[C320-list] Teak oil and "crib boards"

[Bruce Heyman]

Chris,
Thanks...I know how discussions on varnish, oil, or cetal on teak can lead to religious wars but would you use the same process you described below on a teak cockpit table?
Thanks,
Bruce
Somerset Dana Point (currently Redondo Beach)

Bruce Heyman
(949) 289-8400

Kaare Wold <sailor3952 at charter.net> wrote:

>Very educational and informative.  Thanks for taking the time to publish 
>this information.
>Kaare Wold   Sheet Music #945
>----- Original Message ----- 
>From: "Flyingmonkey" <lou at flyingmonkey.im>
>To: <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
>Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2013 10:03 AM
>Subject: Re: [C320-list] Teak oil and "crib boards"
>
>
>Wow! Thank you Chris for sharing that bit of technical wood care knowledge. 
>I had never given teak oil much thought before. Both interesting and 
>valuable.
>
>Thank you,
>Lou
>
>On Feb 5, 2013, at 10:51 AM, Chris Burti <clburti at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I'm going to put on my 'wood butcher' hat and share some 'old school'
>> information about oil finishes.
>>
>> A lot of teak oil sold today is of low quality and produces inferior
>> results...this leads to poor performance which, in turn, leads folks to
>> purchase other easy to use products which though more durable, are
>> often inferior in appearance.
>>
>> Good teak oil is often expensive when purchased in marine stores, so most
>> people will opt for the cheap stuff which has a low percentage of solids
>> and may not have any UV protection added at all.
>>
>> The way oil finishes work is that they contain resins (solids) and
>> solvents. The solvents allow the resins to be applied easily and to
>> penetrate the wood fibers. When the solvents evaporate, the resins harden
>> leaving a smooth and relatively durable finish.
>>
>> It initially takes several applications, drying between coats, to build up
>> a good finish. Since cheap finishes contain a higher percentage of 
>> solvents
>> to hit a lower price point, it takes many more coats to obtain the same
>> quality finish as the better products...oops...that  actually makes the
>> cheap stuff more expensive.
>>
>> To make matters more confusing, there are better quality brands that are
>> cheaper than some of the more expensive brands (that are actually just
>> 'cheap stuff'' priced high). Well labeled products will have the 
>> percentage
>> of solids on the label. However, it is pretty easy to compare products 
>> that
>> are packaged in clear bottles. Shake the products enough to produce some
>> bubbles and you can readily see the difference in viscosity. The products
>> with thicker fluids will have a higher solids content.
>> Clean your teak thoroughly. Skip the expensive teak cleaners and use a
>> household cleaner containing Oxalic acid. This is a strong organic acid
>> that is a common ingredient in wood bleaches and which does not harm the
>> wood fibers, (also a great rust and tarnish remover as well). Zud,
>> Bartenders Friend and Kaboom all work well. Rinse well will fresh water 
>> and
>> let dry thoroughly. Sand smooth if the grain is severely weathered as the
>> grooves trap dirt. Do not use anything finer than 120 grit sanpaper
>> as finer grits will close up the wood pores and reduce the penetration of
>> the finish.
>>
>> To maintain the finish, wash frequently with mild soap and water and
>> when the finish starts to fade, apply a fresh coat of oil. This usually
>> means recoating at least twice a year and quarterly would be best...it is
>> pretty easy to apply a freshening coat when you maintain it rather than 
>> let
>> it go. If you have any teak attached to Fiberglas, wax the glass before
>> applying your teak oil and any spills will clean right up.
>>
>> Now, if you're really cheap or simply want a better product, make your own
>> teak oil.
>>
>> Recipe = mix equal parts 1.1.1.
>>
>> High solids tung oil
>> Spar varnish (containing UV inhibitors)
>> Boiled Linseed oil
>>
>> You can purchase all of these ingredients inexpensively in the paint
>> department of any big box store.
>>
>> Fair winds,
>> Chris Burti
>> Commitment, #867
>>
>> On Mon, Feb 4, 2013 at 11:25 PM, Nat Antler <nantler at pacbell.net> wrote:
>>
>>> FYI: I just took my boards home after securing the hatch with an old 
>>> piece
>>> of plywood and completely removed the original heavy stain/varnish with
>>> remover. Then sanded thoroughly to reveal some nice natural teak. I
>>> considered Cetol, but decided to oil them with West Marine teak oil. They
>>> look fantastic. I'll have to refresh them occasionally, but since they 
>>> are
>>> protected somewhat by the dodger I'm hoping it won't be a problem. It 
>>> will
>>> be easy to keep them oiled up and if I want to Cetol them at some point 
>>> it
>>> won't require removing an existing finish. Anyone try a similar approach?
>>>
>>> Nat,
>>> 1995 320 "Natiki"
>>> San Diego
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> Chris Burti
>> Farmville, NC
>>
>