[C320-list] C320-list Digest, Vol 2931, Issue 1: 1. Throttle issue (Onat Dogruer)

Gus Macdonald rathlyn1 at gmail.com
Sat Jul 8 09:11:00 PDT 2017


Thx Danny, a great post.  I have the same engine in a 2004 model, Hull #999 with 350 hrs, so not far behind you.

Gus

> On Jul 6, 2017, at 10:57 AM, Danny Jensen <danny at jensenshouse.com> wrote:
> 
> I have commented on this subject before so I hope you all don't mind my 
> re-post on this subject. My impression is that mufflers need to be replaced 
> proactively every 10 years along with mixing elbows. This is cheap 
> insurance because you will float your floorboards and get soot inside your 
> boat. It is ugly. Just pay the $375 for a new muffler and save yourself the 
> aggravation. 
> 
> Here are the details of my mixing elbow / aqua lift muffler replacement 
> project. 
> 
> I have about 500 hours on a 2004 C320 with a Yanmar 3GM30F-YEU. The 
> mechanic recommended I change the mixing elbow in the next 12 months.  The 
> U Mixing Elbow inside was corroded at the point where the raw cool raw 
> water mixes with exhaust. The riser appeared to be in good shape but the 
> two parts looked to be bonded together and my mechanic told me to replace 
> the entire assembly Elbow, riser and join. I read several owners accounts 
> of failed mixing elbows and mufflers / muffler repairs. The lead time to 
> get a muffler from Catalina was estimated to be 2 months.  The general 
> consensus was to replace the muffler after about 10 years. Mufflers seem to 
> fail mostly near the screw holes in the corners. Some owners think this is 
> due to vibration from the engine exhaust hose. I used Jeff Hares rule and 
> decided to replace the muffler on my schedule instead of the boats schedule 
> especially because of  the 2 month lead time for the muffler. The cost of 
> the muffler from Catalina was $374. 
> 
> I contacted Ken Roy at Catalina and gave him my hull number and some 
> pictures and dimensions of my existing muffler (it is for sale now). Ken 
> asked for some more dimensions. Ken sent me back a picture of the muffler 
> he proposed to make for me and requested payment. It took about 2 months 
> total to get the muffler. 
> I ordered the gasket, mixing elbow, SS joint and riser exhaust from 
> Bayshore Marine(see below). Next, I considered the muffler vibration issue. 
> Some owners felt that a hump hose would isolate the vibration from the 
> engine to the muffler.  The existing wet exhaust hose connecting mixing 
> elbow to muffler input was a 22 inch 2 in. id.  I decided replace with 2 
> hose segments of more flexible trident corrugated exhaust hose joined 
> together with an exhaust hump hose I purchased from Catalina Direct. 
> 
> Here are the details. The procedure took about 3.5 hours including driving 
> home once. 
> 
> 1.        I turned off the raw water thru hull,  disconnected the 3/8 hose 
> connection at the elbow, the 4 riser exhaust bolts came off with no 
> problem. Then I disconnected the elbow from the 2 in. exhaust hose. I used 
> a radiator hose pick to remove the hoses. They came right off with no 
> problem. Don’t sweat removing the hoses. 
> 
> 2.        I took the old elbow assembly home where I used it for reference 
> to create the new assembly using a vise. I don’t believe you can create the 
> new assembly without the help of a vise and 2 large adjustable 15 in 
> wrenches. Don’t try to make the new assembly on your boat! You will need to 
> twist the 3/8 in input 180 degrees then you will need to create the exact 
> same angle as the old elbow by threading the joint into the elbow and 
> exhaust riser. I used high temperature anti seize on the joint threads 
> before assembly. 
> 
> 3.        I used a gasket scraper to easily remove the old gasket. Then I 
> applied some high temp gasket seating material to both sides of the new 
> gasket and bolted the elbow assembly to the motor. 
> 
> 4.        I removed the 4 stainless screws securing the muffler to the boat 
> and I removed the output exhaust hose from the old muffler using the 
> radiator hose pick. The hoses come off the muffler without any problem. 
