[C320-list] Knot Meter Sender Replacement

[Steve Magennis]

Cut off the old paddle wheel assembly close to the head.  Cut off the
new paddle wheel assemblw leaving 1 - 2 feet of wire.  Connect the old
wire to the new paddle wheel assembly using crimp butt connections and
shrink tubing.  Works fine.  It's what I did last year on the advice of
my local boat electronics expert.

Steve
Alchemist #909

--- Quentin Murphy <qmurphy at sympatico.ca> wrote:

> I'm replacing the Raymarine knot meter sender (thru-hull unit with
> paddle
> wheel) as it's defective. I've tested with a new sender by spinning
> the
> wheel and the display showed "speed" just to make sure it is the
> sender
> that's at fault. Due to the five female spade connectors on the
> instrument
> end of the long cable that comes with the sender I'm having
> difficulty
> removing the old sender cable down through the port pedestal guard
> tube to
> the aft cabin ceiling below.  There is a cover for the steering
> pulleys with
> about 12 screws which I removed.  This pedestal guard tube is so
> packed as
> there are many other cables for other instruments in the port side of
> the
> guard as well as in the starboard side.  As I have to attach a thin
> nylon
> fish line to the end of this with electrical tape all over the spade
> connectors, I feel there is no way to pull them past the other cables
> (without it breaking apart or damaging the other cables.  The only
> way this
> could be pulled in my mind is: disconnecting all of cables to the
> instruments and pulling them all out as at one go and then pulling
> them all
> back, minus the old cable, adding the replacement cable.  That would
> be a
> lot of hassle.  Can anyone see a problem if I cut the cable (say
> under the
> port settee) and solder the fire wires in this cable, using heat
> shrink on
> each wire and then a larger heat shrink on the cable jacket?  It's
> pretty
> dry there, especially if I tyrap it high up.
> 
> Quentin Murphy
> Celtic Knot #667
> 
> 
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