[C320-list] Comments on older C320 "floors"

[bruceheyman at cox.net]

Tony,
I bought the Ultimate Sole kit, solvent, sealer and finish with the intention of redoing the sole on our Sabre 30.  We were fortunately able to upgrade to our C320 before I had/got to do the work.  Everyone on the Sabre list swore by the stuff.  With all but bare feet they claimed that even when wet it provided fantastic footing and the gloss was to die for.  I still have the kit and may tackle the job once I get a few other things done.  I wonder if I have a mildew problem in one of the panels.  There is a 2"x6" rectangular area a couple of inches in front of the compression post on the panel that covers the bilge.  It almost looks like it was burnt but the surface is still smooth and glossy.  Is this similar to what you saw?
Also did you do the companion way steps?
Thanks,
Bruce
Somerset 671 SoCal

---- amshd2 at aol.com wrote: 
> Jon
>  
> I have hull#30.  I refinished the sole last winter.  My table base came off with out any effort.
>  
> I took the whole sole home and first stripped it using Dads stripper and a plastic scraper Dads is the best chemical stripper I have ever used stuff worked great.  This really helped to make the job go much faster and left a great surface to work with.  I used the cleaner that comes from Ultimate Sole to clean the sole before and after sanding.  I also used wood bleach to get out most of the black stain around the screw holes.  And yes be careful not to send to hard.
>  
> I used the Ultimate Sole product.  It came out great easy to put on with little to no sanding between coats. The stuff also dry's fast.  I could not believe how great it came out.  The stuff has a anti slip agent in it and it does work.   The guys at Ultimate Sole were great to work with I called them a couple of times and got some great pointers.   
>  
> Now 2-3 people in my marina are going to use the stuff. 
>  
> I highly  recommend the stuff. 
>  
>  
> Tony 
>    
>  
>  
> -----Original Message-----
> From: jonvez at comcast.net
> To: c320-list at catalina320.com
> Sent: Sat, 30 Dec 2006 7:35 PM
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Comments on older C320 "floors"
> 
> 
> Thanks Bill...greatly appreciate it! Didn't know what was on the other side of 
> those bolts....
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Jon
> 
> -------------- Original message -------------- 
> From: Bill Culbertson <billculb_a2 at yahoo.com> 
> 
> > Jon, 
> > 
> > Just remove the six largeish screws encircling the conical base of the table 
> and 
> > lift the whole thing out. I sent you 3 photos offline from when did this two 
> > years ago. I took all the floor pieces home so that Kathy could refinish them. 
> 
> > 
> > -bill 
> > 
> > 
> > ----- Original Message ---- 
> > From: "jonvez at comcast.net" 
> > To: C320-List 
> > Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2006 7:48:27 AM 
> > Subject: Re: [C320-list] Comments on older C320 "floors" 
> > 
> > 
> > For those who have removed the base of the table, are there any tips or 
> tricks? 
> > I want to pull of my floor boards but have avoided this area as I haven't been 
> 
> > able to determine the best way to get the base off...Thanks in advance... 
> > 
> > Regards, 
> > 
> > Jon Vez 
> > 
> > -------------- Original message -------------- 
> > From: "Warren Updike" 
> > 
> > > In this context, I use the word "floor" to mean that area under the sole 
> while 
> > > the wood surface that is walked on is, well, the cabin sole. I learned this 
> > > somewhre, I forget where. Anyway, last winter I removed the entire sole to 
> > > refinish it at home. This gave an excellent opportunity to check all the 
> bilge 
> > > spaces in the "floor." 
> > > 
> > > As our #62 is among the oldest C320s, I can't say when the floor/sole design 
> 
> > > changed; but, change it did. I used the diagram obtained from the document 
> on 
> > > our website, and marked all the places where there is a drain from one space 
> 
> > to 
> > > another, and each of the rubber plugs in the stringers. 
> > > 
> > > For those who have the new floor/sole, On "Warr De Mar," after removing the 
> > > wood sole, there are a number of bilge spaces created by the stringers that 
> > run 
> > > athwart-ship. Some are enclosed by fore-aft plates epoxied between the 
> > > stringers. Some of these "bilges" or chambers have a tube or limber hole to 
> > > drain into the next bilge space. Some do not. The plugs in the stringers are 
> 
> > > after-market mods to allow any water to be drained from within the 
> stringers. 
> > > 
> > > The speedo on these olders hulls is directly under the 2-drawer cabinet in 
> the 
> > > V-berth. To remove it, I pull the cabinet to get close to reasonable access 
> to 
> > > the speedo. Even so, it is so unwieldy working in this space that fully one 
> or 
> > > two cups of water invariably enter the boat. So, before I undertake to 
> remove 
> > > the speedo, I first plug and tape the drain tube to the next bilge space 
> then 
> > > remove the accumulated water when I'm done. If any moves past the taped 
> plug, 
> > > it goes into the space under the sole in the V-berth and then into the space 
> 
> > > immediately aft of the bulkhead. That space has no drain pipe. I find it 
> > > necessary to pull that part of the sole to check. 
> > > 
> > > Under the table in the salon, behind the mast, there are two bilge spaces 
> that 
> > > have no drain and no plug in the stringer. Before I refinished the sole, 
> there 
> > > was water in there forever that contributed to the buildup of mildew under 
> the 
> > > sole. The mildew had migrated into the wood of the sole and runined the 
> finish 
> > > hence the refinishing of the sole. But, that's anothe story. Now, we check 
> > > this space twice a year by pulling the table out with the base on and 
> viewing 
> > in 
> > > the bilge space. This fall, we found about a cup of water between the two 
> > space 
> > > with no clue to it's source. 
> > > 
> > > Between the bilge space with the pump immediately fwd of the galley deck on 
> > > centerline, there is a plug in the fwd-aft place separating this space and 
> the 
> > > one to port that is between the galley space and the pump space. The way 
> this 
> > > hole was drilled through the fillets, it opened access to the space between 
> > the 
> > > stringers. No matter how I try, I don't seem to be able to make this 
> > > water-tight with the rubber plug. Next spring I plan to tape it with outdoor 
> 
> > > duct tape. I intend to keep bilge water in the bilge. If anyone has a 
> similar 
> > > experience and can offer a better solution, I surely would appreciate 
> hearing 
> > > it. 
> > > 
> > > Now, if I can get a few consecutive days of stay-at-home weather, I'll post 
> my 
> > > sole refinish story on the 320 website along with the Hurth Shop Manual that 
> 
> > > covers all of the Hurth gears. 
> > > 
> > > Warren & Pattie Updike 
> > > C320, #62, 1994, "Warr De Mar" 
> > > Frog Mortar Creek, Middle River 
> > > Chesapeake Bay 
> > 
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