARA SCHROEDER
saras951 at comcast.net
Thu Sep 17 14:03:12 PDT 2020
Thanks all for the comments about the in-line fuse to my two 4D cell batteries. The problem is now solved. Duh....buy a bigger fuse!
That being said, I did gang the batteries back together so they are house bank #1 and the new starter battery is house bank #2. The starter is getting power from a Xantrex echo-charger. Thanks to those (particularly Dave Hupe) who recommended the ProNautic 12V 40AMP battery charger. It's a sweet unit and very easy to install and set up. As we speak my poor batteries are getting 20+amps and are finally happy. In the end the problem was the old circular in-line fuse holders and the size of the fuses. (Note to self: Read the ENTIRE installation manual before operating unit.) I cut out the old fuse holders and installed the unit below with a 50AMP fuse. All is good now.
https://www.fisheriessupply.com/blue-sea-systems-ami-midi-safety-fuse-block.
As for the windless circuit breaker......mine did not work when I bought the boat. The PO is a good friend of mine and he couldn't get it to work either. The push/pull windlass circuit breaker was on the starboard side of the boat above the settee on the same panel as the battery selector switch. In addition to the windlass CB there is a CB for the main circuit breaker panel. I discovered that the push/pull windlass CB had a 30amp fuse on it and the main panel had a 120amp fuse on it. It appears the fuses were reversed. I suspect this was done at the factory level. I removed the push/pull unit altogether and installed a new 150amp CB. The windlass works just fine now.
Sara
Wandering Star
2000 / #707
> On 09/17/2020 1:01 PM c320-list-request at lists.catalina320.com wrote:
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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: E-T-A circuit breaker for Anchor Windlass - Push-Pull
> Actuator? (Scott Thompson)
> 2. Re: In-line fuse on battery cables (Scott Thompson)
> 3. Re: In-line fuse on battery cables (Scott Thompson)
> 4. Raymarine ST60 Instrument Sun Cover (SARA SCHROEDER)
> 5. Re: Raymarine ST60 Instrument Sun Cover (Chris Burti)
> 6. Re: E-T-A circuit breaker for Anchor Windlass - Push-Pull
> Actuator? (Bob Borelli)
> 7. Re: E-T-A circuit breaker for Anchor Windlass - Push-Pull
> Actuator? (Graeme Clark)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2020 22:05:37 -0400
> From: Scott Thompson <surprise at thompson87.com>
> To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] E-T-A circuit breaker for Anchor Windlass -
> Push-Pull Actuator?
> Message-ID: <f16e4bdb-6893-0098-6a85-93263cde5f1c at thompson87.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
>
> Yes, it's push-pull on my 1999 boat. Push to turn it on. Pull to turn it
> off. It is very stiff. My wife has trouble turning it on or off.
>
> On 9/15/2020 9:23 AM, Bob Borelli wrote:
> > Is the E-T-A 80 amp circuit breaker for the Anchor Windlass located on the Control Panel supposed to be a Push-Pull Actuator?
> >
> > I have not tried the anchor windlass since I purchased to boat other then to know it works.
> > Suddenly the Blue activation light is on.
> > I push the circuit breaker in hard and remains on.
> > So I disconnected the circuit till I figure this out.
> >
> > The E-T-A Company rep says the Circuit Breaker E-T-A 413-K14-LN2-80A Push-Pull Actuator available at Allied Electronics will replace my existing 80 amp breaker.
> >
> > So is the Windlass breaker a Push-Pull Actuator?
> >
> > Note that Catalina Direct does not have this item.
> >
> > Thank you!
> > Bob Borelli
> > 1995 C320 no. 209 at Sailing Associates Inc., Maryland
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2020 22:12:00 -0400
> From: Scott Thompson <surprise at thompson87.com>
> To: C320-List at Catalina320.com, "c320-list at lists.catalina320.com"
> <c320-list at lists.catalina320.com>
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] In-line fuse on battery cables
> Message-ID: <0c525545-826e-b9ad-3699-8b81e8fce15f at thompson87.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
>
> I'm having some trouble understanding why blowing these fuses would stop
> the alternator from charging the batteries. Did you move the battery
> switch to #1 or "both" to test that?
