[C320-list] Using bow cleats for mooring

Tue Dec 20 03:48:34 PST 2016

Thanks to all for the advice and suggestions - I now feel a lot happier about using the forward cleat(s) for this

Graeme

> On 20 Dec 2016, at 11:41, Jon Vez <jonvez at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> An easy way to keep the anchor from chafing a mooring line is to use a bungy cord. Attach one end to the shank hole where it is attached to the chain/rode and the other to your pulpit. This 'tucks' the anchor flukes up under the bow roller. Much quicker and easier than pulling and flipping. I use an 18" bungy with hooks on each end and works great!
> Just another option....
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: C320-list [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Troy Dunn
> Sent: Monday, December 19, 2016 9:59 PM
> To: C320-List at catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Using bow cleats for mooring
> 
> +1 on flipping the anchor upside down.   It admittedly looks a bit wonky,
> especially if you forget to flip it back and then have your boat hauled for winter...  ;)
> 
> Troy Dunn
> Wonky Dog
> Hull#514
> 
> On Monday, December 19, 2016, Freedman Arthur <saltyvet at mindspring.com>
> wrote:
> 
>> At my mooring ball I use a double pennant on my C310 with a claw anchor.
>> Before one particular forecasted severe storm, I removed the anchor.
>> Unfortunately, the wave action in the harbor caused marked severe  
>> pitching and swinging of the boat.  Bottom line was the anchor roller 
>> wore through both 3/4” pennants and the  was bent 45 degrees down from 
>> the force of the boats peanut catching on the roller.  The boat ended up on the beach and
>> spent the winter at the yacht yard being repaired.   Lesson learned is any
>> time there is forecasted  severe storm I re-rout the pennants through 
>> the anchor roller with chafe protection as well as securely tying the 
>> pennants to the roller.
>> 
>> Art Freedman
>> 
>> 
>> On Dec 19, 2016, at 3:24 PM, Jeff Hare <Catalina at thehares.com 
>> <javascript:;>> wrote:
>> 
>> Rather than remove the Anchor (which is a chore), we just pulled the 
>> anchor out it out enough to flip it over and put it back in the bow 
>> roller.  Then the flukes are pointed up and don't catch the pennant lines.
>> That's a lot easier to do than to remove the anchor and pull it on deck.
>> 
>> But normally when on a mooring ball,  we only use the Port side cleat 
>> because it is least likely to catch on the anchor during swing unless 
>> there is a tide/current/wind combination that makes the boat sit awkwardly.
>> When using double pennants, we nearly always flip the anchor upside 
>> down unless it's very calm.
>> 
>> -Jeff Hare
>> #809
>> 
>> PS:  Chris, your particular boat has had its anchor roller upgraded to 
>> the newer style which is longer than the ones originally installed on 
>> your hull # and earlier. So, those with hulls in the 400's or earlier, 
>> probably have the OEM short bow roller unless you specifically 
>> upgraded it.  Not sure if those are more or less susceptible having 
>> the mooring lines from the cleats catch on the anchor.
>> 
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: C320-list [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
>> <javascript:;>] On Behalf Of Chris Nichols
>> Sent: Monday, December 19, 2016 2:43 AM
>> To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
>> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Using bow cleats for mooring
>> 
>> Hi Scott,
>> A fellow Brit c320 owner here. I have used my bow cleats in exactly 
>> the manner you describe for years without negative consequence on a 
>> swinging mooring where the boat has been subject to some horrendous conditions.
>> 
>> A couple of thoughts
>> 1. Put leather chafing gear on the junk to protect it from the 
>> occasional twang from the tips of the anchor flukes (I have a boom 
>> bail on my anchor roller so removal of the anchor is a real chore). 
>> This can happen at the end of a swing with the right wave timing.
>> 
>> 2. I have no additional protection for my rail edge and you describe 
>> using adhesive SS. I would want to be really sure this did not create 
>> an additional chafe point e.g. If the edge of the metal got turned slightly.
>> 
>> All the best
>> Chris
>> (AmandaRose #476)
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On 19 Dec 2016, at 00:35, Scott Thompson <surprise at thompson87.com
>> <javascript:;>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I keep my 1999 320 on such a mooring using a single mooring pennant 
>>> led
>> to the port cleat. I use a 12 foot by 3/4 inch Yale mooring pennant.
>> Mooring on the starboard side causes problems with the anchor. I've 
>> had no problems through more than 12 years with this arrangement, 
>> including tropical storm force winds. I am in a sheltered creek so no 
>> significant wave action, tides or wakes. The bow cleats are less 
>> likely to fail than the mooring itself in my view.
>>> 
>>> The only issues that I've had were due to the hull bumping against 
>>> the
>> buoy, which has scratched the boot stripe.
>>> 
>>> Scott Thompson
>>> 
>>>> On Dec 18, 2016, at 7:05 PM, Graeme Clark <cg at skyflyer.co.uk
>> <javascript:;>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> My 1996 320, hull #366, has no bow fairleads, just the usual cleats
>> either side a couple of feet back from the bow.
>>>> 
>>>> Here in Britain it is very common  - but I believe less so in USA - 
>>>> to
>> have boats moored on a ‘swinging mooring’ rather than docked or ‘alongside’
>> in a marina.  This, for those that are unaware is large gauge chain 
>> connected to a heavy weight or block on the sea-bed. The chain is held 
>> up by a large floating buoy and a mooring strop or mooring chain is 
>> then connected to the top of the riser chain. The free end of this has 
>> a small “pickup” buoy attached.
>>>> 
>>>> Until now I have been using the mooring chain by removing the 
>>>> anchor
>> and leading the chain over the anchor roller to the large central bow 
>> cleat. It works well but has two problems. It can be a pain to remove 
>> the anchor and stow it (it has to be taken aft as insufficient room in 
>> anchor locker), and it is easy to get fingers trapped when threading 
>> chain over the bow roller, especially if the sea is a bit choppy . 
>> Also the rusty chain leaves stains on the deck.
>>>> 
>>>> Instead of mooring chain, I am therefore considering having a 
>>>> double
>> rope strop made up, to lead either side of the bow to the two bow 
>> cleats, having a soft spliced eye at the cleat end and a hard eye at 
>> the riser chain end. I envisage using some of the self-adhesive thin 
>> stainless steel sheet to protect the edge of the deck where the line might chafe.
>>>> 
>>>> The real question though is whether these cleats are up to the load 
>>>> -
>> compared to the large central cleat.  i think they must be as they 
>> are, after all, what is used to secure the boat alongside in a dock or 
>> marina berth. On the other hand the swinging moorings are a little 
>> further off shore from the marina and have less shelter so a strong 
>> gale and choppy seas might put quite a strain on them.
>>>> 
>>>> I’d be interested to hear of other owners who have used or do use
>> similar mooring techniques and any alternative recommendations.
>>>> 
>>>> Thanks
>>>> 
>>>> Graeme
>>>> 
>>>> ———————————————————
>>>> I work irregular hours and often write emails late in the evening 
>>>> and
>> at weekends; that doesn’t mean I expect you to do the same; reply when 
>> convenient!
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Arthur Freedman, DVM
>> Hawthorne Animal Health Care
>> 978-741-2300
>> saltyvet at mindspring.com <javascript:;>
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
> 

———————————————————
I work irregular hours and often write emails late in the evening and at weekends; that doesn’t mean I expect you to do the same; reply when convenient!