[C320-list] Best way to bring along dinghy?

[Warren Updike]

Solution may depend on where you sail.  On open water: LI Sound, offshore; with more swells and potential for really bad conditions towing may not be the best, therefore argueing for davits.  I have no opinion re. davits.  

Here on the Chesapeake Bay, towing is not a problem.  I use a bridle made fast to each of the aft cleats.  On the bridle I have a small block with a carabiner to which I attach the painter.  This block allows the dink to easily move back and forth on the stern wave with minimum friction on the bridle.  The painter is a polypropylene line (it floats) attached to a bridle on the dinghy.  The dinghy bridle has a float to keep it on the surface (West Marine.)  Into the painter, I have tied two simple loops.  The one farthest from the dink is the normal towing position.  This loop is placed on the carabiner and keeps the dink on the stern wave at about 5 kts.  When under 4 kts, I pull up the second loop, closest to dink, and hook it on the carabiner.  This keeps the dink on the slower stern wave.  Also, in this position, the painter and dink bridle are not long enough to reach to the rudder or prop, so this is the position when maneuvering or anchoring.  The bitter end of the painter is led to one of the stern cleats and secured with a long loop to allow the block on the towing bridle to roll back and forth; but, not long enough to hang in the water.  Securing the bitter end acts as a safety line: you surely don't want to loose your dink under way as this only happens under the worst of conditions.  There you have it.

Stern cleats >> bridle >> block >> ss carabiner >> painter >> ss carabiner >> ss ring >> towing bridle >> ss carabiners >> "D" rings on bow of dink.

It is a simple matter to pull the dink up close astern.  I pull the second loop up under the stern pulpit and hook it over the flag pole extension on the rail (obviously, I don't use it for the flag.)  This is the position for all maneuvers other than when backing into a slip. This is where it lies when anchoring.  The dink is self-tending and is never a problem even when backing down on the rode.

We usually back into our slip so it's necessary to haul the dink forward and secure it close to the bow.  Then, no matter how you back down, the dink stays forward of the boat.  This is the only situation where we have to untie the towing bridle.  With enough slack in the towing bridle, the swim ladder can be lowered and the bridle will remain in-place under the latter lieing on the platform.

All hardware (carabiner and hooks,) must be stainless steel with positive locking.  Under no circumstances should you use bronze hooks.  Our painter is a poly water ski line, 3/8" I think cut to proper length.  This is very durable line; but, be sure to inspect it often, especially at the wear points as the stresses of towing can be great.

If you think this too elaborate, just take a line fast on a stern cleat and secure to a ring on the dink.  I've seen people tow on a single line, and others tow with the bow pulled up out of the water.  The mfgr. of our dink says it can be towed bow out of the water on the tube ends.  Traditional advice is to tow at top of the stern wave as this minimizes towing effort and, consequently, stress on the dinghy.  I don't know what most right.  The above is best for me.

Warren & Pattie Updike
C320, #62, 1994, "Warr De Mar"
Frog Mortar Creek, Middle River
Chesapeake Bay