[C320-list] Screws for interior timber trim
David Hayes
davidhayes1 at hotmail.com
Mon Feb 1 19:27:38 PST 2021
Thanks all for your feedback.....silicon bronze sounds right then, they are definitely brown all down length of shaft and not stainless, and definitely are the original screws.
Re the rusting...a couple have rusted only where the trim has been damaged by sea water leaking from port light just above....the rest of the timber is fine so it's pretty clear where the water came from, and the timber trim is stained a little just in these areas. I think(?) I have addressed the leaks just by treating the rubber seal which had dried out somewhat, by using Armourall which had been suggested by a friend and does seem to have rejuvenated the seals. There is a fair chance that the admiral - I'll use that term I have seen used by others in this forum - may have left the portlights open on one of our first trips on the boat, on a wet and windy day, before we realised that these really need to be shut when under way and opened only when the weather is dry...but no matter, we don't seem to have had any more water enter these since then.
Thanks again for the feedback, this forum is fantastic.
__________________
David Hayes
Mobile: 0478 956 056
20 Cooks Outlet Road
Loch Vic 3945
________________________________
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Today's Topics:
1. Fwd: Screws for internal timber trim (David Hayes)
2. Teak interior (David Hayes)
3. Re: Fwd: Screws for internal timber trim (Chris Burti)
4. Re: Fwd: Screws for internal timber trim (Mark Cole)
5. Re: Teak interior (Chris Burti)
6. Re: Fwd: Screws for internal timber trim (Troy Dunn)
7. Re: Teak interior (Greg Flanagan)
8. Perkins M30 Oil Change (David Veeneman)
9. Re: Perkins M30 Oil Change (Dave Hupe)
10. Re: Perkins M30 Oil Change (mark)
11. Re: Perkins M30 Oil Change (Charles Holbrook)
12. Re: Perkins M30 Oil Change (Bob Borelli)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2021 23:17:47 +0000
From: David Hayes <davidhayes1 at hotmail.com>
To: "c320-list at lists.catalina320.com"
<c320-list at lists.catalina320.com>
Subject: [C320-list] Fwd: Screws for internal timber trim
Message-ID:
<MEYP282MB215286BD6DDCB89004BD73A7E6B69 at MEYP282MB2152.AUSP282.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
Hi all,
I need to replace a couple of screws that have rusted through, the ones that fasten the internal timber trims and used quite extensively throughout the saloon...looks to me like they are brass perhaps, about 1 inch long, countersunk but slightly raised/rounded head. I've been re-coating the internal timbers and noticed a few screws need replacing so would appreciate any help to source the same screws. Thanks in advance for any help.
I have a 2006 C320. We are in Australia.
__________________
David Hayes
Mobile: 0478 956 056
20 Cooks Outlet Road
Loch Vic 3945
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2021 23:19:00 +0000
From: David Hayes <davidhayes1 at hotmail.com>
To: "c320-list at lists.catalina320.com"
<c320-list at lists.catalina320.com>
Subject: [C320-list] Teak interior
Message-ID:
<MEYP282MB2152DA3570D7044A2B552D23E6B69 at MEYP282MB2152.AUSP282.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
Hi all,
I have sourced a water-based polyurethane varnish, similar to the Target Coatings one used on our boat originally (too hard to get hold of the Target product here in Oz). But, it doesn't, contrary to my hopes, restore the colour of the teak where it has faded...we have a couple of small areas below portlights where historical water damage has caused the timber to fade and so I'm wondering what I could use to restore these areas...perhaps some touch-up product just for problem areas to restore that honey colouring..?
I bought some wax sticks for fixing cracks etc but these do not seem to work very well on smooth surfaces which are just faded...
The door to the head is also a bit faded overall as that gets more UV than most other areas it seems, so this perhaps needs a coating for the whole surface.
Any thoughts greatly appreciated.
2006 model.
__________________
David Hayes
Mobile: 0478 956 056
20 Cooks Outlet Road
Loch Vic 3945
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2021 18:23:53 -0500
From: Chris Burti <clburti at gmail.com>
To: "C320-List at Catalina320.com" <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Fwd: Screws for internal timber trim
Message-ID: <60188d88.1c69fb81.2b28c.9f81 at mx.google.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
We have 2001 hull #867 and all trim hardware is stainless steel mostly 1-3/4? or 2?, #10 or #12 as I recall. If you are not the original owner, I would suspect the PO might have changed them?
