[C320-list] Water heater replacement now coolant.....

Troy Dunn troutwarrior at gmail.com
Mon May 24 04:20:22 PDT 2021


Jamie-

This is what Mack Boring AND Yanmar recommend for your engine you can get
it shipped to you in a day.

https://www.amazon.com/Havoline-Xtended-Antifreeze-Coolant-Pre-mix/dp/B0015UCQHY/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3FO2UWKSKSDHG&dchild=1&keywords=havoline+extended+life+coolant&qid=1621854941&sprefix=havoline+extended%2Caps%2C148&sr=8-2

If you decide to go a different route just make sure you are using the
orange stuff which is typically an OAT coolant.  These coolants are
formulated with additives that protect your engine from corrosion
(inhibitors).   Others will say that the color etc. doesn't matter.  It's
your boat...choices...

Regards-

Troy Dunn
Hull #514

On Sun, May 23, 2021 at 10:36 PM Joe Luciano <jnluciano at comcast.net> wrote:

> Jamie,
>
> There is nothing magical about boat engine coolant for a diesel engine.
> You don’t need Yanmar brand coolant, not sure they even have a branded
> coolant.  I use the Prestone Dex-Cool, orange stuff.  It comes pre-mixed
> 50-50 or you can buy it full strength and mix it 50-50 with distilled
> water.  You can get a gallon for $14 at any autoparts store.  The difficult
> part is going to be getting all of the air out of the system.  Search the
> site for a thread on that procedure.  Best of luck.
>
> Joe Luciano
> Second Wind #1044
>
>
>
> > On May 23, 2021, at 3:20 PM, Jamie Pett <JPett at jp2architects.com> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks for the assistance. I am struggling mightily. Got the old heater
> out but decided it would be the moment to drain and replace the motor
> coolant. Got it drained but cannot find replacement Yanmar coolant - anyone
> know where that can be found in the Annapolis area ?
> >
> >
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> >
> >
> > Be well. Be safe. Be kind.
> >
> > R. JAMES  PETT  \ AIA
> > Principal
> >
> > D. 410.646.8301
> > C. 410.446.8515
> > www.JP2architects.com
> >> On May 21, 2021, at 9:26 AM, Jamie Pett <JPett at jp2architects.com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> John - Thanks for the help. Replacing the hoses sounds like a good
> idea - do you recall what length you needed ?
> >>
> >> So the heater hoses are the closed engine loop, correct ? After the
> replacement I assume you just top off the coolant ?
> >>
> >> Jamie Pett
> >> JP2 Architects
> >>
> >>> On May 12, 2021, at 9:07 AM, John Meyers <jcmeyers7 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Jame,
> >>>
> >>> One more thing.....  Keep the coolant from the hose, if you want to
> anyway,
> >>> to be replaced after the new heater is connected. There might be a
> quart or
> >>> two. Run the engine for a couple minutes and the engine coolant level
> >>> should go down so you can add the old or new coolant. This may take a
> >>> couple cycles to get all the air out of the new lines etc and to get
> the
> >>> coolant all back in.
> >>>
> >>> As far as the reattaching the rear bracket - I don't remember that
> being a
> >>> problem. As a disclaimer - "Your experience may be different."
> >>>
> >>> If I think of anything else I'll let you know.
> >>>
> >>> John Meyers
> >>>
> >>>>> On Wed, May 12, 2021 at 8:40 AM John Meyers <jcmeyers7 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> Jamie,
> >>>>
> >>>> I did this a couple years ago.
> >>>>
> >>>> Good on the bypass. But I disconnected the end of one hose from the
> engine
> >>>> and allowed fluid to drain into a pan. Then I took off the other hose
> from
> >>>> the engine. Putting a plastic bag over one end and punching a hole in
> the
> >>>> bag I blew out any fluid remaining.
> >>>>
> >>>> Obviously , there are some plumbing and other stuff that needs to be
> >>>> removed such as electrical.
> >>>>
> >>>> There should be enough hose between the engine and heater that when
> you
> >>>> start to pull it out and you can disconnect hoses from heater.
> >>>>
> >>>> Getting the old heater out is somewhat cumbersome with lifting and
> >>>> twisting but not a huge deal. Same for putting the new one in.
> >>>>
> >>>> While the heater was out I replaced the hoses from the engine to
> heater as
> >>>> they were over 21 years old. This was not a big problem as the cubby
> below
> >>>> the oven can be removed to give hand access to the hoses to direct
> them
> >>>> from A to B.
> >>>>
> >>>> Hope this helps.
> >>>>
> >>>> John Meyers
> >>>> Wind Chime #406
> >>>> Muskegon, MI
> >>>>
> >>>> On Tue, May 11, 2021 at 7:09 PM Jamie Pett <JPett at jp2architects.com>
> >>>> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> Hi list - hope everyone is well.  So I am tackling a replacement of
> my
> >>>>> hot water heater on Bella Luna and wonder if anyone can provide a
> bit of
> >>>>> guidance. Ordered a replacement unit -same Seaward 6 ga.  that is
> currently
> >>>>> in the boat.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Pulled galley cabinet unit, tied hot and cold water lines together
> as a
> >>>>> temp.bypass, and disconnected power.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> So original Seaward 6 ga.unit largely disconnected but did not yet
> pull
> >>>>> the heat exchanger lines off.  Current question - anticipating when
> I pull
> >>>>> those the coolant from the engine will drain out ? Bigger question
> is after
> >>>>> getting the new unit connected, how do I purge the air out of the
> coolant
> >>>>> loop ?
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Oh, and any suggestions on how to get the rear mounting bracket
> >>>>> re-fastened?
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Any advice appreciated. Thanks.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Jamie Pett
> >>>>> Bella Luna
> >>>>> C-320 # 614
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Sent from my iPad
> >>>>> R. JAMES  PETT\AIA
> >>>>> Principal
> >>>>>
> >>>>> D. 410.646.8301 C.410.446.8515
> >>>>> 2811 Dillon Street, Baltimore, MD 21224
> >>>>> E.JPett at jp2architects.com
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> JP2 A R C H I T E C T S
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Be well. Be safe. Be Kind.
> >>>>>
> >>>>
>
>


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