[C320-list] Spinnaker

Thu Nov 21 06:02:08 PST 2013

Martec 2 blade folder. I think it's the least expensive on the market, and
while I expected compromise, it's really been fine. Definitely doesn't back
as well as the 3 blade fixed that I replaced, but it's a small price to pay
for the clearly improved performance. Might have made as big a difference as
the new sails.

Denny Browne
A Cappella #935
Redondo Beach

-----Original Message-----
From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
[mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of
DianeFlr at aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2013 12:02 PM
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Spinnaker

what type of prop do you have?   last boat, I had a 3 blade flex  o fold, 
that I loved; but this yacht broker sold me on the Martec   FEATHERING, 3 
blade...  don't like it!  response time WAY too slow in  marinas.

competitor says to get a 2 blade flex o fold; but we had such good success
in reverse with the 3 blade.....

any suggestions?  anyone out there have a USED one they want to sell
cheap???  I"ll trade you...  the Martec was $3,000 !!  Geared  feathering
prop....

Captain Diane  Fowler, GRI, CRS, e-PRO
Sellstate Priority Realty
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CELL: 239- 850- 4935

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check  out Smoky Mountain rental: www.VRBO.com/235062  

In a message dated 11/20/2013 9:42:43 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
dennybrowne at verizon.net writes:

We've  been racing in spinnaker class with modest success this year. Just
when we  think we have the spinnaker mastered, well, another lesson comes
along.  It's fun beyond words, and we usually don't draw blood or break
anything.  We do have some nice chips in the gelcoat from dropped pole,
dropped  winches.

I agree with all of Chris Burti's comments re the sail and  gear. I also
agree with attaching the turning blocks to the aft cleats, but  we attach
them to the bottom of the forward most tube on the stern pulpit  with no
problems. We use twings (or tweakers) to move the lead angle  forward,
particularly on the afterguy (the )side that controls the  tack/pole, and
choke it down more as the wind moves forward. Twings are  lightweight blocks
you run the spinnaker sheet through, and a line runs  from the block to the
deck so you can pull down on the sheet in the middle.  This provides a
little better sheeting angle on the pole, and keeps the  afterguy from
applying inward pressure on the stanchions. They're made to  resist outward
pressure, not inward pressure. On the sheet side, the twing  can keep the
sheet from chafing on the boom when running pretty  deep.

I like the idea of the folding padeyes directly outboard of the  primary
winches, and have the padeyes but haven't installed them yet. I  don't like
to drill holes in my boat, but this is really the best option.  From this
point, there is a clear lead to the primary or cabintop winches  for the
spin sheets and guys. The advantage of the cabintop option is that  the
primary winch can be used for the genoa sheet when setting up to round  the
windward or leeward mark. The disadvantage is that you may want a  halyard
winch, but frankly, you if you're winching up the genoa halyard in  anything
but very heavy air, you're likely over tensioning the luff and  shortening
the life of the sail. It also makes it a little tricky to trim  the main, as
it also uses the cabintop winches, but off the wind, the jam  cleats work
fine. We're going to try a new block and tackle mainsheet  system next year
so the winches aren't needed for the main.

On the  foredeck, I have a padeye that where I attach two blocks for a
double ended  foreuy. These are small blocks, as the load isn't high.
Between them is  another small block with snap shackle that attaches to the
bottom bridle on  the spinnaker pole. The two ends of the foreguy run aft
along either side of the cabin to cam cleats mounted on the side of the
cabin at the aft edge, inside the genoa tracks. You'll need a pole topping
lift that exits  the mast about 3/4 of the way up to keep the pole from
falling on the  foreguy deck guy's head. Doesn't always work, sometimes he
gets whacked.  The foreguy is cleated either at the mast or runs back to the
cockpit. I  favor the former but have the latter. If you have a dedicated
crew to  handle the halyards, topping lift and foreguy, he/she almost
inevitably  gets in the way of the main trimmer. If one crew has to do all
that stuff,  something doesn't get done at the right time and boats sail
past  you.

Harvey Mudd College has an excellent  article
(http://www.hmc.edu/org/sailing/sailing-spinnaker.htm )on Spinnaker rigging,
hoisting, dousing and trimming. There are lots of others. You and  your crew
can read them all, memorize them and still screw it up when  you're rounding
a mark with other boats...

Try it, you'll love it!  And, you will never stop learning about it!

Denny Browne
A Cappella  #935

-----Original Message-----
From:  c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
[mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com]  On Behalf Of Diane Fowler
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2013 9:19 AM
To:  C320-List at Catalina320.com
Cc: c320-list at lists.catalina320.com
Subject:  [C320-list] Spinnaker

Just finished a 2 day regatta & have the bug  to try a spinnaker .  Who has
done this for racing?  2 more  wenches?  New track on main , what else?
What is that small track on  cabin top for?  Have snatch blocks ....  Friend
willing to sell  me his spin., pole , sheets & guys for $1200.  Good deal?
Help  appreciated.... Captain Diane ,  #948. Windy City Sent from my  iPhone

> On Nov 18, 2013, at 11:54 AM, JeffWillis111 at aol.com  wrote:
> 
> Hello All,
> 
> I have been a member for  over a year now and have never posted  before.  
> First let  say thanks to everyone for all the knowledge I have  gained 
> from  reading the discussion lists.
> 
> I have hull 174 and recently  replaced the circulating pump on the 
> Perkins M30.  Everything  seems to be up and running fine except for 
> the temperature  gauge.  I thought I had a good diagram of all wiring 
> and hoses  but I guess I goofed up on the temp sending unit that is 
> mounted in  the top of the circulating pump.  It is about a 1" 
> diameter with  3 screws on top with 2  wires connected.  I took photo  
> before
disassembling but found one of the  wires
> was  apparently not connected to anything when I removed the pump.    The
temp 
> gauge was working fine before I removed pump.  I  have tried  numerous 
> configurations when reconnecting but  nothing works.
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>  
> Thanks,
> 
> Jeff Willis
> Esprit,  #174