[C320-list] Teak oil and "crib boards"

[Chris Burti]

One caution...people don't use boiled linseed oil much anymore, so one old
bit of common knowledge might be in danger of being lost.

Spontaneous combustion is more common in the movies than in real life, but
it is a very real phenomenon. The term refers to what occurs when an object
suddenly bursts into flame without an external source of ignition such as
lightning, an electrical short, lit cigarette or match, sparks, etc.

 With linseed oil and other resinous oils used to finish wood, heat is
generated during the drying process.  These oils do not dry through the
evaporation of the carrier solvent as paint does, but rather they dry
through oxidation. While it is a difficult phenomenon to reproduce, it is a
very real danger.The chemical process of oxidation generates heat, enough
of which, in turn, can generate a fire. Used as a finish on furniture, the
oil oxidizes in open air so the surface never gets warm to the touch!  But
left in a pile, oil-soaked rags can ignite. As the oil oxidizes, the rags
apparently act as an insulator, allowing the oxidizing oil  to become hot
enough to cause the cloth to smoke and eventually ignite.  The bigger the
pile, the more heat and the greater the likelihood of ignition. is
generated The warmer the environment, the quicker the rags can reach
ignition temperature.

Rags used with linseed oil based products should be rinsed in solvent,
spread out and left to air dry in a cool shaded location.

Fair winds,

Chris Burti

Commitment #867






On Tue, Feb 5, 2013 at 10:51 AM, Chris Burti <clburti at gmail.com> wrote:

> I'm going to put on my 'wood butcher' hat and share some 'old school'
> information about oil finishes.
>
> A lot of teak oil sold today is of low quality and produces inferior
> results...this leads to poor performance which, in turn, leads folks to
> purchase other easy to use products which though more durable, are
> often inferior in appearance.
>
> Good teak oil is often expensive when purchased in marine stores, so most
> people will opt for the cheap stuff which has a low percentage of solids
> and may not have any UV protection added at all.
>
> The way oil finishes work is that they contain resins (solids) and
> solvents. The solvents allow the resins to be applied easily and to
> penetrate the wood fibers. When the solvents evaporate, the resins harden
> leaving a smooth and relatively durable finish.
>
> It initially takes several applications, drying between coats, to build up
> a good finish. Since cheap finishes contain a higher percentage of solvents
> to hit a lower price point, it takes many more coats to obtain the same
> quality finish as the better products...oops...that  actually makes the
> cheap stuff more expensive.
>
> To make matters more confusing, there are better quality brands that are
> cheaper than some of the more expensive brands (that are actually just
> 'cheap stuff'' priced high). Well labeled products will have the percentage
> of solids on the label. However, it is pretty easy to compare products that
> are packaged in clear bottles. Shake the products enough to produce some
> bubbles and you can readily see the difference in viscosity. The products
> with thicker fluids will have a higher solids content.
> Clean your teak thoroughly. Skip the expensive teak cleaners and use a
> household cleaner containing Oxalic acid. This is a strong organic acid
> that is a common ingredient in wood bleaches and which does not harm the
> wood fibers, (also a great rust and tarnish remover as well). Zud,
> Bartenders Friend and Kaboom all work well. Rinse well will fresh water and
> let dry thoroughly. Sand smooth if the grain is severely weathered as the
> grooves trap dirt. Do not use anything finer than 120 grit sanpaper
> as finer grits will close up the wood pores and reduce the penetration of
> the finish.
>
>  To maintain the finish, wash frequently with mild soap and water and
> when the finish starts to fade, apply a fresh coat of oil. This usually
> means recoating at least twice a year and quarterly would be best...it is
> pretty easy to apply a freshening coat when you maintain it rather than let
> it go. If you have any teak attached to Fiberglas, wax the glass before
> applying your teak oil and any spills will clean right up.
>
> Now, if you're really cheap or simply want a better product, make your own
> teak oil.
>
> Recipe = mix equal parts 1.1.1.
>
> High solids tung oil
> Spar varnish (containing UV inhibitors)
> Boiled Linseed oil
>
> You can purchase all of these ingredients inexpensively in the paint
> department of any big box store.
>
> Fair winds,
> Chris Burti
> Commitment, #867
>
> On Mon, Feb 4, 2013 at 11:25 PM, Nat Antler <nantler at pacbell.net> wrote:
>
>> FYI: I just took my boards home after securing the hatch with an old
>> piece of plywood and completely removed the original heavy stain/varnish
>> with remover. Then sanded thoroughly to reveal some nice natural teak. I
>> considered Cetol, but decided to oil them with West Marine teak oil. They
>> look fantastic. I'll have to refresh them occasionally, but since they are
>> protected somewhat by the dodger I'm hoping it won't be a problem. It will
>> be easy to keep them oiled up and if I want to Cetol them at some point it
>> won't require removing an existing finish. Anyone try a similar approach?
>>
>> Nat,
>> 1995 320 "Natiki"
>> San Diego
>
>
>
>
> --
> Chris Burti
> Farmville, NC
>
>



-- 
Chris Burti
Farmville, NC