[C320-list] C320-list Digest, Vol 2931, Issue 1: 1. Throttle issue (Onat Dogruer)

Danny Jensen danny at jensenshouse.com
Thu Jul 6 07:57:11 PDT 2017


I have commented on this subject before so I hope you all don't mind my 
re-post on this subject. My impression is that mufflers need to be replaced 
proactively every 10 years along with mixing elbows. This is cheap 
insurance because you will float your floorboards and get soot inside your 
boat. It is ugly. Just pay the $375 for a new muffler and save yourself the 
aggravation. 

Here are the details of my mixing elbow / aqua lift muffler replacement 
project. 

I have about 500 hours on a 2004 C320 with a Yanmar 3GM30F-YEU. The 
mechanic recommended I change the mixing elbow in the next 12 months.  The 
U Mixing Elbow inside was corroded at the point where the raw cool raw 
water mixes with exhaust. The riser appeared to be in good shape but the 
two parts looked to be bonded together and my mechanic told me to replace 
the entire assembly Elbow, riser and join. I read several owners accounts 
of failed mixing elbows and mufflers / muffler repairs. The lead time to 
get a muffler from Catalina was estimated to be 2 months.  The general 
consensus was to replace the muffler after about 10 years. Mufflers seem to 
fail mostly near the screw holes in the corners. Some owners think this is 
due to vibration from the engine exhaust hose. I used Jeff Hares rule and 
decided to replace the muffler on my schedule instead of the boats schedule 
especially because of  the 2 month lead time for the muffler. The cost of 
the muffler from Catalina was $374. 

I contacted Ken Roy at Catalina and gave him my hull number and some 
pictures and dimensions of my existing muffler (it is for sale now). Ken 
asked for some more dimensions. Ken sent me back a picture of the muffler 
he proposed to make for me and requested payment. It took about 2 months 
total to get the muffler. 
I ordered the gasket, mixing elbow, SS joint and riser exhaust from 
Bayshore Marine(see below). Next, I considered the muffler vibration issue. 
Some owners felt that a hump hose would isolate the vibration from the 
engine to the muffler.  The existing wet exhaust hose connecting mixing 
elbow to muffler input was a 22 inch 2 in. id.  I decided replace with 2 
hose segments of more flexible trident corrugated exhaust hose joined 
together with an exhaust hump hose I purchased from Catalina Direct. 

Here are the details. The procedure took about 3.5 hours including driving 
home once. 

1.        I turned off the raw water thru hull,  disconnected the 3/8 hose 
connection at the elbow, the 4 riser exhaust bolts came off with no 
problem. Then I disconnected the elbow from the 2 in. exhaust hose. I used 
a radiator hose pick to remove the hoses. They came right off with no 
problem. Don’t sweat removing the hoses. 

2.        I took the old elbow assembly home where I used it for reference 
to create the new assembly using a vise. I don’t believe you can create the 
new assembly without the help of a vise and 2 large adjustable 15 in 
wrenches. Don’t try to make the new assembly on your boat! You will need to 
twist the 3/8 in input 180 degrees then you will need to create the exact 
same angle as the old elbow by threading the joint into the elbow and 
exhaust riser. I used high temperature anti seize on the joint threads 
before assembly. 

3.        I used a gasket scraper to easily remove the old gasket. Then I 
applied some high temp gasket seating material to both sides of the new 
gasket and bolted the elbow assembly to the motor. 

4.        I removed the 4 stainless screws securing the muffler to the boat 
and I removed the output exhaust hose from the old muffler using the 
radiator hose pick. The hoses come off the muffler without any problem. 
The muffler comes out of the boat without any problem. 

5.        I put the new muffler in place and connected the output exhaust 
hose without any issues. I found the screw holes on the new muffler did not 
match the screw holes on the muffler.  I could get the 2 screw holes 
forward to line up but then the aft screw holes with not align with the 
existing holes. Access to the forward inboard screw is somewhat limited so 
you will want to match the forward inboard screw with the existing hole 
then use a drill motor to self tap new holes with the muffler in place. The 
existing self tapping screws were in good shape and I did not need to drill 
pilot holes, I just drove the screws into the glass with the muffler in 
place after I screwed down the forward screws. Apply a good amount of 
silicon grease to the muffler drain. 

6.        I used a sawzall to cut an 8 in and 13 in segment of corrugated 
exhaust hose then I joined them with a hump hose using double hose clamps 
on each side of the hump hose. Then I connected the hose to the mixing 
elbow and the input side of the muffler. 

