[C320-list] Spinnaker

[DianeFlr at aol.com]

what type of prop do you have?   last boat, I had a 3 blade flex  o fold, 
that I loved; but this yacht broker sold me on the Martec   FEATHERING, 3 
blade...  don't like it!  response time WAY too slow in  marinas.
 
competitor says to get a 2 blade flex o fold; but we had such good success  
in reverse with the 3 blade.....
 
any suggestions?  anyone out there have a USED one they want to sell  
cheap???  I"ll trade you...  the Martec was $3,000 !!  Geared  feathering prop....
 
Captain Diane  Fowler, GRI, CRS, e-PRO
Sellstate Priority Realty
_View  my other listings_ 
(http://reports.realtor.com/servlet/cc6?mgpNjkQYDWQAV9b6vGzge0x6weQ8wfVaVSSVzebG4w2aG0eb12bvE130eVolli://OOOQjLHtlhjQJhu/jLHtL
klHlLHnLglk/9b6vGqzgw4eG0q0LHtqGklHlLq8hgkmtlHglX8HiL+8hjHtXzgeXAWCT?9LMHmtl
2HI=6nLglepklpgnk2HIVf6bew3269zeG02b1G0b9VBDXSCWBTV69zeG02b1G0b9VAWCTV8312wf
G0b9VSYAYWV2068dbvEb9VyqSDBBTYCVXLX) 

CELL: 239- 850- 4935


_www.CapeCoralHomes.com_ (http://www.capecoralhomes.com/) 

check  out Smoky Mountain rental: www.VRBO.com/235062  

 
In a message dated 11/20/2013 9:42:43 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
dennybrowne at verizon.net writes:

We've  been racing in spinnaker class with modest success this year. Just
when we  think we have the spinnaker mastered, well, another lesson comes
along.  It's fun beyond words, and we usually don't draw blood or break
anything.  We do have some nice chips in the gelcoat from dropped pole,
dropped  winches.

I agree with all of Chris Burti's comments re the sail and  gear. I also
agree with attaching the turning blocks to the aft cleats, but  we attach
them to the bottom of the forward most tube on the stern pulpit  with no
problems. We use twings (or tweakers) to move the lead angle  forward,
particularly on the afterguy (the )side that controls the  tack/pole, and
choke it down more as the wind moves forward. Twings are  lightweight blocks
you run the spinnaker sheet through, and a line runs  from the block to the
deck so you can pull down on the sheet in the middle.  This provides a 
little
better sheeting angle on the pole, and keeps the  afterguy from applying
inward pressure on the stanchions. They're made to  resist outward pressure,
not inward pressure. On the sheet side, the twing  can keep the sheet from
chafing on the boom when running pretty  deep.

I like the idea of the folding padeyes directly outboard of the  primary
winches, and have the padeyes but haven't installed them yet. I  don't like
to drill holes in my boat, but this is really the best option.  From this
point, there is a clear lead to the primary or cabintop winches  for the 
spin
sheets and guys. The advantage of the cabintop option is that  the primary
winch can be used for the genoa sheet when setting up to round  the windward
or leeward mark. The disadvantage is that you may want a  halyard winch, but
frankly, you if you're winching up the genoa halyard in  anything but very
heavy air, you're likely over tensioning the luff and  shortening the life 
of
the sail. It also makes it a little tricky to trim  the main, as it also 
uses
the cabintop winches, but off the wind, the jam  cleats work fine. We're
going to try a new block and tackle mainsheet  system next year so the
winches aren't needed for the main.

On the  foredeck, I have a padeye that where I attach two blocks for a 
double
ended  foreuy. These are small blocks, as the load isn't high. Between them
is  another small block with snap shackle that attaches to the bottom bridle
on  the spinnaker pole. The two ends of the foreguy run aft along either  
side
of the cabin to cam cleats mounted on the side of the cabin at the aft  
edge,
inside the genoa tracks. You'll need a pole topping lift that exits  the 
mast
about 3/4 of the way up to keep the pole from falling on the  foreguy deck
guy's head. Doesn't always work, sometimes he gets whacked.  The foreguy is
cleated either at the mast or runs back to the cockpit. I  favor the former
but have the latter. If you have a dedicated crew to  handle the halyards,
topping lift and foreguy, he/she almost inevitably  gets in the way of the
main trimmer. If one crew has to do all that stuff,  something doesn't get
done at the right time and boats sail past  you.

Harvey Mudd College has an excellent  article
(http://www.hmc.edu/org/sailing/sailing-spinnaker.htm )on Spinnaker  
rigging,
hoisting, dousing and trimming. There are lots of others. You and  your crew
can read them all, memorize them and still screw it up when  you're rounding
a mark with other boats...

Try it, you'll love it!  And, you will never stop learning about it!

Denny Browne
A Cappella  #935

-----Original Message-----
From:  c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
[mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com]  On Behalf Of Diane Fowler
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2013 9:19 AM
To:  C320-List at Catalina320.com
Cc: c320-list at lists.catalina320.com
Subject:  [C320-list] Spinnaker

Just finished a 2 day regatta & have the bug  to try a spinnaker .  Who has
done this for racing?  2 more  wenches?  New track on main , what else?
What is that small track on  cabin top for?  Have snatch blocks ....  Friend
willing to sell  me his spin., pole , sheets & guys for $1200.  Good deal?
Help  appreciated.... Captain Diane ,  #948. Windy City 
Sent from my  iPhone

> On Nov 18, 2013, at 11:54 AM, JeffWillis111 at aol.com  wrote:
> 
> Hello All,
> 
> I have been a member for  over a year now and have never posted  before.  
> First let  say thanks to everyone for all the knowledge I have  gained 
> from  reading the discussion lists.
> 
> I have hull 174 and recently  replaced the circulating pump on the 
> Perkins M30.  Everything  seems to be up and running fine except for 
> the temperature  gauge.  I thought I had a good diagram of all wiring 
> and hoses  but I guess I goofed up on the temp sending unit that is 
> mounted in  the top of the circulating pump.  It is about a 1" diameter 
> with  3 screws on top with 2  wires connected.  I took photo  before
disassembling but found one of the  wires
> was  apparently not connected to anything when I removed the pump.    The
temp 
> gauge was working fine before I removed pump.  I  have tried  numerous 
> configurations when reconnecting but  nothing works.
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>  
> Thanks,
> 
> Jeff Willis
> Esprit,  #174