>
> On 9/14/2020 12:33 PM, SARA SCHROEDER wrote:
> > I had reached out to the group regarding recommendations on battery charges, echo-chargers and solar panels. As a reminder I have two 4D deep cycle batteries, did not have a starter battery or echo-charger and my batteries were either not being fully charged or were losing capacity. After doing research, my helper and I ganged the two 4D batteries together into one house bank which became bank #1 and installed a new starter battery which became bank #2. We also installed a new ProMariner ProNautic 12V 40 AMP battery charger.
> >
> > After a full weekend away from the dock, this set up turned out to be an epic failure. The batteries were not being charged at all - either by the new charger or the alternator. Upon further inspection we discovered that both the alternator and the new charger were blowing the 20amp in-line fuse located in the positive battery cable. We considered just putting in a larger fuse but Platt Electric recommended we not do this.
> >
> > We undid everything and reverted back to the factory settings. One 4D is back to house bank #1 and the second 4D is house bank #2. The starter battery and echo-charger are on hold for the moment. We installed new fuses in both positive cables, fired up the new battery charger and my batteries finally started getting a charge. At first the ProNautic was pumping in about 40amps but this quickly came down to about 20amps. After about 30 minutes of charging my helper reached down and touched the in-line fuse casings. They were shockingly hot. We could not really even touch them. I stayed at the boat to monitor them and after about 3 hours I could touch them and the cables themselves were "slightly" warm but not hot.
> >
> > I suspect the fuse housings are original which makes them 20 years old. Does anyone have these round in-line fuse housings or is it just me? Have you had problems with them failing or replaced them? If you replaced them what did you use? Thanks as always!
> >
> > Sara
> > Wandering Star
> > 2000 / #707
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2020 22:12:00 -0400
> From: Scott Thompson <surprise at thompson87.com>
> To: C320-List at Catalina320.com, "c320-list at lists.catalina320.com"
> <c320-list at lists.catalina320.com>
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] In-line fuse on battery cables
> Message-ID: <0c525545-826e-b9ad-3699-8b81e8fce15f at thompson87.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
>
> I'm having some trouble understanding why blowing these fuses would stop
> the alternator from charging the batteries. Did you move the battery
> switch to #1 or "both" to test that?
>
> On 9/14/2020 12:33 PM, SARA SCHROEDER wrote:
> > I had reached out to the group regarding recommendations on battery charges, echo-chargers and solar panels. As a reminder I have two 4D deep cycle batteries, did not have a starter battery or echo-charger and my batteries were either not being fully charged or were losing capacity. After doing research, my helper and I ganged the two 4D batteries together into one house bank which became bank #1 and installed a new starter battery which became bank #2. We also installed a new ProMariner ProNautic 12V 40 AMP battery charger.
> >
> > After a full weekend away from the dock, this set up turned out to be an epic failure. The batteries were not being charged at all - either by the new charger or the alternator. Upon further inspection we discovered that both the alternator and the new charger were blowing the 20amp in-line fuse located in the positive battery cable. We considered just putting in a larger fuse but Platt Electric recommended we not do this.
> >
> > We undid everything and reverted back to the factory settings. One 4D is back to house bank #1 and the second 4D is house bank #2. The starter battery and echo-charger are on hold for the moment. We installed new fuses in both positive cables, fired up the new battery charger and my batteries finally started getting a charge. At first the ProNautic was pumping in about 40amps but this quickly came down to about 20amps. After about 30 minutes of charging my helper reached down and touched the in-line fuse casings. They were shockingly hot. We could not really even touch them. I stayed at the boat to monitor them and after about 3 hours I could touch them and the cables themselves were "slightly" warm but not hot.
> >
> > I suspect the fuse housings are original which makes them 20 years old. Does anyone have these round in-line fuse housings or is it just me? Have you had problems with them failing or replaced them? If you replaced them what did you use? Thanks as always!