> The muffler comes out of the boat without any problem. 
> 
> 5.        I put the new muffler in place and connected the output exhaust 
> hose without any issues. I found the screw holes on the new muffler did not 
> match the screw holes on the muffler.  I could get the 2 screw holes 
> forward to line up but then the aft screw holes with not align with the 
> existing holes. Access to the forward inboard screw is somewhat limited so 
> you will want to match the forward inboard screw with the existing hole 
> then use a drill motor to self tap new holes with the muffler in place. The 
> existing self tapping screws were in good shape and I did not need to drill 
> pilot holes, I just drove the screws into the glass with the muffler in 
> place after I screwed down the forward screws. Apply a good amount of 
> silicon grease to the muffler drain. 
> 
> 6.        I used a sawzall to cut an 8 in and 13 in segment of corrugated 
> exhaust hose then I joined them with a hump hose using double hose clamps 
> on each side of the hump hose. Then I connected the hose to the mixing 
> elbow and the input side of the muffler. 
> 
> 7.        I turned on the thru hull and ran the engine. White fiberglass 
> chips from the new muffler were spitting out the exhaust for a while. No 
> leaks. The hump hose appeared to do the job limiting vibration. I left the 
> rear engine cover off and took the boat out in open water and ran the motor 
> up 3000 RPM. I went below and to my surprise I saw smoke coming from the 
> exhaust riser side of the stainless steel joint nut!  No water. It appeared 
> that the joint was oozing and burning anti-seize.  After about 10 minutes 
> this smoking stopped.  I’m assuming this is normal but it spooked me. I’m 
> going to put a co2 monitor in the aft cabin to make sure I don’t have gas 
> leaks. 
> 
> Parts: 
> bayshore marine: 
> 128370-13201 gasket     $4.92 
> 124070-13520 U mixing elbow    $169.33 
> 128370-13610 riser exhaust     $130.39 
> 104214-13580 joint                 $28.79 
> Note: 
> 27233-250000 plug            comes with 124070-13610 
> 124070-13300 elbow 3/8    comes with 124070-13610 
> 
> Parts from Catalina Yachts (K... at catalinayachts.com) 
> 1 Muffler $374 plus Shipping 
> 
> Parts from Catalina direct: 
> High Temp Anti-Seize Compound (#Z2858): 1 
> Item Total: $15.95 
> Exhaust Hump Hose 1-5/8"I.D X 6" (#Z2152): 1 
> Item Total: $31.49 
> 
> Tools Harbor Freight 
> 8" Radiator Hose Pick $3.99 
> Carbon/Gasket Scraper $2.99 
> High Temp Gasket seating compound 
> 
> MMI Marine 
> TRI252-2004 
> TRIDENT CORRUGATED FLEX SAE J2006 MARINE WET EXHAUST HOSE (HARD WALL WITH 
> WIRE)  - 2 Feet  $15.00 
> BUA70HSS36C 
> BUCK HOSE CLAMPS S/S FROM 1 13/16" TO 2 3/4"        4 $8.00 
> 
> Danny Jensen 
> A BOA VIDA 
> Hull 972 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jul 6, 2017, at 7:39 AM, Gus Macdonald <rathlyn1 at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Many thanks Doug.  A very good article.  My boat has always been in fish water, so maybe the water injection point is not an issue but the exhaust could possibly need inspection.
>> 
>> Gus
>> Hull #999
>> Lindisfarne
>>> On Jul 6, 2017, at 8:26 AM, Doug Treff <doug at treff.us> wrote:
>>> 
>>> http://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/maintaining-your-diesel-exhaust/
>>> 
>>> Everything you need to know about this topic...
>>> 
>>> --
>>> Doug Treff
>>> September Song #350
>>> doug at treff.us
>>> 
>>>> On Thu, Jul 6, 2017, at 07:51 AM, Gus Macdonald wrote:
>>>> Can you please describe the location of the exhaust elbow and the
>>>> procedure for inspection and cleaning. 
