[C320-list] Portlight Replacement/Repair?

[Christian]

David,
the source of your leak is likely the "G" gasket.  When I got my 320 6
years ago, every portlight leaked, and leaked badly.  I replaced all the
rubber gaskets.  Yes, they are a real PITA to replace.  All still leaked.
I then replace the O rings in all the dog ears.  All still leaked.  I then
read about the G gasket on our list, looked closely at mine, and yup, dry
rotted.  Given your hull number, I'd guess yours are dry rotted too.

I had perfect success with fixing without rebedding the hatch.

On each portlight, horizontal, mid section, visible on the outside (deck
side) of the hatch, is a seam, filled with a gray gasket.  I would guess if
you inspect closely, you'll find that dry rotted.  What I did is take thin
needle nose plier, and a pick, and pulled that seam portion of the gasket
out (this is the g gasket, if you are able to extract a whole portion out
without tearing, you'll see why it's called a g gasket).  It should come
out fairly easily, with minimal need for cleaning the surface afterwards.

Then, after you've removed the g gasket, on the outside (deskside) cleanly
take off the aluminum along that seam, and where it meets your fiberglass.

Then, with this Dow Corning sealant:
https://www.catalinadirect.com/shop-by-boat/catalina-350/hatches-ports/replacement-parts/sealant-for-hatches-amp-plex-fixed-ports-black/

>From the outside thickly fill in gap.  Then, with the back of a spoon,
smooth the sealant flat (why you need the tape off your frame and
fiberglass).  Then, apply another squirt on the inside of the frame (this
is a little harder to reach with the sealant nozzle, and unfortunately
harder if you have your rubber gasket for the lens in, but can be done;
fortunately on the inside, doesn't have to be as clean, it's hidden well).
Let cure.  Come back with a razor blade, very lightly score the sealant
along your taped area, and then remove the tape and the excess sealant on
the tape should cleanly break.

I have not had one single drop leak since I did this.  It was the source of
ALL my leaks.  And this is actually easier to do than replacing that rubber
lens gasket.  I did all 7 of my portlights in about 4 hours.  Don't cheat
and get another sealant.  You want that Dow Coring sealant I recommended.
Its used to hold windows in skyscrapers.  It's the real deal, works great,
bonds well, and breaks along light scoring for a nice clean up.  You could
never tell I did the job it was so clean (except for my first frame where I
hadn't taped, and then realized I needed to tape for this sealant).

Hope this helps, happy to answer any questions.

-Christian Caperton 1994 C320 #138 "Canuck" Monroe Harbor, Chicago, IL

On Thu, Mar 24, 2022 at 9:23 PM David Wellerstein <dwellers at mac.com> wrote:

> I’ll put this out to the list…
>
> We had several heavy rains this year and our ’94’s port lights almost all
> leaked, some quite badly.  Even to the point where I avoid getting spray on
> them when I hose the boat down.  They are quite crazed (as am I) too.
>
> We bought new rubber gaskets but they are an absolute B to put in and I’m
> not sure that’s the source of the trouble anyway.  I think the deck hatches
> are ok though I did need to re-affix the head hatch glass to the trim.
> That seems to be holding.
>
> Has anyone done a full port light replacement?  Order of magnitude cost?
> They appear to be about $240 apiece from Catalina Direct so my simple math
> says that’s about $1700 for the ports.  Replacing them myself looks very
> involved, tedious and time consuming.  Is this something a general yard can
> do or are there specialists out there?  It appears the non-opening windows
> are watertight but should they be replaced as well?
>
> Thanks as always!
>
> David
> C320 #118 Dream Catcher
>
>
>