Thanks,
Chris Burti
Commitment #867
Farmville, NC
From: David Hayes
Sent: Monday, February 1, 2021 6:17 PM
To: c320-list at lists.catalina320.com
Subject: [C320-list] Fwd: Screws for internal timber trim
Hi all,
I need to replace a couple of screws that have rusted through, the ones that fasten the internal timber trims and used quite extensively throughout the saloon...looks to me like they are brass perhaps, about 1 inch long, countersunk but slightly raised/rounded head. I've been re-coating the internal timbers and noticed a few screws need replacing so would appreciate any help to source the same screws. Thanks in advance for any help.
I have a 2006 C320. We are in Australia.
__________________
David Hayes
Mobile: 0478 956 056
20 Cooks Outlet Road
Loch Vic 3945
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2021 15:27:43 -0800
From: Mark Cole <boatnboot at me.com>
To: C320-List at catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Fwd: Screws for internal timber trim
Message-ID: <A1A510F3-37FA-459A-88EB-6EA71C4E9A9B at me.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
Hi, David;
If the screws are truly a brown color, even after removed, and not silver where they were screwed into the wood, they are made of silicon bronze. This is a very common screw material and you should be able to find the exact same screw at any local marine supply store or good hardware store. Take a sample in to match up.
All of the screws used in the interior of my boat, hull #8, however, are stainless steel (silver). Again, a very common screw material and can be found in any marine store or good hardware. If you go the stainless route, along with the sample, take a magnet to check the screw material. Stainless steel will not stick to a magnet.
Mark
Sent from my iPad
> On Feb 1, 2021, at 3:18 PM, David Hayes <davidhayes1 at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?
> Hi all,
>
> I need to replace a couple of screws that have rusted through, the ones that fasten the internal timber trims and used quite extensively throughout the saloon...looks to me like they are brass perhaps, about 1 inch long, countersunk but slightly raised/rounded head. I've been re-coating the internal timbers and noticed a few screws need replacing so would appreciate any help to source the same screws. Thanks in advance for any help.
> I have a 2006 C320. We are in Australia.
> __________________
> David Hayes
> Mobile: 0478 956 056
> 20 Cooks Outlet Road
> Loch Vic 3945
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2021 18:29:10 -0500
From: Chris Burti <clburti at gmail.com>
To: "C320-List at Catalina320.com" <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Teak interior
Message-ID: <60188ec5.1c69fb81.480d7.fa12 at mx.google.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
As an old wood butcher, I have observed that sun fading is essentially a form of bleaching and you will need to remove the finish and stain the wood with a water based product. Buy three or four small tins of different colors and experiment to try to get a match. I?ve had a lot of luck with light oak, red mahogany and medium walnut.
Thanks,
Chris Burti
Commitment #867
Farmville, NC
From: David Hayes
Sent: Monday, February 1, 2021 6:19 PM
To: c320-list at lists.catalina320.com
Subject: [C320-list] Teak interior
Hi all,
I have sourced a water-based polyurethane varnish, similar to the Target Coatings one used on our boat originally (too hard to get hold of the Target product here in Oz). But, it doesn't, contrary to my hopes, restore the colour of the teak where it has faded...we have a couple of small areas below portlights where historical water damage has caused the timber to fade and so I'm wondering what I could use to restore these areas...perhaps some touch-up product just for problem areas to restore that honey colouring..?
I bought some wax sticks for fixing cracks etc but these do not seem to work very well on smooth surfaces which are just faded...
The door to the head is also a bit faded overall as that gets more UV than most other areas it seems, so this perhaps needs a coating for the whole surface.
Any thoughts greatly appreciated.
2006 model.
__________________
David Hayes
Mobile: 0478 956 056
20 Cooks Outlet Road
Loch Vic 3945
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2021 18:53:24 -0500
From: Troy Dunn <troutwarrior at gmail.com>
To: C320-List at catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Fwd: Screws for internal timber trim
Message-ID:
<CA+rGV8ajZ=Fx-+tFgqS4GEZL_vUC1ed+uGfwySJJtj8ozKUdAA at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
All stainless on Hull #514 as well. I'm curious where you see seeing
rust. It sounds like it's on the teak trim around the galley and salon
area? I could definitely see how a plumbing leak beneath the galley sink
could lead to rust, but elsewhere I'd start to get concerned about other
problems. A rusty stainless screw is an indication of water intrusion.
The only place I've seen rusty screws on our hull is the thinner screws
that attach the plastic fiddle to the vanity in the head, water penetrates
the caulk on the inside edge of that fiddle and then crevice corrosion does
the rest. I've replaced those screws and resealed the fiddle to hopefully
protect for the next 20 years.