>>>> 
>>>> Gus
>>>> Hull # 999
>>>>> On Jul 5, 2017, at 4:51 PM, Daniel Enright <enrightd at cox.net> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> You have a clogged (mixing elbow) exhaust elbow.  I had the same issue last
>>>>> week.
>>>>> 
>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>> From: C320-list [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf
>>>>> Of c320-list-request at lists.catalina320.com
>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, July 4, 2017 12:13 PM
>>>>> To: c320-list at lists.catalina320.com
>>>>> Subject: C320-list Digest, Vol 2931, Issue 1
>>>>> 
>>>>> Send C320-list mailing list submissions to
>>>>>   c320-list at lists.catalina320.com
>>>>> 
>>>>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the Web browser, visit
>>>>>   http://lists.catalina320.com/listinfo.cgi/c320-list-catalina320.com
>>>>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>>>>>   c320-list-request at lists.catalina320.com
>>>>> 
>>>>> You can reach the person managing the list at
>>>>>   c320-list-owner at lists.catalina320.com
>>>>> 
>>>>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than
>>>>> "Re: Contents of C320-list digest..."
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Today's Topics:
>>>>> 
>>>>> 1. Throttle issue (Onat Dogruer)
>>>>> 2. Fuel sending gauge (Jeffrey Brown)
>>>>> 3. Re: Fuel sending gauge (Graeme Clark)
>>>>> 4. Re: Fuel sending gauge (Jeffrey Brown)
>>>>> 5. Re: Fuel sending gauge (Rick Sulewski)
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>>> 
>>>>> Message: 1
>>>>> Date: Mon, 03 Jul 2017 17:43:59 -0400
>>>>> From: Onat Dogruer <onat_s at yahoo.com>
>>>>> To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
>>>>> Subject: [C320-list] Throttle issue
>>>>> Message-ID: <636330.17839.bm at smtp221.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
>>>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>>>>> 
>>>>> Hello all,
>>>>> We have the Yanmar 3GM30F(EU) on our 1998 and this weekend I noticed a
>>>>> problem with throttle. There is no RPM pick up once I pass 2200 and then
>>>>> when I push the trottle all the way, it only pushes out 2860 rpm. I first
>>>>> thought the cable was slipping so I checked both the helm arm and on
>>>>> governor arm side connections. It looks normal. I then tried it in neutral
>>>>> and noticed that I can get full 3660 rpm on neutral (checked with a laser
>>>>> tachometer) Went out for a short cruise and again noticed that I can't get
>>>>> more than 2800 in Forward.?
>>>>> Also fuel looks clean. I am going to change the fuel filter regardless. The
>>>>> issue seem to be only when we are on forward which doesn't make any sense.
>>>>> What am I missing here? Any thoughts?
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>>>>> 
>>>>> ------------------------------
>>>>> 
>>>>> Message: 2
>>>>> Date: Tue, 04 Jul 2017 09:04:47 -0700
>>>>> From: Jeffrey Brown <oceanblues at mac.com>
>>>>> To: Catalina C320 List List <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
>>>>> Subject: [C320-list] Fuel sending gauge
>>>>> Message-ID: <C73C60D1-1A9C-4994-9B86-F95B9276719A at mac.com>
>>>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>>>>> 
>>>>> I'm hull 78 and wondering if anyone near my hull number replaced their fuel
>>>>> sending gauge without pulling out the tank. One of the bolts is hard to get
>>>>> to. Just wondering before I begin removal of the tank. I'm even considering
>>>>> replacing the whole tank if I'm going to this much work. Any thoughts?