> >
> > Sara
> > Wandering Star
> > 2000 / #707
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2020 20:50:41 -0700 (PDT)
> From: SARA SCHROEDER <saras951 at comcast.net>
> To: "c320-list at lists.catalina320.com"
> <c320-list at lists.catalina320.com>
> Subject: [C320-list] Raymarine ST60 Instrument Sun Cover
> Message-ID: <1538745349.36142.1600314642146 at connect.xfinity.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>
> Looking for a replacement cover for a Raymarine ST60 single instrument sun cover. During the recent 25-30 knot winds while anchored in a somewhat protected anchorage I forgot to put the helm cover on and the winds blew one of the covers off. After researching this replacement part I find that it's not made anymore. The ST60 Plus covers don't work.
>
> Sara
> Wandering Star
> 2000 / #707
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2020 07:57:39 -0400
> From: Chris Burti <clburti at gmail.com>
> To: 320 <C320-List at catalina320.com>
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Raymarine ST60 Instrument Sun Cover
> Message-ID:
> <CAAAgXkxNu=Y9TH0vEYCyXWszvimKRZqq3sFzbqrE06=y2xq26w at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
>
> Sara,
> I have one, a bit faded, that you can have, email me your address and I
> will mail it to you.
>
> p.s. to all... I have a ST 60 speed instrument, an e7 MFD and a NavPod
> altered to hold the e7 and two ST 60 or i70 instrument heads listed on ebay
> if anyone has a need. I upgraded to an Axiom 9+
>
> Chris Burti
> Commitment #867
> Farmville, NC
>
>
> On Wed, Sep 16, 2020 at 11:50 PM SARA SCHROEDER <saras951 at comcast.net>
> wrote:
>
> > Looking for a replacement cover for a Raymarine ST60 single instrument sun
> > cover. During the recent 25-30 knot winds while anchored in a somewhat
> > protected anchorage I forgot to put the helm cover on and the winds blew
> > one of the covers off. After researching this replacement part I find that
> > it's not made anymore. The ST60 Plus covers don't work.
> >
> > Sara
> > Wandering Star
> > 2000 / #707
> >
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2020 16:00:38 +0000
> From: Bob Borelli <cassattc22 at hotmail.com>
> To: "C320-List at Catalina320.com" <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] E-T-A circuit breaker for Anchor Windlass -
> Push-Pull Actuator?
> Message-ID:
> <DM5PR06MB3292DA4A284A40D69193866DCF3E0 at DM5PR06MB3292.namprd06.prod.outlook.com>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Both ETA and Allied have confirmed the replacement for my existing 80A circuit breaker by comparing the ETA part number.
> I went ahead and purchased a new ETA 80A Push-Pull circuit breaker from Allied Electronics.
>
> Catalina Direct states this breaker no longer available.
> However I was able to purchase a 30 AMP Push-Pull breaker for my water heater when plugged into 120V 30Amp service at the pier.
> I did not understand that Push-Pull breakers are used as a ON-OFF switch for the water heater & windlass.
>
> Wish my boat had come with instructions, this list has been most instructive!
>
> Thank you for your responses!
>
> New 80 Amp breaker number: E-T-A 413-K14-LN2-80A Allied # 70129074 $67
>
> New 15 Amp breaker number: E-T-A 2-5700-IG1-K10-DD Catalina Direct # Z4173 $45
>
> Bob Borelli
> 1995 C320 no. 209 'Elusive' at Sailing Associates Inc.
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: C320-list <c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com> on behalf of Scott Thompson <surprise at thompson87.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2020 10:05 PM
> To: C320-List at Catalina320.com <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] E-T-A circuit breaker for Anchor Windlass - Push-Pull Actuator?
>
> Yes, it's push-pull on my 1999 boat. Push to turn it on. Pull to turn it
> off. It is very stiff. My wife has trouble turning it on or off.
>
> On 9/15/2020 9:23 AM, Bob Borelli wrote:
> > Is the E-T-A 80 amp circuit breaker for the Anchor Windlass located on the Control Panel supposed to be a Push-Pull Actuator?
> >
> > I have not tried the anchor windlass since I purchased to boat other then to know it works.
> > Suddenly the Blue activation light is on.
> > I push the circuit breaker in hard and remains on.
> > So I disconnected the circuit till I figure this out.
