[C320-list] Autohelm replacement belt

[Karl Mielenhausen _/)]

The newer ST4000+ manual (dated August 2001) describes a knurled clutch  
adjustment knob. This appears to be located on the rear ring half on the  
opposite side of the motor from the clutch engagement lever, exactly where  
the pry-off cap, which Warren describes below, is located.
Can anyone tell me about what model year and hull # that the newer design  
(with the knurled clutch adjustment knob) started showing up on our boats?

Thanks,
Karl

On Sun, 17 Aug 2008 16:24:11 -0400, warren updike <wupdike at hotmail.com>  
wrote:

> Not necessarily. What you're seeing is the original problem I had. Take  
> the
> wheel ring off as described earlier. Separate the rings by inserting a  
> screw
> driver in the slot from the outside. Gently twist the screw driver then  
> move
> a few inches and repeat. The two halves of the ring will come apart.
>
> I removed all of the plastic wheels. Remove the metal plate to expose the
> two wheels that operate as the clutch, one of which is movable with the
> clutch handle. The one operated by the handle actually is adjustable from
> the outside. Remove these wheels. I forget now, but maybe I had to remove
> the clutch handle to remove that wheel.
>
> I found accumulated dirt and corrosion inside the bushing of the wheels.
> After 14 years, I'm not surprised. I used WD-40 and some fine steel wool  
> to
> gently clean and polish the metal surfaces. Autohelm advises not to
> lubricate the wheel bearings. Probably good advice.
>
> Reinstall all the wheels and study how the clutch works as you'll have to
> adjust the clutch tension once the wheel is back on the boat. There  
> should
> be a black cap on the back of the wheel ring to access the adjuster. If
> there is too much back pressure from the belt on the clutch wheel, it  
> will
> disengage spontaneously. Not good. I found that I needed an allen wrench  
> of
> the proper size and a ring tool (a pliers with pins at right angle that  
> fit
> in the two holes on the retaining nut of the adjuster,) to hold the
> retaining nut while turning the adjustment cam. It's a trial and error
> thing. You may know by feel how much pressure is right.
>
> In reassembling the two halves of the wheel rings, position the belt so  
> it's
> out of the way and gently press the two halves together moving around the
> ring. It should pop together at some point. Might be a good idea to  
> replace
> the belt while you're at it.
>
> You should replace the pin in the clutch handle with a new pin if you've
> removed it. I drilled the original metric hole in the shaft to 1/16" as
> metric pins were hard to find (see previous message.)
>
> I have the Raytheon owners manual and the service & repair manual for the
> ST4000. Send me a request by direct e-mail and I'll reply with them.
>
> Warren & Pattie Updike
> Catalina 320, #62, "Warr De Mar"
> Middle River, Chesapeake Bay
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> I am having trouble with my autohelm.  The  clutch handle works itself  
> up,
> disengaging the unit.  Also it feels as if it is stuttering, like there  
> is
> too much pressure on the rudder for the autohelm to handle.  And there is
> not a lot of pressure.  Does this sound like I need to replace the belt?
> Holly
>
>
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>



-- 
Karl Mielenhausen
Catalina 320 Hull 690
New Bern, NC