>>>>> 
>>>>> Jeff Brown
>>>>> 949-350-5123
>>>>> 
>>>>> ------------------------------
>>>>> 
>>>>> Message: 3
>>>>> Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2017 17:07:21 +0100
>>>>> From: Graeme Clark <cg at skyflyer.co.uk>
>>>>> To: Catalina list <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
>>>>> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Fuel sending gauge
>>>>> Message-ID: <3D7DA3F2-4951-4FC6-A498-33EB97F9E445 at skyflyer.co.uk>
>>>>> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset=utf-8
>>>>> 
>>>>> Jeff
>>>>> 
>>>>> Have you removed the two wooden floor pieces above the tank. It?s fiddly but
>>>>> it can be done.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Graeme
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On 4 Jul 2017, at 17:04, Jeffrey Brown <oceanblues at mac.com> wrote:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> I'm hull 78 and wondering if anyone near my hull number replaced their
>>>>> fuel sending gauge without pulling out the tank. One of the bolts is hard to
>>>>> get to. Just wondering before I begin removal of the tank. I'm even
>>>>> considering replacing the whole tank if I'm going to this much work. Any
>>>>> thoughts?
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Jeff Brown
>>>>>> 949-350-5123
>>>>> 
>>>>> ???????????????????
>>>>> I work irregular hours and often write emails late in the evening and at
>>>>> weekends; that doesn?t mean I expect you to do the same; reply when
>>>>> convenient!
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> ------------------------------
>>>>> 
>>>>> Message: 4
>>>>> Date: Tue, 04 Jul 2017 09:10:54 -0700
>>>>> From: Jeffrey Brown <oceanblues at mac.com>
>>>>> To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
>>>>> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Fuel sending gauge
>>>>> Message-ID: <35F8B40F-BF3F-44FF-9549-D559FC579426 at mac.com>
>>>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>>>>> 
>>>>> Yes I did. The problem is one or two of the five bolts that hold the unit in
>>>>> are underneath some fiberglass from the aft storage locker that comes out.
>>>>> The space isn't sufficient to allow the bolt to be removed. I need to lift
>>>>> the tank out a bit but that requires moving around a lot of stuff. 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Jeff Brown
>>>>> 949-350-5123
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Jul 4, 2017, at 9:07 AM, Graeme Clark <cg at skyflyer.co.uk> wrote:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Jeff
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Have you removed the two wooden floor pieces above the tank. It?s fiddly
>>>>> but it can be done.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Graeme
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> On 4 Jul 2017, at 17:04, Jeffrey Brown <oceanblues at mac.com> wrote:
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> I'm hull 78 and wondering if anyone near my hull number replaced their
>>>>> fuel sending gauge without pulling out the tank. One of the bolts is hard to
>>>>> get to. Just wondering before I begin removal of the tank. I'm even
>>>>> considering replacing the whole tank if I'm going to this much work. Any
>>>>> thoughts?
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Jeff Brown
>>>>>>> 949-350-5123
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> ???????????????????
>>>>>> I work irregular hours and often write emails late in the evening and at
>>>>> weekends; that doesn?t mean I expect you to do the same; reply when
>>>>> convenient!
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> ------------------------------
>>>>> 
>>>>> Message: 5
>>>>> Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2017 13:42:10 -0400
>>>>> From: "Rick Sulewski" <rsulewski at bex.net>
>>>>> To: <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
>>>>> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Fuel sending gauge
>>>>> Message-ID: <000401d2f4ec$dd5c0420$98140c60$@bex.net>
>>>>> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="utf-8"
>>>>> 
>>>>> Jeff,  Early 320 hulls had the thinner walled fuel tanks that are more prone
>>>>> to leaking over time. It is not a matter of if an aging aluminum tank will
>>>>> leak, but when. Cleaning up the fuel after a leaking tank or even from a
>>>>> replacement fuel tank sensor, is a real pain. Even a small amount of the
>>>>> fuel will find its way under the hull liner and move about requiring
>>>>> repeating some multi-step processes to get out all of the fuel and the
>>>>> odors. Imagine discovering a large amount of fuel under the liner....   I
>>>>> replaced my tank on hull #277 tank after having a fuel sender leak on my
>>>>> topped off tank over a winter storage period. I found the tank replacement
>>>>> to be much less work than cleaning up the leaked fuel. I did not want to
>>>>> repeat the fuel cleaning process when  my tank finally failed (with my luck
>>>>> would occur over a storage season). You can save yourself a lot of work if
>>>>> you can find your way to replace the tank earlier than later. I also
>>>>> replaced the fuel hoses from the tank
>>>>> to the engine when I replaced the tank to ensure the next likely leak
>>>>> source was addressed. As our 320 hulls age, there are some predictable
>>>>> preventative maintenance schedules that could be gleaned from this owner
>>>>> list to avoid sailing season interruptions and avoid predictable problems.
