[C320-list] Comments on older C320 "floors"

[amshd2 at aol.com]

Jon
 
 This is the time of year to do it.  If you can take it home to do the work it really makes the a lot easier.  It was not hard it just took time.   
 
The stuff really does work great.  I took a section that only had 2 coats on to a High End lumber and wood working shop so I could order a piece of maple to match the sole.  They could not believe how great it looked and wanted to know what I used.  Oh yeah by the way some of the early models have a teak and maple sole.  
 
Tony   
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: jonvez at comcast.net
To: c320-list at catalina320.com
Sent: Tue, 2 Jan 2007 7:49 AM
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Comments on older C320 "floors"


Thanks for the info. Tony. I've been babying my sole in order to delay the 
inevitable--but it sounds like this Ultimate Sole system is the way to go.....

Regards,

Jon

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: amshd2 at aol.com 

> Jon 
> 
> I have hull#30. I refinished the sole last winter. My table base came off with 

> out any effort. 
> 
> I took the whole sole home and first stripped it using Dads stripper and a 
> plastic scraper Dads is the best chemical stripper I have ever used stuff 
worked 
> great. This really helped to make the job go much faster and left a great 
> surface to work with. I used the cleaner that comes from Ultimate Sole to 
clean 
> the sole before and after sanding. I also used wood bleach to get out most of 
> the black stain around the screw holes. And yes be careful not to send to 
hard. 
> 
> I used the Ultimate Sole product. It came out great easy to put on with little 

> to no sanding between coats. The stuff also dry's fast. I could not believe 
how 
> great it came out. The stuff has a anti slip agent in it and it does work. 
> The guys at Ultimate Sole were great to work with I called them a couple of 
> times and got some great pointers. 
> 
> Now 2-3 people in my marina are going to use the stuff. 
> 
> I highly recommend the stuff. 
> 
> 
> Tony 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message----- 
> From: jonvez at comcast.net 
> To: c320-list at catalina320.com 
> Sent: Sat, 30 Dec 2006 7:35 PM 
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Comments on older C320 "floors" 
> 
> 
> Thanks Bill...greatly appreciate it! Didn't know what was on the other side of 

> those bolts.... 
> 
> Regards, 
> 
> Jon 
> 
> -------------- Original message -------------- 
> From: Bill Culbertson 
> 
> > Jon, 
> > 
> > Just remove the six largeish screws encircling the conical base of the table 

> and 
> > lift the whole thing out. I sent you 3 photos offline from when did this two 

> > years ago. I took all the floor pieces home so that Kathy could refinish 
them. 
> 
> > 
> > -bill 
> > 
> > 
> > ----- Original Message ---- 
> > From: "jonvez at comcast.net" 
> > To: C320-List 
> > Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2006 7:48:27 AM 
> > Subject: Re: [C320-list] Comments on older C320 "floors" 
> > 
> > 
> > For those who have removed the base of the table, are there any tips or 
> tricks? 
> > I want to pull of my floor boards but have avoided this area as I haven't 
been 
> 
> > able to determine the best way to get the base off...Thanks in advance... 
> > 
> > Regards, 
> > 
> > Jon Vez 
> > 
> > -------------- Original message -------------- 
> > From: "Warren Updike" 
> > 
> > > In this context, I use the word "floor" to mean that area under the sole 
> while 
> > > the wood surface that is walked on is, well, the cabin sole. I learned 
this 
> > > somewhre, I forget where. Anyway, last winter I removed the entire sole to 

> > > refinish it at home. This gave an excellent opportunity to check all the 
> bilge 
> > > spaces in the "floor." 
> > > 
> > > As our #62 is among the oldest C320s, I can't say when the floor/sole 
design 
> 
> > > changed; but, change it did. I used the diagram obtained from the document 

> on 
> > > our website, and marked all the places where there is a drain from one 
space 
> 
> > to 
> > > another, and each of the rubber plugs in the stringers. 
> > > 
> > > For those who have the new floor/sole, On "Warr De Mar," after removing 
the 
> > > wood sole, there are a number of bilge spaces created by the stringers 
that 
> > run 
> > > athwart-ship. Some are enclosed by fore-aft plates epoxied between the 
> > > stringers. Some of these "bilges" or chambers have a tube or limber hole 
to 
> > > drain into the next bilge space. Some do not. The plugs in the stringers 
are 
> 
> > > after-market mods to allow any water to be drained from within the 
> stringers. 
> > > 
> > > The speedo on these olders hulls is directly under the 2-drawer cabinet in 

> the 
> > > V-berth. To remove it, I pull the cabinet to get close to reasonable 
access 
> to 
> > > the speedo. Even so, it is so unwieldy working in this space that fully 
one 
> or 
> > > two cups of water invariably enter the boat. So, before I undertake to 
> remove 
> > > the speedo, I first plug and tape the drain tube to the next bilge space 
> then 
> > > remove the accumulated water when I'm done. If any moves past the taped 
> plug, 
> > > it goes into the space under the sole in the V-berth and then into the 
space 
> 
> > > immediately aft of the bulkhead. That space has no drain pipe. I find it 
> > > necessary to pull that part of the sole to check. 
> > > 
> > > Under the table in the salon, behind the mast, there are two bilge spaces 
> that 
> > > have no drain and no plug in the stringer. Before I refinished the sole, 
> there 
> > > was water in there forever that contributed to the buildup of mildew under 

> the 
> > > sole. The mildew had migrated into the wood of the sole and runined the 
> finish 
> > > hence the refinishing of the sole. But, that's anothe story. Now, we check 

> > > this space twice a year by pulling the table out with the base on and 
> viewing 
> > in 
> > > the bilge space. This fall, we found about a cup of water between the two 
> > space 
> > > with no clue to it's source. 
> > > 
> > > Between the bilge space with the pump immediately fwd of the galley deck 
on 
> > > centerline, there is a plug in the fwd-aft place separating this space and 

> the 
> > > one to port that is between the galley space and the pump space. The way 
> this 
> > > hole was drilled through the fillets, it opened access to the space 
between 
> > the 
> > > stringers. No matter how I try, I don't seem to be able to make this 
> > > water-tight with the rubber plug. Next spring I plan to tape it with 
outdoor 
> 
> > > duct tape. I intend to keep bilge water in the bilge. If anyone has a 
> similar 
> > > experience and can offer a better solution, I surely would appreciate 
> hearing 
> > > it. 
> > > 
> > > Now, if I can get a few consecutive days of stay-at-home weather, I'll 
post 
> my 
> > > sole refinish story on the 320 website along with the Hurth Shop Manual 
that 
> 
> > > covers all of the Hurth gears. 
> > > 
> > > Warren & Pattie Updike 
> > > C320, #62, 1994, "Warr De Mar" 
> > > Frog Mortar Creek, Middle River 
> > > Chesapeake Bay 
> > 
> > __________________________________________________ 
> > Do You Yahoo!? 
> > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
> > http://mail.yahoo.com 
> ________________________________________________________________________ 
> Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security 
> tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, 
free 
> AOL Mail and more. 
________________________________________________________________________
Check out the new AOL.  Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more.