[C320-list] Installed the Victron Multiplus (Multi) 2000VA 12-Volt Pure Sine Wave 80 Amp charger and inverter.

[RichF RF]

My primary interest was the very high quality 80 Amp charger for Lifeline
AGM 4D bank. Also installed Lifeline G27 Start

The resources provided by Victron are very good.  I’m adding items that
were not easily found in the existing documents or that may be unique to a
320 install.  Anyone installing one of these units should read all of the
manuals, there is so much more information than I’m posting here.

Main Unit Location:  Unit installed in original charger location port
locker at bulkhead.  A ¾” starboard piece was mounted directly to the
original plywood mounting surface slightly smaller than Multi.  This is
needed to pull the unit away from the fiberglass structure “ridge” that
would interfere with the installation. The unit will sit much higher than
the original charger.  Remove the galley cabinet to allow more working
space.  The very top and port side do not have ideal clearance, but the
locker area is quite large.

DC Install:  18’ run from battery to Multi under galley exiting where fresh
water lines enter after cabin, under port floor panel. Ran up along next to
engine fresh water anti-siphon loop.  Drilled two holes in port locker
floor to access wires.  There is a fridge compressor line running right
where you would want to drill.  Used my phone to take pictures looking up
the panel in aft cabin, a tunnel structure there that needs to be avoided.
Only drill into flat area.  I really considered adding an access panel to
aft cabin for this part, but ended up not needing.

2 Additional holes were needed from bilge area to battery compartment,
drilled as high (close to floor board) as possible.

My positive bus and master on/off switch is in the aft battery
compartment.  You would need longer cables to have in forward battery
compartment.  Doing again, I would just go with 20’ to have the extra
working room.  Connecting Multi end DC is easier because there is more room
for error in the battery area.  The cables really can’t be longer or
shorter at the unit.  At the battery compartment, you can move left or
right a few inches without any issues, depending on the cable length.  This
was key because once you start measuring and crimping battery cables, you
are committing.

Used AWG 1 x2 (total cross section surface area is 84.8mm2) for positive
and negative cables.  (1/0 is 53.5mm2) (2/0 is 67.4mm2) Ancor lists 40’ run
at 3% voltage drop use 2/0. Victron advises max 2.5% voltage drop. Run is
measured round trip Battery – Multi – Battery for voltage drop
calculations, not just one way.  PKYS has an analysis of ABYC requirements
and doubled conductors. See their Multi installation for details.

Inverters use a class T.  Note that larger class T holders (450A+) do not
fit the smaller fuses, found this out the hard way. Also, need a master
on/off switch to disconnect battery cables to inverter.  This is critical
so someone is not electrocuted by disconnecting shore power and not knowing
(forgetting) that the inverter is ON supplying 120v AC to the boat.  Simple
“plug” AC testers may not light up, depending on your Multi settings for
“power down” modes that need a load to sense before powering on.  (Jeff
Cote PYS has great videos on this)

The Marinco BEP Pro Installer series switches and fuses are great,
especially with the connecting link bars available in different lengths.
Eliminates the need to run battery cables between some of the components
making a smaller footprint install.  Connection + side was Battery – Fuse
(ANL 300A) – unswitched distribution bus – Fuse (Class T 300A) – Master
On/OFF – Multi.

Original Unswitched distribution (going to existing battery selector
switch) also connected to distribution bus instead of original location on
+ battery terminal to clean things up.  I still need to replace the
original short 1/0 positive and negative connections from battery to
buses/shunt with 2/0.  The long run to unit is dual 1 AWG.

AC Install (in and out):  There are different ways to install the AC.  Some
suggest connecting (IN/OUT) at AC shore power entry and installing a
sub-panel for inverter AC loads.  A bypass is needed for this option
because the unit failing would stop all AC loads.  I only wanted inverter
loads on the outlets.  The Multi will pass through AC when on.  AC “IN”
used existing wiring from old battery charger 10 AWG.  I ran the AC “OUT”
10 AWG from the Mulit to the panel.  More working room if you remove the
panels in the galley cabinets, microwave, and panel holding the outlet in
top right cabinet to easily access wires going down to panel.

AC Panel Connections:  Ground connects to AC ground bus.  White connected
to outlets bus separated from the rest of the white neutral bus.  You can
use a multimeter to check continuity from the outlets at the nav station
and galley to identify the two white wires that connect to all of the port
and starboard outlets.  On mine, wires #1 and #3 from left to right looking
at the bus.  Line (black) connected to OUTLETS breaker after cutting
existing copper bus bar that ran across multiple breakers to separate AC
input from the other sources on the panel. Looks similar to the pictures
uploaded by C Ashley on 320 technical photos (thank you Chris).  Make sure
to disconnect shore power line, not just turn off breaker before doing any
AC work.

There is a Trickle Charge 4 amp feature that I used to connect to the start
battery.  Used the existing 6 AWG red line from the old charger that is
already fused with a 30 amp in-line fuse at the forward battery.  I used an
ANL fuse and holder to step-up the 10 AWG TR charge line from the unit to
the existing 6 AWG charge line because I had an extra. Options would be a
step-down crimp connector or single post.  This line is fused at both ends.

Other items:  Digital Multi Control remote panel, BMV-712, MK3-USB,
Bluetooth Dongle.

Two Cat6 cables ran from Multi to battery compartment for the display and
smart dongle.  Victron says use only pre-manufactured cables, but this
would be real challenging considering the run across the boat and up behind
the panel.  There are some tight areas that only a bare cable would fit. I
have not had any issues so far with the cables that I terminated (and
tested).  The smart dongle sticks to the battery and senses surface
temperature. Leave extra Cat6 slack to unplug this unit and plug into the
MK3-USB when programming.  This avoids having to go back to Multi
ethernet-type data ports.  Victron calls these VE.bus ports.

DIP switches must be set to recognize the remote panel.  After setting,
leave the main switch on and control with the panel.  Panel was installed
over original battery selector switch.  Nothing really unique about
installing those for a 320.  The dongle allows the Multi to connect to
Bluetooth.  It can’t be programmed with Bluetooth, but can be monitored.
To actually program the unit, download Victron Connect and use the MK3-USB
connector with a laptop (win or mac). I’m still playing with the settings.
Flashing the firmware is buggy, they are still working out issues.

With the Victron phone app, you see two Bluetooth devices (Multi (w/dongle)
and BMV). Select one at a time to see all parameters.  Having this info
display on a phone/tablet is really convenient.

Key resources:  Victron Wiring Unlimited, Victron community board, Victron
Toolkit App and the manuals.

Spec Sheet:
https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Datasheet-Multiplus-inverter-charger_2kVA-and-3kVA-120V-US-EN.pdf

I’m no expert, but I read hundreds of pages for this install.  Hope this is
helpful to the 320 community.

Rich #990