>>>>> Replacing an aging original fuel tank on early hulls that had thin walled
>>>>> tanks is one such preventative maintenance task that will improve your
>>>>> vessel's condition, rather than waiting for a predictable failure!
>>>>> 
>>>>> If you really want to take your chances on your older tank given your hull
>>>>> #, you can hang upside down from the aft corner locker (after removing the
>>>>> lid)  and then go about replacing the fuel sender. You will need to remove
>>>>> the wooden shelf pieces above the tank and then find the correct tools to
>>>>> reach/replace all of the sender screws. Just as a precaution, I suggest that
>>>>> you consider applying some  fuel resistant sealant paste, (like from NAPA -
>>>>> white, that is used when installing a fuel fitting) and paint (goo-up) the
>>>>> replaced fuel gauge sender unit AFTER it is installed. Be sure to heavily
>>>>> coat all areas of the sender, including all of the screws and around the
>>>>> gasket, but  only after installing the fuel sender and only after checking
>>>>> that your fuel gauge is working to ensure you have properly re-attached all
>>>>> of the wires and connectors.  The sealant will help to keep fuel from ever
>>>>> leaking from fuel sender gasket edges and from screws securing the sender,
>>>>> all potential l  eak areas as l I learned. I applied the sealant to a
>>>>> leaking sender and that solved my leak problem for one season before finally
>>>>> determined it was time to avoid another fuel clean-up and just replace the
>>>>> tank at the end of the season after I had used up most all of the fuel
>>>>> leaving me with a nearly empty tank.  If you decide to replace the tank, be
>>>>> sure to order an access port for about $65, so you can more easily clean up
>>>>> the tank by hand if ever necessary or simply access the tank to pump out
>>>>> about a half-gallon of the dirty fuel gunk and water that will settle to the
>>>>> bottom after about every 3-5 years.
>>>>> Rick Sulewski
>>>>> C320 95' Hull # 277 
>>>>> 
>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>> From: C320-list [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf
>>>>> Of Jeffrey Brown
>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, July 04, 2017 12:11 PM
>>>>> To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
>>>>> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Fuel sending gauge
>>>>> 
>>>>> Yes I did. The problem is one or two of the five bolts that hold the unit in
>>>>> are underneath some fiberglass from the aft storage locker that comes out.
>>>>> The space isn't sufficient to allow the bolt to be removed. I need to lift
>>>>> the tank out a bit but that requires moving around a lot of stuff. 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Jeff Brown
>>>>> 949-350-5123
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Jul 4, 2017, at 9:07 AM, Graeme Clark <cg at skyflyer.co.uk> wrote:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Jeff
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Have you removed the two wooden floor pieces above the tank. It?s fiddly
>>>>> but it can be done.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Graeme
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> On 4 Jul 2017, at 17:04, Jeffrey Brown <oceanblues at mac.com> wrote:
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> I'm hull 78 and wondering if anyone near my hull number replaced their
>>>>> fuel sending gauge without pulling out the tank. One of the bolts is hard to
>>>>> get to. Just wondering before I begin removal of the tank. I'm even
>>>>> considering replacing the whole tank if I'm going to this much work. Any
>>>>> thoughts?
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Jeff Brown
>>>>>>> 949-350-5123
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> ???????????????????
>>>>>> I work irregular hours and often write emails late in the evening and at
>>>>> weekends; that doesn?t mean I expect you to do the same; reply when
>>>>> convenient!
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> End of C320-list Digest, Vol 2931, Issue 1
>>>>> ******************************************
>>>>> 
>>>> 
>> 



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