[C320-list] Battery

[Jeffrey Brown]

Jack
Good points, we do keep water and fuel low and have a small starter battery should we drain the main. The dehumidifiers plug into the AC outlet but I believe also run through the inverter/charger unit. They work weather or not plugged into shore power. I know some models only have AC when plugged into shore power but mine doesn’t have any sort of bypass that I’m aware of. I agree on the ballast point as we all know our boats do list 2 degrees to port but that’s what I use my crew for. 

Jeff Brown
949-350-5123

> On Feb 10, 2019, at 9:31 AM, jackbrennan <jackbrennan at bellsouth.net> wrote:
> 
> Jeff:
> I presume you're running the dehumidifiers directly off an AC socket, which wouldn't touch the battery at all. No reason to run them off an inverter.
> The fridge pulls maybe 3 amps an hour when cold, so, no, that's not a huge draw 
> But carrying only one battery for weight reasons is false economy. If you want to get in racing trim, empty the water tanks.
> That's 400 pounds, as opposed to maybe 125 for a second battery.  Also, where the batteries are, you could argue they are ballast.
> The big risk for one battery is if it dies or you run it down. Then you're stuck. Better hope you're In cell phone range for BoatUS.
> Jack BrennanSonas, 1998 Catalina 320, no. 528Tierra Verde, Fl.Dolphin Cruising Club of Tampa Bay
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
> 
>  On Sun, Feb 10, 2019 at 11:40 AM, Jeffrey Brown<oceanblues at mac.com> wrote:   Guys
> I have a question about batteries. I keep only one battery for less weight. While connected to shore power I run the refrigerator and two dehumidifiers which I know suck a lot juice and run on AC. Although my charger/inverter is on shore power could I be putting so much load on one battery? If not, how can I test if I need a new charger/inverter?
> 
> I’m really good with the mechanical things but electric is not my expertise at all. 
> 
> Jeff Brown
> 949-350-5123
> 
>> On Feb 10, 2019, at 5:17 AM, Troy Dunn <troutwarrior at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Jeff-
>> 
>> You would probably have to provide a lot more information in order to give
>> you a correct answer.    Here is some general info you may already know
>> that might help you decide how to proceed.  If a battery lasted only 3
>> years on my boat I would be upset, but I go to significant effort to ensure
>> the batteries are well cared for since they are a fairly expensive
>> "consumable" on the boat.    Scroll to last paragraph for my recco on
>> battery if you are already a battery expert.
>> 
>> A decent FLA battery that was designed to be cycled at all will generally
>> last you between 3 and 7 years depending on how you use them.
>> A *true* deep cycle FLA battery should get you to the upper end of that
>> number (assuming no abuse), generally cost *less*, but will be difficult to
>> find in a 4D and require some reconfiguration if for instance you wanted to
>> changed to Trojan golf cart batteries. (not on your to do list I know).
>> FLA batteries are generally "more forgiving" of abuse than AGMs.
>> Abuse to batteries on a sailboat usually comes in a few common varieties.
>> 1. Consistently cycling the battery below 50% state of charge. (an amp
>> counter properly configured and maintained [easier said than done] can help
>> avoid this.  a true smart gauge is probably better [almost bullet proof])
>> 2. Consistently failing to achieve full charge after a cycle (e.g. cycling
>> between 50% and 80% SOC for days on end)
>> 3. Charging at too high a voltage (this is less common but can happen)
>> 4. Loss of electrolyte (aka battery acid)
>> 
>> Battery capacity (in amp hours) will degrade over time for all the
>> traditional battery types no matter how much you baby the battery.  Unless
>> you know the actual SOC (or at least have an accurate guess based on
>> counting amp hours used/topped up)  The effects of making the above
>> mistakes even just a few times have a compounding effect over time.    This
>> is generally because as owners we like to think that the capacity of OUR
>> batteries has not changed over time (denial and all that).  So...as they
>> ultimately lose capacity over time...the abuse becomes an accelerating
>> downward spiral.
>> 
>> If all of the above has already been factored into your thought process,
>> then East Penn makes an ok product for the money IF your choice is a dual
>> purpose FLA battery in a 4D case.  I am currently getting ready to replace
>> 2 of these dual purpose batteries and they were bought in 2012.  The
>> battery I use all the time for the house is on its last legs.  The backup
>> battery specific gravity is still perfect.  I've been plotting my upgrade
>> for almost a year now.  It won't look anything like I originally thought.
>> It won't be cheap either.
>> 
>> One last thought.... bring jumper cables!
>> 
>> Troy Dunn
>> S/V Wonky Dog
>> Hull #514
>> 
>>> On Sat, Feb 9, 2019 at 11:58 PM Jeffrey Brown <oceanblues at mac.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi everyone,
>>> I know there’s lots of threads on batteries and everyones opinion on what
>>> is best. I’m pleased with the 4D style battery and don’t want to
>>> reconfigure anything. I purchased a less expense $250 4D from the local RV
>>> store (I only use one since I race a bunch and don’t want the extra weight.
>>> They’ve only lasted about 3 years. I’m wondering what brand you suggest
>>> that will have a better life? Or perhaps cheap batteries for 3-years is a
>>> better value.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Jeff Brown
>>> "Out of the blue" Dana Point, CA
>>> Catalina 320, Hull 78
>>> (949) 350-5123
>>> oceanblues at mac.com
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>