Troy Dunn
Hull #514
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2021 16:52:34 -0700 (MST)
From: Greg Flanagan <greg.flanagan at shaw.ca>
To: C320-List at catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Teak interior
Message-ID:
<1014723186.16655768.1612223554964.JavaMail.zimbra at cds216.dcs.int.inet>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
I had the same ?brown? screws throughout and yes a few were rusted! I replaced them all by buying a gross of similar but SS (my preferred for everything) screws? These are the ones I bought on Amazon and they fit well:
SNUG Fasteners (SNG96) 100 Qty #8 x 1 Truss 304 Stainless Phillips Head Wood Screws
Greg
Hoop Dancer #1076
Sidney, BC
> On Feb 1, 2021, at 3:29 PM, Chris Burti <clburti at gmail.com> wrote:
> ?As an old wood butcher, I have observed that sun fading is essentially a form of bleaching and you will need to remove the finish and stain the wood with a water based product. Buy three or four small tins of different colors and experiment to try to get a match. I?ve had a lot of luck with light oak, red mahogany and medium walnut.
>
> Thanks,
> Chris Burti
> Commitment #867
> Farmville, NC
>
> From: David Hayes
> Sent: Monday, February 1, 2021 6:19 PM
> To: c320-list at lists.catalina320.com
> Subject: [C320-list] Teak interior
>
> Hi all,
>
> I have sourced a water-based polyurethane varnish, similar to the Target Coatings one used on our boat originally (too hard to get hold of the Target product here in Oz). But, it doesn't, contrary to my hopes, restore the colour of the teak where it has faded...we have a couple of small areas below portlights where historical water damage has caused the timber to fade and so I'm wondering what I could use to restore these areas...perhaps some touch-up product just for problem areas to restore that honey colouring..?
> I bought some wax sticks for fixing cracks etc but these do not seem to work very well on smooth surfaces which are just faded...
> The door to the head is also a bit faded overall as that gets more UV than most other areas it seems, so this perhaps needs a coating for the whole surface.
> Any thoughts greatly appreciated.
> 2006 model.
>
> __________________
> David Hayes
> Mobile: 0478 956 056
> 20 Cooks Outlet Road
> Loch Vic 3945
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2021 16:35:12 -0800
From: David Veeneman <davidv at veeneman.com>
To: "C320-List at catalina320.com" <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
Subject: [C320-list] Perkins M30 Oil Change
Message-ID: <63C10732-55E5-4468-B9AC-6FC54DAE74D9 at veeneman.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
I am getting ready to do my first oil change on Adelante (Hull #131), which is powered by a Perkins Perama M30 engine. I have read in some old posts that there are two ways of draining the old oil from the engine:
The tried-and-true narrow hose down the dipstick approach; or
Temporarily attach a fitting with a barb to the end of a tube near the bottom of the engine, then fit a hose from the barb to the pump used to drain the oil.
I understand the tried-an-true method has some problems getting the hose to the bottom of the oil pan, so the second method looks like the better way to go.
Are any members of this group using the second method? If so, could you help me with this question: Where exactly is the tube to the oil pan?
I have taken a picture of my engine, showing the location of the oil filterIt is located at:
https://c320.org/mediagallery/media.php?f=0&sort=0&s=20210202000120339 <https://c320.org/mediagallery/media.php?f=0&sort=0&s=20210202000120339>
There are three ports next to the oil filter, labelled A, B, and C in the picture. I think the tube is at label B. Can anyone confirm this? Also does anyone know what size barb fitting it takes?
Thanks for your help!
--
David Veeneman
SV Adelante, C320 #131
Dana Point, CA
------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2021 00:56:51 +0000 (UTC)
From: Dave Hupe <hoopdtwo at yahoo.com>
To: "C320-List at Catalina320.com" <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Perkins M30 Oil Change
Message-ID: <1685419467.1353283.1612227411913 at mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
Dave-
I'm pretty sure "A" is the petcock to drain engine antifreeze,? and "B" I'm pretty sure is another way to drain the engine oil. I think it has a threaded cap on it.
Dave Hupe1994 C320 (#32)Perkins Perama M30
------------------------------
Message: 10
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2021 19:19:39 -0600
From: "mark" <mseyler at cox.net>
To: <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Perkins M30 Oil Change
Message-ID: <011f01d6f901$7b4a78d0$71df6a70$@cox.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
A is definitely the drain for coolant, and I'm pretty sure that B is the tube to drain oil. I'm not sure what the label for C is referering to, but it's not the oil drain tube or coolant drain.
I've been sucking the old oil out the dipstick tube for oil changes on my Perkins. (I figure that since there are only about 25-30 hours on the engine between my annual oil changes, any small amount of old oil left behind won't matter much.) But if anyone has figured out the size fitting to attach the hose barb, I'd like to know as well.
