[C320-list] Portlight Replacement/Repair?

[Christian]

David,
apologies, just addressing a bad typo that might be confusing.  Where I
said: "Then, after you've removed the g gasket, on the outside (deskside)
cleanly take off the aluminum along that seam, and where it meets your
fiberglass."  Take off should have been TAPE OFF.  You DO NOT need to
remove the aluminum frame for how I fixed my leaks.  Apologies on that.
-Christian

On Fri, Mar 25, 2022 at 10:52 AM Christian <ccaper at gmail.com> wrote:

> David,
> the source of your leak is likely the "G" gasket.  When I got my 320 6
> years ago, every portlight leaked, and leaked badly.  I replaced all the
> rubber gaskets.  Yes, they are a real PITA to replace.  All still leaked.
> I then replace the O rings in all the dog ears.  All still leaked.  I then
> read about the G gasket on our list, looked closely at mine, and yup, dry
> rotted.  Given your hull number, I'd guess yours are dry rotted too.
>
> I had perfect success with fixing without rebedding the hatch.
>
> On each portlight, horizontal, mid section, visible on the outside (deck
> side) of the hatch, is a seam, filled with a gray gasket.  I would guess if
> you inspect closely, you'll find that dry rotted.  What I did is take thin
> needle nose plier, and a pick, and pulled that seam portion of the gasket
> out (this is the g gasket, if you are able to extract a whole portion out
> without tearing, you'll see why it's called a g gasket).  It should come
> out fairly easily, with minimal need for cleaning the surface afterwards.
>
> Then, after you've removed the g gasket, on the outside (deskside) cleanly
> take off the aluminum along that seam, and where it meets your fiberglass.
>
> Then, with this Dow Corning sealant:
>
> https://www.catalinadirect.com/shop-by-boat/catalina-350/hatches-ports/replacement-parts/sealant-for-hatches-amp-plex-fixed-ports-black/
>
> From the outside thickly fill in gap.  Then, with the back of a spoon,
> smooth the sealant flat (why you need the tape off your frame and
> fiberglass).  Then, apply another squirt on the inside of the frame (this
> is a little harder to reach with the sealant nozzle, and unfortunately
> harder if you have your rubber gasket for the lens in, but can be done;
> fortunately on the inside, doesn't have to be as clean, it's hidden well).
> Let cure.  Come back with a razor blade, very lightly score the sealant
> along your taped area, and then remove the tape and the excess sealant on
> the tape should cleanly break.
>
> I have not had one single drop leak since I did this.  It was the source
> of ALL my leaks.  And this is actually easier to do than replacing that
> rubber lens gasket.  I did all 7 of my portlights in about 4 hours.  Don't
> cheat and get another sealant.  You want that Dow Coring sealant I
> recommended.  Its used to hold windows in skyscrapers.  It's the real deal,
> works great, bonds well, and breaks along light scoring for a nice clean
> up.  You could never tell I did the job it was so clean (except for my
> first frame where I hadn't taped, and then realized I needed to tape for
> this sealant).
>
> Hope this helps, happy to answer any questions.
>
> -Christian Caperton 1994 C320 #138 "Canuck" Monroe Harbor, Chicago, IL
>
> On Thu, Mar 24, 2022 at 9:23 PM David Wellerstein <dwellers at mac.com>
> wrote:
>
>> I’ll put this out to the list…
>>
>> We had several heavy rains this year and our ’94’s port lights almost all
>> leaked, some quite badly.  Even to the point where I avoid getting spray on
>> them when I hose the boat down.  They are quite crazed (as am I) too.
>>
>> We bought new rubber gaskets but they are an absolute B to put in and I’m
>> not sure that’s the source of the trouble anyway.  I think the deck hatches
>> are ok though I did need to re-affix the head hatch glass to the trim.
>> That seems to be holding.
>>
>> Has anyone done a full port light replacement?  Order of magnitude cost?
>> They appear to be about $240 apiece from Catalina Direct so my simple math
>> says that’s about $1700 for the ports.  Replacing them myself looks very
>> involved, tedious and time consuming.  Is this something a general yard can
>> do or are there specialists out there?  It appears the non-opening windows
>> are watertight but should they be replaced as well?
>>
>> Thanks as always!
>>
>> David
>> C320 #118 Dream Catcher
>>
>>
>>