> >
> > The E-T-A Company rep says the Circuit Breaker E-T-A 413-K14-LN2-80A Push-Pull Actuator available at Allied Electronics will replace my existing 80 amp breaker.
> >
> > So is the Windlass breaker a Push-Pull Actuator?
> >
> > Note that Catalina Direct does not have this item.
> >
> > Thank you!
> > Bob Borelli
> > 1995 C320 no. 209 at Sailing Associates Inc., Maryland
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2020 17:09:14 +0100
> From: Graeme Clark <cg at skyflyer.co.uk>
> To: Catalina list <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] E-T-A circuit breaker for Anchor Windlass -
> Push-Pull Actuator?
> Message-ID: <C014C82F-18FB-46D0-8709-84128F436D66 at skyflyer.co.uk>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
> Bob
>
> I?m guessing that the use of a CB for a switch is because these items can potentially be dangerous if un-knowingly switched on by accident? There is no way you are going to switch on the windlass when you meant to turn on the gas, for example!
>
> Also the high current would not be sustainable on a small rocker switch I suspect, so you would then need a relay. Easier to use the cb instead?
>
> Our water heater cb is push-push - as are all those shore-voltage breakers. Push in to set and push in again, harder, to unset.
>
> If I was to replace my windlass breaker, I?d obviously still ensure there was circuit protection but I?d probably then fit a guarded switch like these:
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Fastronix-Toggle-Switch-Aircraft-Safety/dp/B01BJ4LXPG <https://www.amazon.com/Fastronix-Toggle-Switch-Aircraft-Safety/dp/B01BJ4LXPG>
>
> HTH
>
> Graeme
>
>
> > On 17 Sep 2020, at 17:00, Bob Borelli <cassattc22 at hotmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > Both ETA and Allied have confirmed the replacement for my existing 80A circuit breaker by comparing the ETA part number.
> > I went ahead and purchased a new ETA 80A Push-Pull circuit breaker from Allied Electronics.
> >
> > Catalina Direct states this breaker no longer available.
> > However I was able to purchase a 30 AMP Push-Pull breaker for my water heater when plugged into 120V 30Amp service at the pier.
> > I did not understand that Push-Pull breakers are used as a ON-OFF switch for the water heater & windlass.
> >
> > Wish my boat had come with instructions, this list has been most instructive!
> >
> > Thank you for your responses!
> >
> > New 80 Amp breaker number: E-T-A 413-K14-LN2-80A Allied # 70129074 $67
> >
> > New 15 Amp breaker number: E-T-A 2-5700-IG1-K10-DD Catalina Direct # Z4173 $45
> >
> > Bob Borelli
> > 1995 C320 no. 209 'Elusive' at Sailing Associates Inc.
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: C320-list <c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com> on behalf of Scott Thompson <surprise at thompson87.com>
> > Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2020 10:05 PM
> > To: C320-List at Catalina320.com <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
> > Subject: Re: [C320-list] E-T-A circuit breaker for Anchor Windlass - Push-Pull Actuator?
> >
> > Yes, it's push-pull on my 1999 boat. Push to turn it on. Pull to turn it
> > off. It is very stiff. My wife has trouble turning it on or off.
> >
> > On 9/15/2020 9:23 AM, Bob Borelli wrote:
> >> Is the E-T-A 80 amp circuit breaker for the Anchor Windlass located on the Control Panel supposed to be a Push-Pull Actuator?
> >>
> >> I have not tried the anchor windlass since I purchased to boat other then to know it works.
> >> Suddenly the Blue activation light is on.
> >> I push the circuit breaker in hard and remains on.
> >> So I disconnected the circuit till I figure this out.
> >>
> >> The E-T-A Company rep says the Circuit Breaker E-T-A 413-K14-LN2-80A Push-Pull Actuator available at Allied Electronics will replace my existing 80 amp breaker.
> >>
> >> So is the Windlass breaker a Push-Pull Actuator?
> >>
> >> Note that Catalina Direct does not have this item.
> >>
> >> Thank you!
> >> Bob Borelli
> >> 1995 C320 no. 209 at Sailing Associates Inc., Maryland
> >
>
>
>
> End of C320-list Digest, Vol 3834, Issue 1
> ******************************************
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