7.        I turned on the thru hull and ran the engine. White fiberglass 
chips from the new muffler were spitting out the exhaust for a while. No 
leaks. The hump hose appeared to do the job limiting vibration. I left the 
rear engine cover off and took the boat out in open water and ran the motor 
up 3000 RPM. I went below and to my surprise I saw smoke coming from the 
exhaust riser side of the stainless steel joint nut!  No water. It appeared 
that the joint was oozing and burning anti-seize.  After about 10 minutes 
this smoking stopped.  I’m assuming this is normal but it spooked me. I’m 
going to put a co2 monitor in the aft cabin to make sure I don’t have gas 
leaks. 

Parts: 
bayshore marine: 
128370-13201 gasket     $4.92 
124070-13520 U mixing elbow    $169.33 
128370-13610 riser exhaust     $130.39 
104214-13580 joint                 $28.79 
Note: 
27233-250000 plug            comes with 124070-13610 
124070-13300 elbow 3/8    comes with 124070-13610 

Parts from Catalina Yachts (K... at catalinayachts.com) 
1 Muffler $374 plus Shipping 

Parts from Catalina direct: 
High Temp Anti-Seize Compound (#Z2858): 1 
Item Total: $15.95 
Exhaust Hump Hose 1-5/8"I.D X 6" (#Z2152): 1 
Item Total: $31.49 

Tools Harbor Freight 
8" Radiator Hose Pick $3.99 
Carbon/Gasket Scraper $2.99 
High Temp Gasket seating compound 

MMI Marine 
TRI252-2004 
TRIDENT CORRUGATED FLEX SAE J2006 MARINE WET EXHAUST HOSE (HARD WALL WITH 
WIRE)  - 2 Feet  $15.00 
BUA70HSS36C 
BUCK HOSE CLAMPS S/S FROM 1 13/16" TO 2 3/4"        4 $8.00 