Mark Seyler
S/V Reality,
Catalina 320, #232
New Orleans, LA
-----Original Message-----
From: C320-list [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Dave Hupe
Sent: Monday, February 01, 2021 6:57 PM
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Perkins M30 Oil Change
Dave-
I'm pretty sure "A" is the petcock to drain engine antifreeze, and "B" I'm pretty sure is another way to drain the engine oil. I think it has a threaded cap on it.
Dave Hupe1994 C320 (#32)Perkins Perama M30
------------------------------
Message: 11
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2021 02:19:50 +0000 (UTC)
From: Charles Holbrook <charlesholbrook at ymail.com>
To: "C320-List at Catalina320.com" <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Perkins M30 Oil Change
Message-ID: <410137536.837170.1612232390033 at mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
Warm engine oil, battery powered drill pump down the dipstick tube.? Baby diapers are good absorbents for any drips around the filter.
Charlie #192"Nautigirl"??
On Monday, February 1, 2021, 08:22:46 PM EST, mark <mseyler at cox.net> wrote:
A is definitely the drain for coolant, and I'm pretty sure that B is the tube to drain oil.? I'm not sure what the label for C is referering to, but it's not the oil drain tube or coolant drain.?
I've been sucking the old oil out the dipstick tube for oil changes on my Perkins.? (I figure that since there are only about 25-30 hours on the engine between my annual oil changes, any small amount of old oil left behind won't matter much.)? But if anyone has figured out the size fitting to attach the hose barb, I'd like to know as well.
Mark Seyler
S/V Reality,
Catalina 320, #232
New Orleans, LA
-----Original Message-----
From: C320-list [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Dave Hupe
Sent: Monday, February 01, 2021 6:57 PM
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Perkins M30 Oil Change
Dave-
I'm pretty sure "A" is the petcock to drain engine antifreeze,? and "B" I'm pretty sure is another way to drain the engine oil. I think it has a threaded cap on it.
Dave Hupe1994 C320 (#32)Perkins Perama M30
?
?
------------------------------
Message: 12
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2021 02:43:55 +0000
From: Bob Borelli <cassattc22 at hotmail.com>
To: "C320-List at Catalina320.com" <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Perkins M30 Oil Change
Message-ID:
<DM5PR06MB3292D0212744574590395BC1CFB59 at DM5PR06MB3292.namprd06.prod.outlook.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
I use the second method to hand pump the oil out of my Perkins M30.
A is the coolant drain, a 1/4" ID vinyl tube fits over the nipple to drain coolant into container.
B is the tube I use to pump out the used, warm oil from the oil pan, annual oil change, using a threaded barbed fitting.
C is a lube oil tube from the cylinder block to the cylinder head.
I tried pumping oil from the dip stick, also slide tube down dip stick, no success.
So I remove the old oil from B.
I remove the old oil filter first to allow for room.
Then I remove the Cap Nut on B with a 7/16" open end wrench.
Then I screw in a 3/8"x 1/4" Adaptor Barb MIP purchased at Home Depot.
A 3/8" ID vinyl tube is attached to Barb and other end to a PAR Handy Boy hand pump.
A fast, clean oil change!
Re-install Cap Nut, add new Fram PH2951 filter & Shell Rotella T1 SAE 30 Heavy Duty Diesel Engine Oil.
What oil & filter are you guys using on your Perkins M30?
There is also an oil drain plug on the aft end of the pan, under the oil filter, reachable with a socket but how to catch the old oil without a mess.
I use oil absorbant cloths from Amazon Prime. Plastic gloves, 13 gal plastic trash bags, blue Shop Towels & Spray Nine Marine cleaner.
Bob Borelli 1995 C320 no. 209 Sailing Associates Inc, Georgetown Maryland
________________________________
From: C320-list <c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com> on behalf of mark <mseyler at cox.net>
Sent: Monday, February 1, 2021 8:19 PM
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Perkins M30 Oil Change
A is definitely the drain for coolant, and I'm pretty sure that B is the tube to drain oil. I'm not sure what the label for C is referering to, but it's not the oil drain tube or coolant drain.
I've been sucking the old oil out the dipstick tube for oil changes on my Perkins. (I figure that since there are only about 25-30 hours on the engine between my annual oil changes, any small amount of old oil left behind won't matter much.) But if anyone has figured out the size fitting to attach the hose barb, I'd like to know as well.
Mark Seyler
S/V Reality,
Catalina 320, #232
New Orleans, LA
-----Original Message-----
From: C320-list [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Dave Hupe
Sent: Monday, February 01, 2021 6:57 PM
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Perkins M30 Oil Change
Dave-
I'm pretty sure "A" is the petcock to drain engine antifreeze, and "B" I'm pretty sure is another way to drain the engine oil. I think it has a threaded cap on it.
Dave Hupe1994 C320 (#32)Perkins Perama M30
End of C320-list Digest, Vol 3937, Issue 2
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