Danny Jensen 
A BOA VIDA 
Hull 972 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 6, 2017, at 7:39 AM, Gus Macdonald <rathlyn1 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Many thanks Doug.  A very good article.  My boat has always been in fish water, so maybe the water injection point is not an issue but the exhaust could possibly need inspection.
> 
> Gus
> Hull #999
> Lindisfarne
>> On Jul 6, 2017, at 8:26 AM, Doug Treff <doug at treff.us> wrote:
>> 
>> http://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/maintaining-your-diesel-exhaust/
>> 
>> Everything you need to know about this topic...
>> 
>> --
>> Doug Treff
>> September Song #350
>> doug at treff.us
>> 
>>> On Thu, Jul 6, 2017, at 07:51 AM, Gus Macdonald wrote:
>>> Can you please describe the location of the exhaust elbow and the
>>> procedure for inspection and cleaning. 
>>> 
>>> Gus
>>> Hull # 999
>>>> On Jul 5, 2017, at 4:51 PM, Daniel Enright <enrightd at cox.net> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> You have a clogged (mixing elbow) exhaust elbow.  I had the same issue last
>>>> week.
>>>> 
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: C320-list [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf
>>>> Of c320-list-request at lists.catalina320.com
>>>> Sent: Tuesday, July 4, 2017 12:13 PM
>>>> To: c320-list at lists.catalina320.com
>>>> Subject: C320-list Digest, Vol 2931, Issue 1
>>>> 
>>>> Send C320-list mailing list submissions to
>>>>    c320-list at lists.catalina320.com
>>>> 
>>>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the Web browser, visit
>>>>    http://lists.catalina320.com/listinfo.cgi/c320-list-catalina320.com
>>>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>>>>    c320-list-request at lists.catalina320.com
>>>> 
>>>> You can reach the person managing the list at
>>>>    c320-list-owner at lists.catalina320.com
>>>> 
>>>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than
>>>> "Re: Contents of C320-list digest..."
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Today's Topics:
>>>> 
>>>> 1. Throttle issue (Onat Dogruer)
>>>> 2. Fuel sending gauge (Jeffrey Brown)
>>>> 3. Re: Fuel sending gauge (Graeme Clark)
>>>> 4. Re: Fuel sending gauge (Jeffrey Brown)
>>>> 5. Re: Fuel sending gauge (Rick Sulewski)
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>> 
>>>> Message: 1
>>>> Date: Mon, 03 Jul 2017 17:43:59 -0400
>>>> From: Onat Dogruer <onat_s at yahoo.com>
>>>> To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
>>>> Subject: [C320-list] Throttle issue
>>>> Message-ID: <636330.17839.bm at smtp221.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
>>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>>>> 
>>>> Hello all,
>>>> We have the Yanmar 3GM30F(EU) on our 1998 and this weekend I noticed a
>>>> problem with throttle. There is no RPM pick up once I pass 2200 and then
>>>> when I push the trottle all the way, it only pushes out 2860 rpm. I first
>>>> thought the cable was slipping so I checked both the helm arm and on
>>>> governor arm side connections. It looks normal. I then tried it in neutral
>>>> and noticed that I can get full 3660 rpm on neutral (checked with a laser
>>>> tachometer) Went out for a short cruise and again noticed that I can't get
>>>> more than 2800 in Forward.?
>>>> Also fuel looks clean. I am going to change the fuel filter regardless. The
>>>> issue seem to be only when we are on forward which doesn't make any sense.
>>>> What am I missing here? Any thoughts?
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>>>> 
>>>> ------------------------------
>>>> 
>>>> Message: 2
>>>> Date: Tue, 04 Jul 2017 09:04:47 -0700
>>>> From: Jeffrey Brown <oceanblues at mac.com>
>>>> To: Catalina C320 List List <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
>>>> Subject: [C320-list] Fuel sending gauge
>>>> Message-ID: <C73C60D1-1A9C-4994-9B86-F95B9276719A at mac.com>
>>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>>>> 
>>>> I'm hull 78 and wondering if anyone near my hull number replaced their fuel
>>>> sending gauge without pulling out the tank. One of the bolts is hard to get
>>>> to. Just wondering before I begin removal of the tank. I'm even considering
>>>> replacing the whole tank if I'm going to this much work. Any thoughts?
>>>> 
>>>> Jeff Brown
>>>> 949-350-5123
>>>> 
>>>> ------------------------------
>>>> 
>>>> Message: 3
>>>> Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2017 17:07:21 +0100
>>>> From: Graeme Clark <cg at skyflyer.co.uk>
>>>> To: Catalina list <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
>>>> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Fuel sending gauge
>>>> Message-ID: <3D7DA3F2-4951-4FC6-A498-33EB97F9E445 at skyflyer.co.uk>
>>>> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset=utf-8
>>>> 
>>>> Jeff
>>>> 
>>>> Have you removed the two wooden floor pieces above the tank. It?s fiddly but
>>>> it can be done.
>>>> 
>>>> Graeme
>>>> 
>>>>> On 4 Jul 2017, at 17:04, Jeffrey Brown <oceanblues at mac.com> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> I'm hull 78 and wondering if anyone near my hull number replaced their
>>>> fuel sending gauge without pulling out the tank. One of the bolts is hard to
>>>> get to. Just wondering before I begin removal of the tank. I'm even
>>>> considering replacing the whole tank if I'm going to this much work. Any
>>>> thoughts?
>>>>> 
>>>>> Jeff Brown
>>>>> 949-350-5123
>>>> 
>>>> ???????????????????
>>>> I work irregular hours and often write emails late in the evening and at
>>>> weekends; that doesn?t mean I expect you to do the same; reply when
>>>> convenient!
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> ------------------------------
>>>> 
>>>> Message: 4
>>>> Date: Tue, 04 Jul 2017 09:10:54 -0700
>>>> From: Jeffrey Brown <oceanblues at mac.com>
>>>> To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
>>>> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Fuel sending gauge
>>>> Message-ID: <35F8B40F-BF3F-44FF-9549-D559FC579426 at mac.com>
>>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>>>> 
>>>> Yes I did. The problem is one or two of the five bolts that hold the unit in
>>>> are underneath some fiberglass from the aft storage locker that comes out.
>>>> The space isn't sufficient to allow the bolt to be removed. I need to lift
>>>> the tank out a bit but that requires moving around a lot of stuff. 
>>>> 
>>>> Jeff Brown
>>>> 949-350-5123
>>>> 
>>>>> On Jul 4, 2017, at 9:07 AM, Graeme Clark <cg at skyflyer.co.uk> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> Jeff
>>>>> 
>>>>> Have you removed the two wooden floor pieces above the tank. It?s fiddly
>>>> but it can be done.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Graeme
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On 4 Jul 2017, at 17:04, Jeffrey Brown <oceanblues at mac.com> wrote:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> I'm hull 78 and wondering if anyone near my hull number replaced their
>>>> fuel sending gauge without pulling out the tank. One of the bolts is hard to
>>>> get to. Just wondering before I begin removal of the tank. I'm even
>>>> considering replacing the whole tank if I'm going to this much work. Any
>>>> thoughts?
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Jeff Brown
>>>>>> 949-350-5123
>>>>> 
>>>>> ???????????????????
>>>>> I work irregular hours and often write emails late in the evening and at
>>>> weekends; that doesn?t mean I expect you to do the same; reply when
>>>> convenient!
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> ------------------------------
>>>> 
>>>> Message: 5
>>>> Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2017 13:42:10 -0400
>>>> From: "Rick Sulewski" <rsulewski at bex.net>
>>>> To: <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
>>>> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Fuel sending gauge
>>>> Message-ID: <000401d2f4ec$dd5c0420$98140c60$@bex.net>
>>>> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="utf-8"
>>>> 
>>>> Jeff,  Early 320 hulls had the thinner walled fuel tanks that are more prone
>>>> to leaking over time. It is not a matter of if an aging aluminum tank will
>>>> leak, but when. Cleaning up the fuel after a leaking tank or even from a
>>>> replacement fuel tank sensor, is a real pain. Even a small amount of the
>>>> fuel will find its way under the hull liner and move about requiring
>>>> repeating some multi-step processes to get out all of the fuel and the
>>>> odors. Imagine discovering a large amount of fuel under the liner....   I
>>>> replaced my tank on hull #277 tank after having a fuel sender leak on my
>>>> topped off tank over a winter storage period. I found the tank replacement
>>>> to be much less work than cleaning up the leaked fuel. I did not want to
>>>> repeat the fuel cleaning process when  my tank finally failed (with my luck
>>>> would occur over a storage season). You can save yourself a lot of work if
>>>> you can find your way to replace the tank earlier than later. I also
>>>> replaced the fuel hoses from the tank
>>>> to the engine when I replaced the tank to ensure the next likely leak
>>>> source was addressed. As our 320 hulls age, there are some predictable
>>>> preventative maintenance schedules that could be gleaned from this owner
>>>> list to avoid sailing season interruptions and avoid predictable problems.
>>>> Replacing an aging original fuel tank on early hulls that had thin walled
>>>> tanks is one such preventative maintenance task that will improve your
>>>> vessel's condition, rather than waiting for a predictable failure!
>>>> 
>>>> If you really want to take your chances on your older tank given your hull
>>>> #, you can hang upside down from the aft corner locker (after removing the
>>>> lid)  and then go about replacing the fuel sender. You will need to remove
>>>> the wooden shelf pieces above the tank and then find the correct tools to
>>>> reach/replace all of the sender screws. Just as a precaution, I suggest that
>>>> you consider applying some  fuel resistant sealant paste, (like from NAPA -
>>>> white, that is used when installing a fuel fitting) and paint (goo-up) the
>>>> replaced fuel gauge sender unit AFTER it is installed. Be sure to heavily
>>>> coat all areas of the sender, including all of the screws and around the
>>>> gasket, but  only after installing the fuel sender and only after checking
>>>> that your fuel gauge is working to ensure you have properly re-attached all
>>>> of the wires and connectors.  The sealant will help to keep fuel from ever
>>>> leaking from fuel sender gasket edges and from screws securing the sender,
>>>> all potential l  eak areas as l I learned. I applied the sealant to a
>>>> leaking sender and that solved my leak problem for one season before finally
>>>> determined it was time to avoid another fuel clean-up and just replace the
>>>> tank at the end of the season after I had used up most all of the fuel
>>>> leaving me with a nearly empty tank.  If you decide to replace the tank, be
>>>> sure to order an access port for about $65, so you can more easily clean up
>>>> the tank by hand if ever necessary or simply access the tank to pump out
>>>> about a half-gallon of the dirty fuel gunk and water that will settle to the
>>>> bottom after about every 3-5 years.
>>>> Rick Sulewski
>>>> C320 95' Hull # 277 
>>>> 
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: C320-list [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf
>>>> Of Jeffrey Brown
>>>> Sent: Tuesday, July 04, 2017 12:11 PM
>>>> To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
>>>> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Fuel sending gauge
>>>> 
>>>> Yes I did. The problem is one or two of the five bolts that hold the unit in
>>>> are underneath some fiberglass from the aft storage locker that comes out.
>>>> The space isn't sufficient to allow the bolt to be removed. I need to lift
>>>> the tank out a bit but that requires moving around a lot of stuff. 
>>>> 
>>>> Jeff Brown
>>>> 949-350-5123
>>>> 
>>>>> On Jul 4, 2017, at 9:07 AM, Graeme Clark <cg at skyflyer.co.uk> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> Jeff
>>>>> 
>>>>> Have you removed the two wooden floor pieces above the tank. It?s fiddly
>>>> but it can be done.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Graeme
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On 4 Jul 2017, at 17:04, Jeffrey Brown <oceanblues at mac.com> wrote:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> I'm hull 78 and wondering if anyone near my hull number replaced their
>>>> fuel sending gauge without pulling out the tank. One of the bolts is hard to
>>>> get to. Just wondering before I begin removal of the tank. I'm even
>>>> considering replacing the whole tank if I'm going to this much work. Any
>>>> thoughts?
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Jeff Brown
>>>>>> 949-350-5123
>>>>> 
>>>>> ???????????????????
>>>>> I work irregular hours and often write emails late in the evening and at
>>>> weekends; that doesn?t mean I expect you to do the same; reply when
>>>> convenient!
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> End of C320-list Digest, Vol 2931, Issue 1
>>>> ******************************************
>>>> 
>>> 
> 


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